.
Applying The Decals
Cut out the decals with sharp scissors, leaving about 1/32" to 1/16" of clear at all edges and rounding the corners as you
cut. Wet the surface on which the decal will be placed with soapy water (use dishwashing detergent). Place the decal on
the model and squeegee the water from underneath with a balsa paddle. This procedure allows time for repositioning and
prevents air from being trapped under the decal. Allow several hours to dry.
INSTALLING EASY HINGES
Sig's famous Easy Hinges have been included with your kit to hinge all of the
control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is actually a three-part laminate - a tough
plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbant wicking material. They have been
chemically treated to slow down the reaction of thin CA (which is normally
instant), to allow the glue time to soak all the way to the ends of the hinge and
into the wood surrounding it. Once the glue has dried, the hinge cannot be pulled
from the structure without tearing the wood out with it! We recommend that all
surfaces be covered before hinging.
51.
Using a No.11 X-Acto blade (or similar), cut slots approximately 1/2" in depth and
slightly wider than the hinges. Cut three slots in the stabilizer and three matching
slots in the elevators at the locations shown on the plans.
52.
After all of the slots have been cut, insert Easy Hinges halfway into the stabilizer
slots. Do not glue the hinges yet! Next, carefully slide the elevator onto the
hinges. You'll find it easiest to slide the elevator onto the hinges at an angle, one
at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all of the hinges at once. Don't
be concerned if the hinges aren't perfectly straight or centered in the slots - they'll
work fine regardless of their final position.
53.
a. To set the hinge gap, deflect the elevator to the maximum amount needed.
For best control response, the gap should be as small as possible but big
enough to allow full movement of the control surface without binding.
b. Easy Hinges were designed to use Thin CA (any brand) for maximum glue
penetration. Place three or four large drops of thin CA directly onto the
hinges in the gap. The glue will wick into the slot as it penetrates both the
wood and the hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of all the
hinges, then turn the stabilizer over and repeat the gluing process on the
other side of each hinge.
54.
After the glue has cured (3 to 5 minutes) the joint should be flexed to full deflection in each direction a couple of dozen
times to reduce the stiffness. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinges as they are almost indestructible.
55.
a. The ailerons are hinged like the elevator, but the torque rods must be glued as well. Start by cutting the slots in the
wing and the ailerons (two per aileron) and slide the hinges into the ailerons.
b. Slide a small piece of wax paper between the torque rods and the wing. Working with one aileron at a time, apply
Kwik-Set epoxy to the slot and hole in the aileron leading edge and slide it onto the torque rod, working the Easy
Hinges into the wing slots at the same time. Before the glue sets, be sure to deflect the aileron back and forth to set
the proper hinge gap.
c. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the wax paper and apply thin CA to the hinges as you did earlier.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
56.
Use a sharp knife to carefully cut away the covering material on the fins where thry contact the stabilizer. Glue the fins to
the stabilizer using a triangle to check their alignment.