.
NOTE: The hole in FBF is provided to serve as an oil drain hole as well as a convenient place to route the vent line from
the fuel tank and/or the breather line from the crankcase of a four-stroke engine.
31.
a. Cut two 1-15/16" pieces from the 3/4" balsa triangle stock to reinforce the
landing gear plate fuselage joint. For each piece; bevel the rear edge to
match former F-2, notch to clear the blind nuts on the backside of the
landing gear plate and glue in place with MEDIUM CA.
b. Cut two 4-1/2" pieces from the 3/4" balsa triangle stock to reinforce the
firewall (F-1). For each piece; bevel the bottom edge to match the fuselage
bottom, notch to clear the blind nuts on the back of F-1 and glue in place
with MEDIUM CA.
c. After the glue has cured on all four pieces of triangular stock reglue each
piece with THIN CA to insure complete penetration of glue into the joint -
loss of the landing gear plate or the firewall is generally a disaster.
32.
a. Install the tank floor. Make sure it is seated down on the fuselage doublers
and is against the firewall before gluing it in place.
b. Now is a good time to assemble and install the tank. Block the tank in
position with pieces of balsa, foam rubber or styrofoam. If the
recommended tank size is used (Dubro 12 ounce) the final installation can
be completed after the airplane is covered or painted. If you use a tank
other than the one recommended, it may not be possible to install the tank
later on, so do a complete installation now.
c. Remove the tank and glue in the nylon tubing for the throttle pushrod.
Slide the tank back in position, insert the steel cable throttle pushrod and
check for any binding. Correct any problems now as it will be hard to get to
this area later on.
33.
a. Glue the balsa top deck formers T-1, T-2, and T-3 into the correct slots in
FT. Note that T-1 is placed in front of and slightly lower than the top of FT.
b. Bevel the top edge of the fuselage sides with a sanding block to match the
formers to provide a firm seat for the fuselage top deck. Notice that the
angle between the top deck and the fuselage sides varies along the entire
length. Use the top deck formers as a guide to the sanding angle. Don't
worry about perfection - a few swipes with a sanding block on each side
should do the trick.
c. Tape the laser cut balsa top deck in place. You should apply some warm
water to the upper surface of the top deck to make it easier to bend into
shape and to prevent it from cracking. Apply MEDIUM CA to the top deck
from the inside as much as possible. When the CA has cured, remove the
tape.
34.
a. The two 3/4"x3/4"x1-1/2" basswood wing hold-down blocks key into the
pre-cut notches in the fuselage doublers. Temporarily tape the wing in
place on the fuselage and check the fit of the blocks by working though the
lightening holes in the rear of the fuselage. The blocks should seat firmly
against both the fuselage side and the top surface of the wing.
b. When satisfied with the fit of the wing hold-down blocks glue the blocks in
the fuselage with medium CA.
c. Cut two 1-3/8" lengths of 3/4" balsa triangle stock for reinforcements for
the wing-hold down blocks. Bevel the back edge to match former F-3 and
glue the triangle reinforcements to the top of the hold-down blocks, the
fuselage doublers and fuselage former.
d. Reglue all of the wing hold-down blocks and reinforcements with THIN CA.
It's really embarrassing to have the wing fly off in an outside loop.