6-2
Troubleshoot No-Start Condition
1. Check that the battery is fully charged. If the
battery repeatedly dies, check the regulator
and charge wire going from the regulator to the
starter battery stud.
2. Check that the fuel valve is fully open.
3. If the battery is good and the starter does not
engage
a. Check that the park brake is engaged and the
PTO switch is off.
b. Check the fuse under the instrument panel.
c. Check the battery (+) and (-) wires to the
engine.
d. Check the harness ground wire at the engine.
e. Check the harness power connection (red)
where the battery cable is connected to the
engine/solenoid
f. Check the connections of the (green) start
wire at the key switch, PTO interrupt switch,
brake interlock switch, and starter.
g. The starter may have failed. Check your
engine manual.
Moving the Mower if it won’t Start
•
Rotate both of the hydro bypass valve levers
about ½ turn CCW.
•
DO NOT over tighten these levers.
•
Damage may occur to the pump if this valve is
over tightened.
Troubleshoot No-PTO Condition
1. Engine runs but PTO won’t engage.
2. Shut down machine, remove key, allow to cool,
and checking the belt and wiring going to the
clutch.
3.
While the engine is off, disconnect the clutch
wire, turn on the blade switch and check for
battery power from the harness. The Blue wire
that goes to the red clutch wire is power from
the PTO switch. The black/orange strip wire
going to the black clutch wire is the ground wire
going to the relay, switch by the platform switch.
a. If no voltage, check relay, Operator Presence
Switch, and PTO switch
b. If battery voltage is coming from the harness,
check the clutch.
4. To check the clutch
a. Visually check the gap between clutch and
the armature. If the gap is excessive the
clutch is mechanically worn out of spec and
must be replaced. A worn clutch may work
when cold and not reengage once warm
and the magnetic coil increases electrical
resistance.
b. Use an ohm meter and measure the
resistance in the clutch. It should be
approximately 1.84 ohms. If the number is
much lower the coil has likely shorted out. If
the number is much higher (or infinite) there is
likely a burnt or “open” coil.
Height of Cut
1. Before adjusting the height-of-cut be sure
the machine engine is off, and rear tires have
proper air pressure, the parking brake is
applied, and the machine is on a flat surface.
2.
Set the deck lift pin to 3”.
3. Lower the deck lift handle and release the
button. Lift gently on the handle to allow the
button to pop into position.
4. The machine deck can be adjusted for pitch and
side-to-side leveling. Pitch is the relationship
between the front of the deck and the rear of
the deck in regards to height of cut. In most
cases, a positive pitch (front of the deck lower
than the rear of the deck) of ¼” is the optimum
setting. These adjustments can easily be made
by using the adjustment nut on the hang bolt.
5. Align blades front to rear, measure front and
rear blade tips to grounds. The front blade tip
should be 3” and rear should be between 3 1/8
– 3 1/4”.
6.
Using a ¾” wrench adjust hangers to evenly
support the deck at the desired pitch.
Cut Setting Recommendations
Correct cut height is critical to healthy turf. Cutting
off more than 1/3rd of the blade stresses the turf.
In general, the turf will be healthy when cut longer.
When cut taller, the turf develops deeper roots, is
more drought resistant, more disease resistant, and
suppresses weeds. Cut quality is improved when cut
heights are maintained as listed below:
Recommended Mowing Heights
•
Tall Fescue: 1 ½” – 3”
•
Kentucky Bluegrass: 1 ½” – 2 ½”
•
Bahia Grass: 2” – 3”
•
Bermuda Grass: ½”-1”
•
St. Augustine Grass: 1” – 3”
•
Zoysia Grass: 1/2” – 1”
Clean under the deck regularly. Grass build up will
cause the airflow to be interrupted and result in poor
cut quality. Blades that are worn and have rounded
tips will not cut well.
