.
50.
a. Solder the tailwheel wire support washer in place first. This washer transfers the load on the
tailwheel wire to the bracket without splitting the bracket. If the wire is clamped upside down in
a vise the washer will lay in the correct position. Before soldering the washer check the spacing
between the bracket and the wire. The wire should protrude 1/8" below the bracket to lay flush
in the groove in the rudder. Place a thin cardstock spacer between the wire and the bracket to
minimize the heat transfer during soldering. Solder the washer with a minimum of heat to avoid
damaging the tailwheel bracket.
b. To hold the inner tailwheel washer in place for soldering slide a small, short piece of silicon fuel
tube over the wire. Solder the #2 washer close to the bend in the wire to keep the wheel
centered and free turning.
c. When the wire has cooled, place the tailwheel on the wire, place a thin cardstock spacer on the
wire, place the outer washer on the wire and solder the washer in place. Wash all the flux off
the wire and washers with alcohol and/or hot water to keep everything from rusting together.
d. Sand and wipe clean the top of the tailwheel wire and glue it in the bottom of the rudder with
SIG KWIK-SET epoxy. Tape the nylon tailwheel bracket to the fuselage to maintain alignment
until the glue cures.
e. Allow the epoxy to cure, then reinforce the tailwheel area with a 2-1/2" long piece of 2" wide
fiberglass tape applied with SIG KWIKSET epoxy. When the glue has cured, remove the
rudder along with the entire tailwheel assembly from the fin and fuselage.
NOTE: The tailwheel bracket will be attached to the fuselage during final assembly.
51.
a. The balsa tail fairing blocks can now be glued to the fuselage using the stabilizer and the fin to position them
accurately. Cut two 3" lengths of 1/2" balsa triangle stock to serve as tail fairing blocks. Make sure your fin is
centered on the fuselage (as viewed from above), then carefully glue the fairing blocks to the back of F-6 (not the tail
surfaces). Gently slide the fin and stabilizer off the fuselage and apply a second coat of glue to the front of the fairing
blocks.
b. Temporary scrap spacers are used to support the fairing blocks during shaping. Spot glue a 3/8"x3/4"x2" balsa
spacer (not included) to the stab support centered under the fairing blocks. Glue a scrap piece of 3/16"x3/8" balsa
(not included) to the top of the spacer between the fairing blocks. Finally, spot glue the fairing blocks to the spacers.
c. Carve and sand the fairing blocks to blend in smoothly with F6 and the fuselage stringers. Use a sanding block with
one end wrapped with paper to protect the stringers from the sandpaper. Leave the spacers in place until the
fuselage is covered. This will help prevent damage to the fairing blocks.
FINISHING AND FLYING
General Covering Instructions
We recommend that you cover the wing, fuselage, tail surfaces, and
control surfaces individually before hinging and final assembly. The
individual parts are much easier to handle and will suffer far less
hanger rash.
The Four-Star 60 prototypes were covered with SIG SUPERCOAT
iron-on plastic film. SIG SUPERCOAT is ideal for sport models
because it's lightweight and easy to apply.
The following instructions provide advice and procedures specific to
covering the Four-Star 60 with either SIG SUPERCOAT or SIG
KOVERALL. If another brand of covering material is selected, be sure
to read the manufacturer's directions and follow them carefully.