.
40.
a. Fit the wing in place on the fuselage and check its alignment one last time.
When you are satisfied that the wing is aligned correctly, tape it so that it
can't move.
b. Drill #7 (or 13/64") holes through the wing using the laser cut holes in the
wing hold-down plate as a guide. Keep the drill perpendicular to the bottom
surface of the wing so the heads of the nylon bolts will seat flush against
the plywood plates.
c. Remove the wing and apply a few drops of THIN CA to the holes. When
the CA has cured, tap the wing hold-down blocks with a 1/4-20 tap. Apply a
few drops of THIN CA to the holes to strengthen the threads. After the CA
has cured, clean up the threads by re-tapping the holes.
d. Enlarge the holes in the wing to 1/4"to pass the nylon wing bolts.
Stabilizer And Elevator
41.
a. Tape the stabilizer plan to the building board, and cover it with waxed
paper.
b. Glue and pin down the 1/4" laser cut balsa pieces (S-1, S-2, S3, and S-4)
over the plans.
c. Cut the six 1/4" x 3/8" balsa ribs and glue in place with THIN CA.
d. When the glue has cured remove the frame from the building board and fill
any gaps in the stabilizer frame with MEDIUM CA.
42.
a. The stabilizer is sheeted on both sides with 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa. Assemble the balsa sheets per the diagram on a
piece of waxed paper with THIN CA to make two stabilizer skins. If the waxed paper is sprayed with accelerator
before gluing the skins the CA will not wick between the waxed paper and the balsa skins. The remaining balsa
sheets will be used for the fin skins.
b. Separate the skins from the waxed paper and sand the joints smooth BEFORE attaching them to the stabilizer.
Sanding the skins after attaching them to the framework will result in a "ripple effect".
43.
a. Sand the top and bottom of the stabilizer frame to smooth out the glue joints. Also sand the ends of the leading and
trailing edges.
b. Apply THICK CA or SIG-BOND to one side of the stabilizer frame, place it over the stabilizer skin, press in place and
immediately pin the assembly down to the building board to keep it flat while the glue cures.
c. Repeat for the opposite skin and allow the glue to cure.
d. Sand the sheets flush with the stabilizer frame all around. Round the leading edges with a sanding block and sand a
small flat spot at the center "point" of the stabilizer so that it will seat correctly against former F-6.
44.
a. Locate the two pre-cut 3/8" balsa elevators and sand the trailing edges round. Sand two 30° bevels on the leading
edge of the elevators with a sanding block. A pencil line drawn down the center of the elevators will help keep the
bevel symmetrical.
b. Use the plans to mark the elevators for the position of the 1/8" diameter music wire elevator jointer. Drill and groove
the leading edges to accept the elevator jointer. Sand the jointer wire and wipe it clean before gluing it to the
elevators with KWIK-SET Epoxy. Keep the leading edges of both elevators aligned as the glue cures.
c. Wrap two short pieces of 2" glass tape over the 1/8" jointer wire and glue in place with THIN CA.
d. Temporarily tape the elevators to the back of the stabilizer. Use a sanding block to match the ends of the elevators to
the stabilizer.