Numerous waxes, polishes and finishing products are available for use. Always follow the manufacture label
and instructions. The solid wood surfaces should be cleaned weekly. Dust regularly with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Dampen the cloth slightly with water. Wipe one small area at a time and dry immediately. For stubborn stains,
use a clean cloth dampened with a solution of mild, non-alkaline soap (like dish washing liquid) and water. Dry
thoroughly using a soft cloth. Buff lightly, following the direction of the grain. Never use abrasive cleaners,
scouring pads or powdered cleansers.
Excessive dampness, dryness, heat, or cold can damage solid wood finishes. Sunlight can change the color or
age the wood. Never allow moisture or spills to stand. Always blot dry immediately. Solvents, alcohol, nail polish
and polish removers, as well as harsh cleaners should not be used on finished wood surfaces. Minor damage to
solid wood surfaces can be repaired quickly and effectively with a bit of hard work, some careful attention to
details, and most importantly, the right materials. However, any wood repair or finishing job is best left for a
professionally trained individual.
NOTE:
It is important to inform the service technician of any products used for the care and cleaning in the
event of wood repairs.
Sanding and Sandpaper:
The following table is a general guide to the proper uses, although this may vary
from wood type to type. The key to sanding is using the right sandpaper for the repair that is needed. Always sand
with the grain.
Steel Wool:
Abrasive material composed of long steel fibers of varying degrees of fineness that are matted
together. The coarser grades are used to remove paint and other finishes; the finer grades for polishing or
smoothing a finished surface.
Nail Holes and Small Cracks:
Fill nail holes and small cracks with wood putty or dough for unstained woods
prior to any sanding. Stained finishes require filling holes and cracks after the stain has been applied. Putty should
match the stain closely in color.
NOTE:
A little sawdust and wood glue can be used to make putty for end grains.
Fixing scratches in stained woodwork:
“Quick and simple” rarely describes repairs to stained wood finishes.
However, a few tricks can be tried. When scratches appear lighter than the surrounding dark-stained woodwork, it
usually means either that the scratch goes through the stain into the wood or that the varnish is flaking off.
Dents:
Dents are the results of wood fibers being crushed and compressed. Dents can be raised back to original
level by steam. To raise a dent, place a damp cloth over the dent and hold a medium-hot iron on it. The steam will
cause the wood fibers to swell back into place. It may be necessary to repeat this process until the dented area is
level with the surface. Allow the area to dry.
Restoring the clear finish:
Check the scratches carefully. If flaking varnish is visible with dark-stained wood
underneath, only the clear finish may need to be restored. Rub the loose varnish with fine steel wool or fine
synthetic steel wool until you have removed the flaking varnish and slightly roughened a small area of the finish
surrounding the scratch. With the tip of rag, a small brush, or even a cotton swab, apply a thin coat of a wipe-on
finish. Apply finish to the damaged area only. Several coats may be needed to hide the scratch.
gRIT
gRADe
USe
80-120
Medium
Smoothing the surface, removing small marks.
150-180
Fine
Final sanding prior to finishing.
220-240
Very Fine
Sanding between coats of sealing.
280-320
Extra Fine
Removing dust spots or mark between finish coats.
360-600
Super Fine
Removing luster or surface blemishes.
