1-3
Remove these three
screws at each end.
Remove these two screws
from the center supports.
Removing the Control Panel Frame and Top Cap Assembly
10.
Reconnect the wiring disconnected in step 7, referring to your notes and the wiring diagrams on
the fryer door to ensure that the connections are properly made. Also, verify that no other wiring
was disconnected accidentally during the replacement process.
11.
Reverse steps 1 through 8 to complete the replacement and return the fryer to service.
1.4 Replacing a High-Limit Thermostat
1.
Remove the filter pan and lid from the unit. Drain the frypots into a Shortening Disposal Unit
(SDU) or other appropriate
METAL
container using the controller “drain to pan option” or using
the MIB board in manual mode.
DANGER
DO NOT
drain more than one full frypot or two split frypots into the SDU at one time.
2.
Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply and reposition it to gain access to the rear of
the fryer.
3.
Remove the four screws from both the left and right sides of the lower back panel.
4.
Locate the high-limit that is being replaced and follow the two-black wires to the 12-pin connector
C-6. Note where the leads are connected prior to removing them from the connector. Unplug the
12-pin connector C-6 and using a pin-pusher push the pins of the high-limit out of the connector.
5.
Carefully unscrew the high-limit thermostat to be replaced.
6.
Apply Loctite
™
PST 567 or equivalent sealant to the threads of the replacement and screw it
securely into the frypot.
7.
Insert the leads into the 12-pin connector C-6 (see illustration below). For full-vat units or the left
half of a dual-vat unit (as viewed from the rear of the fryer) the leads go into positions 1 and 2 of
the connector. For the right half of a dual-vat unit (as viewed from the rear of the fryer), the leads
go into positions 7 and 8. In either case, polarity does not matter.
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