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Display is Flashing “E5”
Possible Causes
Possible Remedies: (Unplug stove first when possible)
The stove automatically flashes "E5" when turned on
The T-stat sensor has come unplugged form the control board.
Check to see if the sensor is unplugged. If the sensor is not
unplugged then the sensor is damaged or has a short. If the
sensor is damaged or has a short it will need to be replaced.
The hopper is out of Pellets.
Refill the hopper.
The hopper safety switch has failed or hopper is open.
When operating the unit, be sure the hopper lid is closed so
that the hopper safety switch will activate. Check the wires
leading from the hopper safety switch to the control panel and
auger motor for secure connections. Use a continuity tester to
test the hopper safety switch; replace if necessary.
The auger shaft is jammed.
Start by emptying the hopper. Then remove the auger motor
by removing the auger pin. Remove the auger shaft inspection
plate in the hopper so that you can see the auger shaft. Gently
lift the auger shaft straight up so that the end of the auger shaft
comes up out of the bottom auger bushing. Next, remove the
two nuts that hold the top auger biscuit in. Then rotate the
bottom end of the auger shaft up towards you until you can lift
the shaft out of the stove. After you have removed the shaft,
inspect it for bent flights, burrs, or broken welds. Remove any
foreign material that might have caused the jam. Also, check
the auger tube for signs of damage such as burrs, rough spots,
or grooves cut into the metal that could have caused a jam.
The auger motor has failed.
Remove the auger motor from the auger shaft and try to run
the unit. If the motor will turn the shaft is jammed on something.
If the motor will not turn, the motor is bad.
Stove Feeds Pellets, But Will Not Ignite
Possible Causes
Possible Remedies: (Unplug stove first when possible)
Air damper open too far for ignition.
Push the air damper in closer to the side of the stove for startup.
In some situations it may be necessary to have the damper
completely closed for ignition to take place. After there is a
flame, the damper can then be adjusted for the desired feed
setting.
Blockage in igniter tube or inlet for igniter tube.
Find the igniter housing on the backside of the firewall. The
air intake hole is a small hole located on bottom side of the
housing. Make sure it is clear. Also, look from the front of the
stove to make sure there is not any debris around the igniter
element inside of the igniter housing.
The burnpot is not pushed completely to the rear of the
firebox.
Make sure that the air intake collar on the burnpot is touching
the rear wall of the firebox.
Bad igniter element.
Put power directly to the igniter element. Watch the tip of the
igniter from the front of the stove. After about 2 minutes the tip
should glow. If it does not, the element is bad.
The control board is not sending power to the igniter.
Check the voltage going to the igniter during startup. It should
be a full current. If the voltage is lower than full current, check
the wiring. If the wiring checks out good, the board is bad.
Convection Blower Shuts Off And Comes Back On
Possible Causes
Possible Remedies: (Unplug stove first when possible)
The convection blower is overheating and tripping the
internal temperature shutoff.
Clean any dust off of the windings and fan blades. If cleaning
the blower does not help, the blower may be bad.
Circuit board malfunction.
Test the current going to the convection blower. If there is
power being sent to the blower when it is shut off, then the
control board is fine. If there is NOT power being sent to the
blower when it shuts off during operation, then you have a bad
control board.