3
1 Bag
❑
(8) Hardwood Servo Mounting Blocks
(8) T2.6 x 10 mm PWA Screws
1 Bag
❑
4" dia. Spinner Assembly - includes:
(1) Aluminum Back Plate
(1) Plastic Spinner Cone, Red
(1) M4 x 60 mm S/H Bolt
(1) M7(1.0) Adapter Nut
(1) M8(1.25) Adapter Nut
(1) 5/16" Adapter Nut
(1) 3/8" Adapter Nut
(3) Prop Washers
1 Bag
❑
(8) T3 x 14 mm P/H Sheet Metal Screws, for retracts
❑
(1) Set Retractable Main Landing Gear
❑
(1) P-51B Decal Sheet #SIGDKM103A
❑
(1) P-51B Decal Sheet #SIGDKM103B
❑
(1) P-51B Printed Cockpit Details, Cardstock
Hardware Notes
• This kit contains both standard and metric hardware.
• Metric Screws typically have a "T" designation - i.e. T2.6 x
20 mm PWA Screw is a screw having a diameter of 2.6 mm and
a length of 20 mm with a Phillips Washer Head.
• Metric Bolts typically have a "M" designation - i.e. M4 x 60 mm
S/H Bolt is a bolt having a diameter of 4 mm and a length of
60 mm with a Socket-Head. The nuts and washers that go with
the bolts also have a corresponding "M" designation.
• Abbreviations for head styles of bolts and screws
PWA = Phillips Washer Head
P/H = Phillips-Head
S/H = Socket-Head
S/H = Slotted-Head
F/H = Flat-Head
COVERING MATERIAL
Your SIG P-51B Mustang ARF model has been professionally
covered with SIG Aerokote
®
iron-on plastic covering. This high
quality polyester film covering has been expertly applied, using a
scale color scheme based on the legendary "Shangri-La" flown by
WWII ace Don Gentile.
For reference, the SIG P-51B Mustang is covered with the
following Aerokote
®
colors and part numbers:
Olive Drab
#SIGSTL340
Slate Grey
#SIGSTL202
Wrinkles! Some wrinkles may develop in the covering of your
P-51B after you've removed the parts from their original plastic
bags. If that is the case, there is no need to be alarmed. This is
perfectly normal and does not mean that your model has a defect.
The SIG P-51B ARF kits are built and covered in a part of the world
(China), that is typically very humid. When the covered parts are
removed from their plastic bags some wrinkling may occur,
especially if you live in a climate drier than where it was applied.
Such wrinkles are a result of the wood itself losing moisture and
dimensionally shrinking slightly in the process. This is the nature
of wood, especially soft wood like balsa. The airframe doesn't have
to shrink much (you can't measure it with a ruler) for the covering
to show a wrinkle. With over 40 years of experience with iron-on
plastic covering materials, we know that any covering material -
regardless of brand - that has been hand applied over wood is
subject to the possibility of wrinkling.
Any wrinkles that appear in the covering are easy to remove by
using normal hobby-type covering tools, such as a heat iron, a trim
seal tool, and a heat gun. We suggest covering the heat iron with
a thin soft cotton cloth, such as an old T-shirt, to prevent scratching
the film. The iron should be set to about 250
O
F (121
O
C).
First, use the hot iron to go over all the seams and color joints in
the covering, making sure they are all sealed down and well
adhered. Then, use the heated iron to lightly shrink the wrinkled
material - do not press on the covering - hold the iron right over
the surface. After the covering is tight, you can lightly iron the
material down to the wood.
You can also use a hobby-type heat gun to re-shrink the covering
material, but you must be extra careful around the seams. This is
because a heat gun generates a great deal of broadcast type heat
that in turn can loosen the seams, often causing the seams to
"creep". If you must use a heat gun around or near seams, we
suggest that you protect the seams from the heat by soaking a few
paper towels in cool tap water and arrange the wet towels directly
onto and over the seams. You can then use your heat gun to
carefully shrink the neighboring areas. The wet strips cool the
seam while the covering immediately next to it shrinks.
Note that the temperatures required to shrink and seal Aerokote
®
(about 250
O
F) are high enough to melt and/or distort plastic parts.
Exercise common sense when working with heat around the
plastic parts on your P-51B.
Also, to avoid unnecessary dents, dings, or scuffing of your
airplane parts, we suggest that you cover your workbench with a
soft household blanket or foam sheet while working on your model.
HINGING THE AILERONS AND FLAPS
❑
1) As received in the kit, both wing panels have the ailerons
and flaps temporarily hinged in place. Be aware that the hinges
are NOT GLUED in place! You will permanently hinge the ailerons
and flaps to the wing shortly. For now, remove the ailerons and
flaps from the wing panels, pulling out all of the hinges and setting
them aside until called for.
❑
2) Make sure all the edges of the Aerokote
®
covering are sealed
down tight to the model structure. Then, re-tighten the covering if
needed. See previous section on COVERING MATERIAL.
❑
3) Fuel proof the leading edge dowels and the inside of the
wing bolt holes by soaking them with a coat of Thin CA. Avoid
getting a visible large build-up of glue - use only enough CA to
soak into the wood and disappear.
❑
4) Hinge the flaps first. We recommend using epoxy glue for
this job - either the 30-minute or 5-minute variety - it's your choice.
Just remember when using 5-minute epoxy to keep the job size
small enough to allow you to get done before the glue dries. We've
had no problem using 5-minute epoxy for this step, but if you don't
want to feel rushed, you should use the slower drying variety.
a) Use a toothpick or sharpened dowel to apply a small
amount of Vasoline
®
to the center pivot point of each point hinge -
do not get Vasoline
®
on the outer arms of the hinges. The Vasoline
®
protects the hinge pivot point from the epoxy glue.
b) Working on one flap at a time, mix up a small batch of
epoxy and use a toothpick, wire, or sharpened dowel to apply a
thin coat of glue inside each of the four pre-drilled holes in the flap.
Also, apply a thin coat of glue to the outer arms of the four hinges
- one half only. Quickly push the hinges in place in the holes. Make
sure the pivot pin of each hinge is in line with the leading edge of
the flap. Wipe off any excess glue that oozes out of the hole, using