Inspect the controller and junction box
1. Remove the screws from the bottom plate of the controller. Move the plate downward (or the
controller upward) to reveal the terminal block where the wires connect. (See Section 4.5.)
2. First, check for a burnt smell. This will indicate a failure of the electronics. Look for burnt wires,
bits of black debris, and any other signs of lightning damage.
3. Open the junction box. Is the Power IN switch turned ON? Pull on the wires to see if any of them
have come loose.
4. Inspect the grounding wires and connections. Most controller failures are caused by an induced
surge from nearby lightning where the system is NOT effectively grounded. Ground connections
must be properly made, tight, and free of corrosion. (See Section 4.2)
Check the low-water probe (See Section 5.4)
In most swimming pool installations, a low-water probe is not used. It’s connections must be
bypassed in the junction box.
Check the full-tank float switch (See Section 5.5)
In most swimming pool installations, a float switch is not used. It’s connections must be bypassed in
the junction box.
Force a quick start
If you restore a connection or bypass the probe or float switch, there is no need to wait for the
normal time delay. Switch the on/off switch (or the power source) off then on again. The pump
should start immediately if sufficient power is present.
9.3 Test The System
Test the solar array circuit
1. OPEN-CIRCUIT VOLTAGE You can do this easily by opening and switching off the array
disconnect switch. The reading should be 72-96V (with a 48V nominal array) or 55-72V (with 36V
nominal solar array). This should vary only slightly with solar intensity. This is merely “idle”
voltage. It is high because no current is being drawn (it sees no load).
2. VOLTAGE UNDER LOAD (with pump running) This should be 60-73V (with a 48V nominal
array) or 45-55V (with 36V nominal solar array). This should vary only slightly with solar intensity.
3. CURRENT UNDER LOAD Measuring current is the way to determine if the solar array’s output
is equal to its full potential. This requires either a DC clamp-on amp meter or a conventional
meter wired in series with the array circuit (by breaking or – connection and running the
circuit through the meter). The current is determined by both the array AND the load in the circuit
(the pump system). If the pump is not drawing full power, it will not draw full current.
4. SHORT CIRCUIT CURRENT and SPARK TEST This will give you an indication of the array
output independent of the pump system. This is helpful if the pump is trying to start or does not
seem to be getting full power. CAUTION DISCONNECT THE ARRAY from the controller
before making this test. Short-circuiting the array will not cause damage if it is done for a minute
or less. You can do this easily by switching off the array disconnect switch. You should see a blue
spark when short-circuiting the solar array exposed to sunshine. (Unlike other power generators,
a short circuit at the array will only cause current slightly higher than normal.) If you don’t have a
DC amp meter, a spark that can jump 1/4” (6 mm) indicates a good probability that the array is
working properly.
If power was connected to the controller with reverse polarity
Reverse polarity (+/–) at the controller’s POWER IN terminals will be blocked. No lights will show
on the controller. This will not cause damage.
Test the controller power output (measure AC voltage to pump)
1. Make these tests with the pump connected and the power turned on. Observe caution!
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