18
English
CAUTION:
Always use a work clamp to maintain
control and reduce the risk of personal injury and
workpiece damage.
Use the material clamp (30) provided with your saw. The left or
right fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping. Other
aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be
appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material.
TO INSTALL CLAMP
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be
facing toward the back of the mitre saw. The groove on the
clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this
groove is fully inserted into the base of the mitre saw. If the
groove is visible, the clamp will not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180° toward the front of the mitre saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use
the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
NOTE:
Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when
beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE
FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE
THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF
THE SAW OR GUARDS.
Support for long pieces (fig. A5)
• Always support long pieces.
• For best results, use the extension work support (29) to
extend the table width of your saw (available from your
dealer as an option). Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as
saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from
dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided
projects (fig. P1 & P2)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop
a “feel” for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring
corners like the one shown in fig. P1. The joint shown has been
made using either bevel adjustment.
- Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing
a 90° corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The
wood is positioned with the broad flat side against the table and
the narrow edge against the fence.
- Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the
broad surface against the fence.
The two sketches (fig. P1 & P2) are for four side objects only. As
the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles.
The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes,
assuming that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is
not shown in the chart,
divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or
bevel angle.
No. of sides
Angle mitre or bevel
4
45°
5
36°
6
30°
7
25.7°
8
22.5°
9
20°
10
18°
Compound mitre (fig. Q1 & Q2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. P2)
and a bevel angle (fig. P1) at the same time. This is the type of
cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the
one shown in fig. Q1.
WARNING:
If the cutting angle varies from cut to
cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre
lock knob are securely tightened. These knobs must
be tightened after making any changes in bevel or
mitre (fig. Q1 & Q2).
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper
bevel and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts.
To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (fig. Q2) of your
project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the
chart. From that point follow the chart straight down to find
the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct
mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial
cuts.
• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles
(angle “A”) (fig. Q2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the
arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either
side to get the mitre angle setting on the saw (23°). Likewise
follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get
the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts on a
few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SA
W
ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")
SQUARE BOX
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
Содержание DW717XPS
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