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b.

The recommended engine installation, using a side mounted engine, is shown on the plan. The original models used no 
engine offset to the right or down and this gave good results. It is easiest to install the engine mounts before the firewall is 
attached to the fuselage. Mark the vertical and horizontal center lines on the firewall, using the drawing on the plan as a 
reference. Determine the spacing required between the engine mounts for your engine. Mark the appropriate mount 
locations and mounting hole spots on the firewall.

 
c.

 
Drill the engine mount holes in the firewall. Epoxy 6-32 blind nuts to the back of 
the firewall to retain the mounts. The holes in the firewall must be large enough 
to allow the blind nuts to pull into the firewall when the mounting bolts are 
tightened.

 

SPECIAL NOTE: 
The backplate on Goldberg spinners 
has a recessed back, so the engine 
must be mounted about 1/8" farther 
ahead than when using other brands 
of spinners. This is not a problem, but 
it is best to have the spinner on hand - 
whatever the brand - when installing 
the cowl, to be sure of good 
alignment.

 
d.

 
The engine should be positioned on the aluminum mounts so that the spinner 
backplate is about 1/16" to 3/32" ahead of the cowling. With the mounts bolted in 
place on the firewall, determine the proper location of the engine on the mounts 
and mark the mounting holes. Drill the holes with a #36 drill, and tap for 6-32 
mounting bolts.

 

3.

 

Joining The Fuselage Sides

 
a.

 
Bevel the rear ends of the fuselage 
sides on the inside as shown on the full 
size plan.

 
b.

 
Cover the top view of the fuselage plan 
with wax paper or plastic wrap. The 
sides are joined over the top view 
upside down - flat top of the sides 
against the building board. Start by 
pinning down the sides at the front 
(about the first 9") and joining along the 
top with several temporary 1/4" sq. 
cross-pieces. Join at the bottom by 
gluing the two grooved hardwood 
landing gear blocks in place. Check 
carefully that the grooves in the blocks 
are 2-1/4" apart ·as shown in the side 
view.

 
c.

 
Add plywood piece F11.

 
d.

 
After the front joints have dried, continue joining the sides toward the rear with 
1/4" sq. cross-pieces.

e.

When dry, remove the joined sides from the board and epoxy the firewall to the 
front. Note that the firewall sticks up above the main frame sides. Position 
accurately by marking the thrust line on the fuselage sides (the thrust line is 1/2" 
from the top of the main frame) and aligning the mark with the thrust line 
previously drawn on the firewall. When dry, the temporary 1/4" sq. balsa cross-
pieces along the top can be removed.

f.

Should the 1/4"x1/2" balsa provided for assembly under plywood platform F10 be 
a little bowed or not perfectly flat on one side, correct it with a sanding block. 
Carefully draw a line 1/4" from the top of the trued side.

Summary of Contents for SIGRC38

Page 1: ...ised at 120 mph and climbed at almost 2 500 ft per minute The top wing spanned 17 ft the fuselage was 15 ft long and the empty weight was just over 600 pounds Work was started on a second Miniplane and on a detailed construction plan set for sale to the Miniplane s new enthusiasts Frank Smith died before either were finished but his co workers completed the plans which resulted in dozens of exampl...

Page 2: ...rd into which pins can easily be pushed Lay the building board on a table with a flat and untwisted top Pins can be pushed through all pieces of balsa in the kit without any lasting damage The holes on the outside will fill up during sanding and doping Don t be afraid to use plenty of pins particularly when gluing planking on the top curve of the wing or the round top of the fuselage front Wax pap...

Page 3: ...lue and pin in place the wing saddle the 1 4 sq upright between the wing saddle and the nose doubler the nose doubler and finally the tail post e Cut and glue the remaining 1 4 sq pieces in place f When dry remove the pins and build a second frame side directly on top of the first Use wax paper or plastic wrap to keep the two sides from sticking together g When dry pin both main frame sides direct...

Page 4: ...on of the engine on the mounts and mark the mounting holes Drill the holes with a 36 drill and tap for 6 32 mounting bolts 3 Joining The Fuselage Sides a Bevel the rear ends of the fuselage sides on the inside as shown on the full size plan b Cover the top view of the fuselage plan with wax paper or plastic wrap The sides are joined over the top view upside down flat top of the sides against the b...

Page 5: ...ers separately with with a seam at the top Note also that there are two F2 formers to allow the areas fore and aft to be sheeted with separate pieces duplicating the profile of the full size Miniplane Start on one side by gluing and pinning a sheet to the top 1 4 sq of the main frame Glue only the area of formers F2 thru F5A Trim the sheet roughly to shape after trial bending over the formers Wet ...

Page 6: ... top or bottom from which you will be gluing first Flow thinner into the seam from the inside Squeeze and hold together any parts of the seam not closed Allow to dry Remove the masking tape and join the halves on the other side Allow to dry thoroughly e Even up the back edges of the cowl with a sanding block f Scrape and sand the seam to take out any rough spots or flaws Do not use coarse sandpape...

Page 7: ...rse grained paper Remove all of the gloss from the plastic with the sandpaper or the resin will not adhere properly Don t worry about scratches from the paper a rough surface will help the cloth and resin stick down Do not sand the outside of the cowl with this coarse paper Use only 220 and 360 Tri M Ite paper or equivalent and avoid scratching 2 Cut a piece of Sig Regular Weight Glass Cloth that ...

Page 8: ...ollars Solder the flanged collars to the axles NOTE We have found that the set screws alone cannot hold the pant securely in position after repeated takeoffs and landings A little solder has eliminated the problem on our test models e Remove the landing gear assembly and clean it thoroughly with sandpaper and dope thinner f Epoxy the 1 8 sq and 1 8 x1 4 balsa fairing pieces to the wires Carve and ...

Page 9: ... dry sand the outside edges round NOTE The stabilizer elevators fin and rudder are the easiest to cover before they are hinged and attached to the fuselage However before covering you should test assemble the tail surfaces on the hinges without glue to insure that a good edge and end match has been obtained in the sanding operation Then refer to the Covering Painting section and prepare the tail s...

Page 10: ... to each rib to secure the trailing edge Leave the gussets there they will help to keep the trailing edge from yielding to the pull of the doped covering when shrinking g Add the 5 16 sq top spars Join in the center of the wing with epoxy h True up the fronts of the ribs by sanding lightly with a long sanding block preferably at least 24 long i Glue the 1 8 x1 2 leading edge to the front of the ri...

Page 11: ...d sand to wing contour and round the edges x Insert the 1 8 x3 8 x3 4 plywood N strut mounting plates into the bottom surface of the wing Cut out the 1 16 balsa sheeting to install the front plates flush with the surface of the wing The rear plates should be installed against the rear spar and flush with the surface of the cap strip y Sand the entire wing with a sanding block to prepare it for cov...

Page 12: ...d hardwood insert blocks with a No 7 drill Check the top wing plan for the approximate loaction of the holes Avoid drilling into the 5 16 sq top spar Remove the wing and tap the holes in the hardwood inserts with a 1 4 20 tap Enlarge the holes in the platform with a 1 4 diameter drill to pass the nylon wing bolts Fill in the openings in the top sheeting above the wing bolts with 1 16 balsa h Epoxy...

Page 13: ...with a sanding block Add the 3 16 x1 2 L E cap and carve to shape Finish with a sanding block q Add the 1 16 x7 8 strips to the top of the wing at the location shown r Glue the aileron end ribs WF in place from the bottom of the wing Also glue in the WG ribs s Install 3 32 gussets against the WF ribs Glen Sig s Smith Miniplane and the first prototype model at Sig Field t Add 1 16 x7 8 strips to th...

Page 14: ...and the wing saddle on the appropriate side until the bottom wing will line up correctly b Glue the hardwood wing bolt blocks to the inside of the fuselage Brace them with 1 2 triangular balsa To complete the fuselage around the wing cutout add the 1 8 sheet balsa bottom between the wing blocks and the main frame c Place the wing in the fuselage against Fll Mark and drill a 1 4 hole in the center ...

Page 15: ... between the wings during soldering to achieve good alignment of the feet to the plywood plate See photo f Drill a pilot hole to allow the No 2 screw to thread into the plywood mounting plate g Use epoxy glue to attach the 1 8 sq balsa fairing strips to the wires and to glue the 1 8 x5 16 balsa stick connecting the struts Shape the strut fairing balsa by carving and sanding all of the comers round...

Page 16: ...hat covering and paint won t cover up poor workmanship Be sure all surfaces are smooth After the final sanding of the finished framework give it two coats of unthinned dope wherever you want the silk to adhere to the framework Give these areas another final light sanding Apply the silk wet but do not stretch too tightly as it will only encourage warping later on Pull the silk up just enough to get...

Page 17: ...es of the drafting tape with clear dope This seals the tape preventing leakage of the red trim color underneath the tape Spray on two coats of Light Red Supercoat Dope When dry carefully remove the tape Spray on a coat of clear dope to protect the colors from scuffing and to give the entire color scheme a uniform gloss The black pin stripes along the red and white color separation lines were put o...

Page 18: ... dishwater detergent Peel the decal film from the backing sheet Place the decal on the model and squeegee the water from underneath with a balsa paddle Allow to dry This procedure will prevent air from being trapped underneath as is possible when the decals are applied dry It also permits shifting it to exact position during application Decals applied dry cannot be moved after they are pressed on ...

Page 19: ... also Stow this completed package in front of the servos Make certain that the receiver will stay in place during aerobatic maneuvers The switch may be mounted wherever it is convenient on the side of the model preferably the side away from the engine oil Another good spot is inside of the cockpit where it may be reached easily See photo in Completing The Cockpit section 18 Brick type receiver and...

Page 20: ...hown The aileron pushrods are threaded rods with RC links cut off and connected to the servo output arm by one of the methods described above for the servo end of the fuselage pushrods DuBro No 103 or Rocket City No 05 strip aileron horn wire connectors are suggested to link the aileron pushrods to the wire torque rods 23 Muffler Installation Notes The prototype models of the Miniplane used the Ta...

Page 21: ...dealer for the names of good fliers in the vicinity and a suitable location for flying Many hours of work are involved in the construction of a model and it can all be lost in a moment of beginner s indecision A skilled flier can help you get past the first critical test and trimming flights without damage to the model and give instruction in proper control Hold a small amount of up elevator durin...

Page 22: ...LIABILITY In use of our products Sig Mfg Co s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be defective User shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith ...

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