.
You should realize that it is common among homebuilt versions of the same
aircraft for some component shapes (tail surface outlines, wing tips, etc.) to
vary from plane to plane depending on how the individual builder happened
to bend the tubing. Also, different engine installations often produce distinct
differences in the shape of the cowling and related scoops. The model was
designed from photos and measurements of Glen's actual aircraft. Towards
the end of these insuctions is a 3-View drawing of Glen's full size Miniplane
for use in Sport Scale judging.
Before Beginning Construction
This build guide lists step-by-step assembly instructions, keyed by paragraph
number to the isometric drawings and the photos. This does not mean that
the sequence must be followed exactly, step-by-step. You may wish to work
on several parts at the same time to speed construction. It may be desirable,
for example, to start building the wing or tail. while the preliminary parts of the
fuselage are drying. It is suggested that you read the instruction book and
study the plans carefully before beginning to build. That will help make it clear
where construction out of the descriptive sequence can be done. Any
reference to right or left refers to your right or left as if seated in the cockpit.
A piece of Celotex-type wallboard makes a handy building board, into which pins can easily be pushed. Lay the building board
on a table with a flat and untwisted top. Pins can be pushed through all pieces of balsa in the kit without any lasting damage.
The holes on the outside will fill up during sanding and doping. Don't be afraid to use plenty of pins, particularly when gluing
planking on the top curve of the wing or the round top of the fuselage front.
Wax paper should be used to protect the plan during building when the glue used is
epoxy or an alphatic resin glue such as Sig-Bond. If a model cement like Sig-Ment is
preferred, use plastic wrap to protect the drawing. This type of glue can dissolve the
wax out of wax paper which will inhibit drying.
Be careful where you use a ball point pen for making marks. If not sanded off, these
marks will bleed through many coats of dope and show on the finished model.
Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths, before cutting up any
full length strips into short pieces. Leave the die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in
construction. Remove pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do
not force the part from the sheet. Use a modeling knife to cut it free.
A jig saw is best for cutting out the printed balsa parts. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the line on the part. When fitting
into place in the structure, use a sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit. If an X-Acto knife is used don't cut too close to
the lines but leave enough margin to true up and finish the edge with a sanding block.
