.
6. Place three or four drops of Thin CA glue directly onto the Easy Hinge in the gap. You will notice that the glue is quickly
wicked into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the hinge. Turn the part over and glue the other side of the Easy
Hinge. Continue this process until you have glued both sides of all the Easy Hinges! Keep a rag handy to wipe off any
excess Thin CA. (CA glue residue can be cleaned from most iron-on plastic covering materials with CA Debonder).
VERY IMPORTANT: Make only one application of glue to each side of an Easy Hinge! If you apply additional
glue to the hinge after the first application of glue is already dry, the second application of glue will merely puddle
in the hinge gap and make the hinge too stiff to operate properly. The excess glue could also weaken the hinge!
When properly glued, the portion of the Easy Hinge that you can see in the hinge gap should have a dry
appearance, not wet. A dry appearance indicates that almost all of the glue has properly soaked into the hinge
slot. A wet appearance indicates that excess glue is puddled in the hinge gap. Three to four good size drops of
Thin CA should be about the right amount.
NEVER USE CA ACCELERATOR ON EASY HINGES!
7.
Let the glue dry a minimum of 3-5 minutes before flexing the hinges. At first you might notice a little stiffness in the joint.
This will go away after the hinges have been flexed back and forth a couple dozen times.
63.
The elevator must be hinged before the rudder - if you reverse this order you will have to cut off the rudder to hinge the
elevator!!
64.
a
Two #2 flat washers are included in the kit to act as retainers for the tailwheel.
Of course, you can use 1/16” wheel collars (not included in kit), but the soldered
washers give a more "finished" look.
The secret to successful soldering is
cleanliness. Sand the wire and the
washers, then wipe them clean with
alcohol. Begin the job by soldering
the inner washer, which can be held
in place with a temporary piece of
heat-proof silicone fuel tubing
(1). When cool,
install the
tailwheel
followed by a
thin cardboard
spacer and the
outer washer.
(2). Solder the
washer, allow
to cool, then
remove the
cardboard
spacer. Grind
off the excess
wire and file
the end smooth.
(3). Done
properly, this
installation
should be
completely
trouble free.
b.
Wipe the oil off the tailwheel wire with solvent and sand the area where the wire
is in the rudder. Insert the tailwheel wire into the tailwheel bracket and using the
plans as a guide, bend over the end of the tailwheel wire.
c.
Mark and drill the holes in the bottom of the fuselage for the tailwheel bracket.
Mount the tailwheel bracket with two #4 x1/2" sheet metal screws.
d.
Tape the rudder to the fuselage and mark the line of the tailwheel wire on the
rudder. Remove the rudder from the fuselage and drill a 1/16" hole for the
tailwheel wire. ‘Harden’ the hole with thin CA and redrill the hole after the CA has
cured.
e.
Trial fit the rudder with hinges to the tailwheel wire, bracket and rear of fuselage.
If everything works smoothly glue the hinges and the tailwheel wire.
65
a.
Although the interplane connections require a fully assembled aircraft to
complete, you should mark and drill the holes for the aileron interconnect horns
in the ailerons. Don’t forget to harden the holes with CA and to redrill the holes
after the CA has cured.
b.
Hinge all four ailerons, making sure you glue the torque rods to the lower aileron
only and not the brass tubing bearing. The hardest part of this kit is now behind
you.
Tank Installation
BUILDERS TIP:
An easy way to guide the lines through the firewall holes is to use two long pieces of 4-40 threaded rod. Thread the rod
from the nose of the airplane through the firewall and into the radio space. Leave each line a little long and push the
end of each line over a threaded rod. As you insert the tank gently pull on the threaded rods to guide the fuel line
through the firewall.