SEALINE S28, Owner'S Manual

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Sealine International Ltd. (V1.1)
Page 29 of 61
Laying Up & Maintenance
General
Due to the hostile environment in which your motor cruiser has to spend most of its life, you should be very
thorough when it comes to laying up or winterising. Listed below with descriptions are some of the most important
areas, which need your attention. This is only a guide; refer to individual manufacturers manuals for more detailed
instructions. Your motor cruiser should be removed from the water at least once every twelve months for
inspection, hull cleaning and application of fresh antifouling paint. In warm waters and areas of heavy fouling,
cleaning of marine growths from the hull bottom and stern gear will be required at shorter intervals. When you
crane your Sealine from the water, remember to remove the log paddle wheel (if fitted) and fit the blank supplied.
This will prevent the possibility of it becoming crushed by the straps used for craning.
Engines
We recommend that your engines are winterised and serviced by your local engine dealer. Failure to follow the
engine service schedule may invalidate your engine manufacturer’s warranty.
Trim Tabs
The anodes fitted to your trim tabs should be carefully inspected. If they appear to be more than 25% corroded it is
advisable to change them. The trim tab bellows should be checked as they can perish or become covered with
barnacles, which can pierce the bellows. If this happens, failure of the trim tab motor is imminent. As a matter of
course, trim tab bellows should be changed at the end of every second season or earlier in more polluted areas.
Propellers and Stern drives
Whenever your Sealine is removed from the water, a thorough inspection of all under water stern gear should be
made. Look for corrosion, wear and check the tightness of all bolts. A thorough inspection of the propellers should
be made for corrosion or damage caused during the season. Any serious propeller damage should be repaired
professionally, but small chips etc., can usually be filed out adequately.
Steering Gear
The various steering linkages on the stern drive unit and tie bar should be checked for tightness and lubricated
where necessary. The stern drive grease levels should be checked, this involves connecting a suitable grease gun
to the grease nipple and filling the housing until grease appears. Refer to manufacturers manuals for more detailed
instructions.
Fuel System
The fuel filters should be drained to remove any water, which may have entered the system during the season. The
filter elements should be changed but this can depend on the amount of use they have had. It is a good idea to
check all fuel line connections for tightness and wear and rectify as necessary. The fuel tanks should be filled to
reduce the risk of water entering the system through condensation, which forms quite easily in half filled fuel tanks.
There are fuel additives, which reduce corrosion on fuel lines, injectors, etc., due to water in the system.
Gas System
A registered gas installer for leaks and pipe work wear or corrosion should check your gas installation.
Water Tank
The fresh water tank should be drained. There are various cleaning fluids that can be added to the system, but
draining the system should be your primary objective. Running all the taps until they are dry and then disconnecting
the pipes from the water pump is the best way to achieve this. This will drain the water pump and allow any water
left in the system to drain away.
Clarifier
When draining the water system, all of the water taps will have been turned on. However, the clarifier will still need
draining even though the hot water tap may have run dry. This is quite simple as there is a drain tap mounted
towards the bottom of the clarifier. If the boat is out of the water, the speed log paddle wheel can be removed and a
length of pipe pushed through and connected to the clarifier drain, to prevent the problem of removing gallons of
water from the bilge.
WC, Sea cocks & Holding Tanks
The WC needs to be pumped dry to reduce the risk of freezing and cracking of the various parts. Toilet conditioner,
which lubricates, cleans and deodorises your toilet is available. If you intend to leave your boat afloat, you should
firstly close the inlet seacock, pump the toilet dry and then close the outlet seacock. If you are removing your boat
from the water, leave both sea cocks open and pump the toilet dry, to allow any remaining water in the system to
drain away. When draining the toilet, check for leaks and the condition of hoses and their clamps. Sea cocks
should be checked for corrosion and leaks. Holding tanks (if fitted) should be emptied and then flushed through
with a suitable sanitary fluid. A check should also be made on all hose connections.