With your bike upside down, your wheel should be pushed all the way down into the
dropouts to make sure it’s a nice and tight fit. This is very important. If the dropouts are
not embedded firmly in the bottom of the drop out slots this could cause failure of the
dropouts or cause the electric hub axle to become unsecured.
Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350 in lbs). If you would like to install the torque arm on
the rear wheel, please see the manual for the Arc torque arm on the website.
Your rear derailleur and disk brake callipers can now by reinstalled if they were removed
prior to the installation of the rear wheel.
8
Wheel Install
Once you have installed the disk brake, loosen the axle nuts on the electric wheel. This
will allow the axle to slot into your dropouts. We are showing the most common way
that the fasteners/ washers can be arranged, but it is possible you will discover a more
suitable way to arrange them, depending on your bike and gear set layout. If you need
to space the rear dropouts further, you can use the washers and spacers provided. If the
you need more room on the gear set side, space the hub over with the washers provided,
or if you need to space the hub evenly over to the disk brake side, you can rearrange the
fasteners to achieve this.
The distance between your dropouts should be around approx. 135-140mm. Your rear
dropouts/chain stays will flex in and out a certain amount without causing any structural
issues. The dropout axle slots should be approx. 10mm however you may need to file off
a thin layer of paint for the axle to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to be a very
tight fit, so don’t stress if you need to remove a small amount of material, this is normal.
So long as the hub is orientated so that the freewheel thread side is on the chainwheel
side of the bike, it will rotate in the correct direction.