9
English
When Mitering to the Right
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the miter angle
when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest
mark on the miter scale to the left.
When Mitering to the Left
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the miter angle
when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest
mark on the miter scale to the right.
Cutting Base Molding
ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
Straight 90° Cuts (Fig. S)
Position the wood against the fence as shown in Figure S. Turn on the saw, allow the blade to
reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
Fig. S
Cutting Base Molding up to 3.5" (88.9 mm) High Vertically
Against The Fence (Fig. L, S)
Position molding as shown in Figure S.
All cuts are made with the back of the molding against the fence and bottom of the molding
against the base.
inside corner
Outside corner
Left side
1. Miter left 45°
2. Save left side of cut
1. Miter right 45°
2. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Miter right 45°
2. Save right side of cut
1. Miter left 45°
2. Save right side of cut
Material up to 3.5" (88.9 mm) can be cut as described above. For wider boards [up to 4.25"
(107.95 mm)] several minor concessions must be made.
When cutting a board between 3.5" (88.9 mm) and 4.25" (107.95 mm) in width the roller on the
tip of the guard could hang up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on
the upper side of the guard and roll the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in
Figure L. Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the guard and it will continue to
open as the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base molding wider than 3.5" (88.9 mm) standing vertically
against the fence as in Figure S, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1 inch (25,4 mm)
from the end of the board. Trying to cut more than 1 inch (25,4 mm) will cause the saw’s gear
case to interfere with the workpiece. If you want to cut base molding between 3–1/2" (88.9 mm)
and 4.25" (107.95 mm) wide vertically follow the directions below.
Cutting 3.5"–4-1/4" (88.9 mm–107.95 mm) Base Molding
Vertically Against the Fence (Fig. S)
• Position molding as shown in Figure S.
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence
inside corner
Outside corner
Left side*
1.
Position molding with bottom of molding
against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
1.
Position molding with bottom of molding
against the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Right side
1.
Position molding with bottom of the
molding resting on the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save right side of cut
1.
Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save right side of cut
*
NOTE:
If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" (25.4 mm) from the end of the molding: cut
off the molding at 90° approx. 1" (25.4 mm) longer than your final length then make the miter cut as
described above.
Another method of making the cut is to make a zero degree miter, 45° bevel cut. Your saw can
cut a bevel 6.2" (157.5 mm) wide.
Cutting Base Molding Laying Flat and Using the Bevel Feature
• All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
• All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw.
• Move the left side fence out of the path of the blade before attempting any of the
following cuts.
inside corner
Outside corner
Left side
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
2. Save left right of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Cutting Crown Molding
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In order
to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together,
equal exactly 90°. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat
against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38°.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter detent points at 31.62° left and right for cutting crown
molding at the proper angle. There is also a mark on the Bevel scale at 33.85°.
The
Bevel Setting/Type of Cut
chart gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The
numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on
your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90°, you will have to fine tune your
settings anyway.
PRETEsTing WiTh sCRAP MATERiAl is EX TREME lY iMPORTAnT!
For Cutting Crown Molding Laying Flat and Using the Compound
Features (Fig. T)
1. Move the left side fence
10
out of the path of the blade before attempting any of the
following cuts.
2. Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table
34
(Fig. T).
3. The settings below are for all Standard (U.S.) crown molding with 52° and 38° angles.
Fig. T
34
10
