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Optional Presser Foot

• Elasticator Foot

–

This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the
garment and the amount of contraction of the
elastic tape can be adjusted as required.

• Blind stitch Foot

–

This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics, skirt
and trouser seams where seam should not be
visible.

• Gathering Foot

–

This foot is most suited for gathering when
sewing tiered skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on
skirts, etc.

–

This foot is also suited for sewing two fabrics
together and gathering the bottom fabric in one
operation.

• Beading/Sequins Foot

–

This foot is used for sewing on beads, etc.

• Piping Foot

–

This sewing foot is suited for sewing welting
between two plies of fabric.

• Ribbon–couching Foot

–

This sewing foot is suited for sewing on tapes,
etc.

Содержание Bernette Funlock b44

Страница 1: ...Instruction Manual ...

Страница 2: ......

Страница 3: ...lor Code 19 Threading the Upper Looper Blue 20 Threading the Lower Looper Red 21 Threading the Overlock Right Needle Green 23 Threading the Overlock Left Needle Yellow 24 HOW TO CHANGE THREADS 26 Tie on method 26 HOW TO ADJUST 27 Stitch lenght dial 27 Seam Width 27 The presser foot pressure 28 DIFFERENTIAL FEED 29 Gathered Overlock 1 2 0 29 Stretch Overlock 1 0 6 30 CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING 31...

Страница 4: ... sew Pin Tucks 45 How to turning Square Corners 46 MACHINE MAINTENANCE 48 Cleaning The Machine 48 Oiling The Machine 48 Replace the Upper Knife 49 OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES 50 Snap On Type Presser Foot 50 Optional Presser Foot 51 TROUBLESHOOTING 52 FABRIC THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART 53 SPECIFICATION 54 Technical Summary 54 ...

Страница 5: ...al authorized BERNINA dealer for examination or repair 4 Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked Keep ventilation openings of the machine free from the accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth 5 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing needle and the knife 6 Never insert any objects into any openings on the machine 7 Do not use the machine...

Страница 6: ... only This appliance may only be used by children over eight and by persons with reduced physical sensory or mental capabilities or by persons who lack experience and knowl edge of how to operate the machine under supervision after instruction on how to use the equipment safely and once they have under stood the potential dangers Children shall not play with the appliance Cleaning and user mainten...

Страница 7: ...ying handle Left needle thread tension dial yellow Right needle thread tension dial green Upper looper thread tension dial blue Lower looper thread tension dial red Spool pin Stitch plate Sewing table Looper cover Power Light switch Stitch length dial Handwheel Thread stand Spool stabilizer Cut offs Bin ...

Страница 8: ...8 17 18 19 20 21 Presser foot lifter Differential dial Cutting width dial Presser foot pressure regulator Standard presser foot Overlock ...

Страница 9: ...ll Tweezers Upper looper converter ULC Spool stabilizer 4x Dust cover Cut offs Bin This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle ELx705 that eliminates the possibility of inserting the needle backwards Do not attempt to use a standard household sewing machine needle of any size or type in this overlock Needle ELx705 size 80 12 is furnished with the machine Only use Needle ELx705 size 80 12 as ...

Страница 10: ...side to turn ON Push O mark side to turn OFF 1 Push the cover to the right as far as it will go 2 Pull cover down toward you CAUTION Be sure to turn off power switch CAUTION Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing CAUTION Use only foot controller provided with this machine Type 4C 316B for USA CANADA only Be sure to make reference to Warning on following Page Foot Controller To run the machine ...

Страница 11: ...e rated voltage of the motor Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles presser feet or when leaving the machine unattended This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the controller Replacement In...

Страница 12: ...l click into place when they are correctly positioned Center the retractable thread stand above the spool pins Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool pins Spool net When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the cone slip the spool net 1 furnished with the machine over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the top the spool net as shown at ...

Страница 13: ...r 2 toward counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position To place upper knife in working position Open looper cover Pull the upper knife holder 1 to the right as far as it will go Turn the holder 2 clockwise until the knife clicks into the working position 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 CAUTION Be sure to turn off power switch CAUTION Always close looper cover before operating machine ...

Страница 14: ...e eye of the upper looper converter 1 2 3 1 2 3 CAUTION Be sure to turn off power switch Disengage To Upper Looper When using the upper looper the upper looper converter must be disengaged To disengage the upper looper converter raise the handle 3 of upper looper according to picture STANDARD OVERLOCK AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING Sew Standard Overlock Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam width...

Страница 15: ...W TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES Needle Position With this machines two needles can be inserted to the needle clamp as shown in the drawing but The Instruction Book refers to different needle positions by illustrating the needle clamp at right B A 1 A B B A B A B PLEASE NOTE When both the left and right overlock needles are inserted the left needle will be slightly higher than the right A Left Needl...

Страница 16: ...e needles will remain in the fabric A Left needle LN B Right needle RN To Insert Needle s Hold the needle with the flat surface 1 to the back Insert the needle into the needle socket as far as it will go When inserting a needle if you first lower it down into the hole in the stitch plate it will line up with the needle socket Then direct it upwards B A 1 2 3 B A 1 2 3 B A B PLEASE NOTE Be sure to ...

Страница 17: ...edle position 35 7 3 Thread Narrow Seam 1 needle 3 thread stitch is for edging light weight fabrics For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with decorative thread and the needle and lower looper with light weight regular thread 41 8 3 Thread Rolled Hem 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for sewing narrow rolled hems 41 9 10 2 Thread Wrapped Overlock wide 2 Thread Wrapped Overlock narrow 1...

Страница 18: ...1 6 N 4 0 4 0 3 5 3 3 Thread Overlock wide 2 5 1 6 N 3 0 4 0 3 5 4 3 Thread Overlock narrow 2 5 1 6 N 4 0 4 0 4 0 5 3 Thread Flatlock wide 2 5 1 6 N 0 0 4 0 7 5 6 3 Thread Flatlock narrow 2 5 1 6 N 0 0 4 5 7 5 7 3 Thread Narrow Seam 1 5 1 5 R 4 0 5 0 4 5 8 3 Thread Rolled Hem 1 1 5 R 4 0 4 5 6 5 9 2 Thread Wrapped Overlock wide 2 5 1 6 N 2 5 3 0 10 2 Thread Wrapped Overlock narrow 2 5 1 6 N 4 5 3 ...

Страница 19: ...ad the machine in the order 1 4 as shown at left Tension Color Code Overlock Stitches 1 Upper looper thread Blue 2 Lower looper thread Red 3 Right needle thread Green 4 Left needle thread Yellow 5 Topside of fabric 6 Underside of fabric 2 1 4 3 1 2 5 6 4 3 2 1 4 3 1 2 5 6 4 3 PLEASE NOTE Threads go through the take up lever cover for Overlock as shown ...

Страница 20: ... power switch Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide 2 Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated While holding thread with fingers pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 ...

Страница 21: ...until it slips under guide 2 Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated Thread the looper area of the machine following the blue color coded thread guides 4 8 Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back 8 10cm 4 7 8 2 3 9 6 4 5 7 1 8 1 2 2 6 7 8 4 5 10cm 4 7 8 2 3 9 6 4 5 7 1 8 1 2 2 6 7 8 4 5 PLEASE NOTE Make sure thread passes behind lower looper Use tweezers provi...

Страница 22: ...r coded thread guides 4 9 Place the thread with the point of the tweezers slightly from left and to the right of threading guide 4 Thread the looper eye A from front to back Pull about 4 10 cm of thread Position thread into V cutout B on threader Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever C up into place D 3 9 6 4 5 7 8 5 6 7 4 C 9 8 D B A 3 3 9 6 4 5 7 8 5 6 7 4 C 9 8 D B A 3 ...

Страница 23: ... sure to turn off power switch Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide 2 Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated While holding thread with fingers pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the...

Страница 24: ...bottom of the needle clamp Thread the eye of the right needle 9 1 9 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 7 6 8 9 4 5 6 7 8 9 10cm 4 1 9 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 7 6 8 9 4 5 6 7 8 9 10cm 4 1 9 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 7 6 8 9 4 5 6 7 8 9 10cm 4 1 9 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 7 6 8 9 4 5 6 7 8 9 10cm 4 CAUTION Be sure to turn off power switch PLEASE NOTE Slip thread into the rear slot on the thread guide 5 and bottom slot of take up lever cover 6 Then slip...

Страница 25: ...read points 4 9 Before threading eye of needle slip thread behind thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp The position of the thread must be behind the thread guide Draw about 4 10 cm of thread through needle eye towards the rear of machine Place the thread to the back under the presser foot Thread the eye of the left needle 9 PLEASE NOTE Slip thread into the rear slot on the thread...

Страница 26: ...ngth If clipped too short threads may come untied Firmly pull both thread to test knot security Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs Pull the threads through the machine one at a time If threads do not pull easily check for tangles on thread guides or looping under thread stand When pulling thread through the needles STOP when the knot is in front of the needle Cut the thread and insert it ...

Страница 27: ...when sewing heavy weight fabrics Adjust the stitch length to 2 5 1 when sewing light weight fabrics to obtain excellent seams without puckering Overlock seam width can be achieved by repositioning the needle position and also with the width adjustment knob Width adjustment by changing needle position Overlock seam width can be adjusted by changing the needle position a When using left needle 6 mm ...

Страница 28: ...t pressure However there are some instances where adjustment is necessary such as when sewing light weight and heavyweight fabrics In such case for normal L for the lightest pressure and H for the heaviest For light weight fabric Decrease the pressure For heavy weight fabric Increase the pressure As shown on the illustration turn the dial counter clockwise to increase width of cutting and clockwis...

Страница 29: ...ut on the bias Setting 1 is differential dial setting for ratio 1 1 Gathered overlock is most suited for shirring sleeves yokes front and back bodices skirt hems etc in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before assembling into garment To set the differential dial for gathering Set differential feed adjusting dial above setting 1 Setting of adjusting dial depends on material being sewn as wel...

Страница 30: ...apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot PLEASE NOTE If amount of stretch is not correctly set in rela tion to the fabric being sewn the fabric is apt to shift away from the needle resulting in improp erly sewn overlock seam In such case reset differential feed adjusting dial closer to the center mark Be sure to reset the differential fee...

Страница 31: ...sample At the end of the sample continue to run the machine with the presser foot down until the chain reaches 15 20 cm 6 8 in length Cut thread PLEASE NOTE Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this may deflect the needle causing it to break PLEASE NOTE In case it is difficult to chain off when chain stitching pull the fabric lightly backward PLEASE NOTE Anytime you have rethreaded the machin...

Страница 32: ... thread tension is too loose Turn the lower looper thread tension dial red toward a higher number PLEASE NOTE These are suggested tension settings only Tension settings are effected by 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fiber content of thread Thread Color Code refer page 19 2 Thread Wrapped Overlock wide 9 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 2 5 3 0 2...

Страница 33: ... yellow or green toward a higher number Or turn the lower looper thread tension dial red toward a lower number PLEASE NOTE These are suggested tension settings only Tension settings are effected by 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fiber content of thread Thread Color Code refer page 19 2 Thread Overlock wide 14 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 0 0...

Страница 34: ...ock wide 3 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 3 0 4 0 3 5 3 Thread Overlock narrow 4 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 4 0 4 0 4 0 Thread Color Code refer page 19 NP Refer page 15 RHP N Refer page 14 15 SL 2 5 4 Refer page 27 ULC Refer page 14 1 2 6 5 1 3 4 2 6 5 3 4 1 2 6 5 3 4 1 2 6 5 3 4 1 2 6 5 1 3 4 2 6 5 3 4 1 2 6 5 3 4 1 2 6 5 3 4 1 2 6 5 1 3 4 2 6...

Страница 35: ...Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 0 4 0 7 5 3 Thread Flatlock narrow 6 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 0 4 5 7 5 When the upper looper thread tension is too loose Turn the upper looper thread tension dial blue toward a higher number Or turn the needle thread tension dial yellow or green toward a lower number When the needle thread tension is too loose Turn the needle threa...

Страница 36: ...ngs are effected by 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fiber content of thread 2 Thread Flatlock wide 11 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 0 4 0 2 Thread Flatlock narrow 12 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 0 4 5 When the lower looper thread tension is too loose Turn the lower looper thread tension dial red toward a higher numbe...

Страница 37: ... Size type and fiber content of thread 3 Thread Super Stretch 2 Medium weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red 4 0 4 0 3 5 When the left needle thread tension is too loose Turn the left needle thread tension dial yellow toward a higher number When the right needle thread tension is too loose Turn the needle thread tension dial green toward a higher number Thread Color Code refer page 19 4...

Страница 38: ...low Green Blue Red 4 0 4 0 4 0 4 0 When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric Turn the lower looper thread tension dial red toward a higher number Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial blue toward a lower number When the left needle thread tension is too loose Turn the needle thread tension dial yellow toward a higher number When the right needle thread tension is too loo...

Страница 39: ...eam width finger knob to setting R Align left face of seam width finger support plate with R mark on stitch plate by turning seam width adjustment knob as required Set stitch length dial to 1 2 and a fine seam will be sewn Needle ELx705 Thread A variety of thread combinations can be used for rolled hemming PLEASE NOTE Rolled hemming can only be performed with the overlock right needle PLEASE NOTE ...

Страница 40: ... the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained The minimum overlock stitch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1 16 1 5 mm since the cutting width cannot be set below 9 64 3 5 mm PLEASE NOTE Test the liquid seam sealant for color fastness ...

Страница 41: ... For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with light weight regular thread 3 Thread Narrow Seam 7 Light weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red Polyester 4 0 5 0 4 5 Woolly nylon 4 0 3 0 4 0 3 Thread Rolled Hem 8 Light weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red Polyester 4 0 4 5 6 5 Woolly nylon 4 5 0 6 5 Thread Color Code r...

Страница 42: ...a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper with wooly nylon and the needle with light weight regular thread 2 Thread Rolled Hem 13 Light weight fabric Tension Dial Yellow Green Blue Red Polyester 4 5 4 0 Woolly nylon 4 0 3 5 NP Refer page 15 RHP R Refer page 14 15 SL 1 2 Refer page 27 ULC Refer page 14 6 5 3 2 Thread Color Code refer page 19 ...

Страница 43: ...amentation only Machine Set Up Use either overlock right needle or overlock left needle Begin with the machine threaded and tension balanced for the 2 thread flatlock page 36 or 3 thread flatlock stitch page 35 Flatlocking a Seam Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side of the garment Sew the seam trimming the excess fabric The needle thread yellow or gree...

Страница 44: ... looper thread is the prominent thread in the flatlock stitch Place a decorative thread in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads in the lower looper and needle For a ladder stitch sew seam with right sides together The needle thread will be the prominent thread that creates the ladder A Fold fabric wrong sides together Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending ...

Страница 45: ... the fabric then back to the right side with 1 4 6 mm beyond the fold Stitch on the extended hem edge allowing the machine needle to barely catch the edge of the fold PLEASE NOTE The rolled hem stitch can also be used for this technique PLEASE NOTE An optional blindstitch foot is available Refer page 51 How to sew Pin Tucks Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting out the garment Use ...

Страница 46: ...orner Cut out approximately 2 cm 51 64 from the corner in line with the overlock seam edge Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the upper knife is positioned in line with the cut edge Pull slack threads up then start to sew Sew one stitch beyond point A and stop Raise needle and presser foot Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the fi...

Страница 47: ...on of the knives Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the upper knife is positioned in line with the cut edge Pull slack threads up then start to sew CAUTION Sewing over pins will damage and or destroy the cutting edge of the knives Securing The Thread Chain Thread a large eye hand sewing needle such as a tapestry needle with the thread chain Insert the needle into the end of the sea...

Страница 48: ...icate the internal working parts Cleaning The Machine Oiling The Machine Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often with a dry lint brush The oiling points shown in the diagram should be oiled periodically CAUTION Before cleaning your machine disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle CAUTION Before lubricating your machine disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle PLEA...

Страница 49: ...representative to make the replacement Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source a Open the looper cover and set the upper knife in the working position b Loosen the upper knife set screw c Remove the upper knife and turn the handwheel to lower the upper knife holder to its lowest posi tion d In this position put a new upper knife in the groove of the upper knife ho...

Страница 50: ...er foot plate on stitch plate under presser foot shank so that hinge pin C will fit in slot B of the shank Then lower presser foot lever If presser foot plate can not be placed under presser foot shank easily raise presser foot lever to its High Lift position and while holding it in this position place presser foot plate under presser foot shank Then lower presser foot lever Raise presser foot lev...

Страница 51: ...re seam should not be visible Gathering Foot This foot is most suited for gathering when sewing tiered skirts yokes cuffs and frills on skirts etc This foot is also suited for sewing two fabrics together and gathering the bottom fabric in one operation Beading Sequins Foot This foot is used for sewing on beads etc Piping Foot This sewing foot is suited for sewing welting between two plies of fabri...

Страница 52: ...a blunt point Use only ELx705 overlock needles 2 Tighten needle set screw 3 Insert needles correctly 4 Change type or size of needles 5 Check threading 6 Increase presser foot pressure 7 Use a high quality thread 9 16 16 16 19 25 28 53 Irregular stitches 1 Balance thread tension 2 Check for tangled or caught thread 3 Check threading 31 38 26 19 25 Fabric puckers 1 Loosen thread tension 2 Check for...

Страница 53: ...ton 60 80 Silk Rayon 50 Spun 60 80 Polyester 60 80 90 14 80 12 Heavy weight Oxford Denim Tweed Serge Corduroy Cotton 40 60 Silk Rayon 40 60 Spun 60 80 Polyester 50 80 90 14 Knit Fabric Thread Needle ELx705 Light weight Tricot Spun 80 90 Polyester 60 80 80 12 Medium weight Jersey Spun 60 80 Polyester 60 80 Cotton 60 80 90 14 80 12 Heavy weight Wool woven knit Spun 60 80 Polyester 50 60 Woolly nylon...

Страница 54: ...standard overlock 2 5 Differential feed stretching 1 0 6 gathering 1 2 with differential feed machine Presser foot lift 4 5 mm Sewing light LED Sewing speed 1300 stitches minutes Foot control Type 4C 316B for USA Canada Type 4C 316C 4C 326C 4C 326G 4C 345G for other countries Dimensions L x B x H mm 336 x 263 x 294 Weight kg 7 2 kg EN 12 2016 1st Edition 5040005 0 04 G8P01 BERNINA International AG...

Страница 55: ......

Страница 56: ...www mybernette com yellow shirt EN 12 2016 1st Edition 5040005 0 04 G8P01 BERNINA International AG Steckborn CH www bernina com ...

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