Sabre Sabre 30, Owner'S Manual

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3/21/2017 Sabre 30 Owners Manual
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shaft. Then, with the engine in neutral, the shaft half coupling is held stationary and
the engine half coupling rotated and checked.
After being in the water for two or three weeks the alignment should be checked again. At
this time further adjustment is usually found to be necessary as the boat takes some time
to assume its final shape.
Never attempt a final alignment while the boat is still on land.
17:03 STUFFING BOX ASSEMBLY: The stuffing box is critical to your boat's safety and
performance. It depends on an age­old method of using wax­impregnated flax cord to create
a water barrier that self­ lubricates by allowing water to pass through at a controlled
rate. The rate of water passage should be inspected frequently to ensure proper
performance. (Refer to I­11)
The stuffing box is connected to the shaft log tube by means of a flexible rubber tube
held in place by hose clamps. The clamps should be tight at all times and no water should
pass from this location.
A slight drip from the stuffing box at the location where the shaft exits is acceptable
and necessary for cooling and lubrication. One or two drops every thirty seconds while
the engine is running is average. Excessive dripping should be attended to by loosening
the lock nut and tightening the gland nut 1/4 turn, then secure again with lock nut. If
excessive leaking continues after adjusting the gland nut and running the engine for
several hours, new packing is indicated.
Packing must be replaced with the boat out of the water. Loosen the lock nut, remove the
gland nut and pull out the old packing. Cut a piece of 1/4 inch packing, available at
marine stores, 10 1/2 inches long and wrap it firmly around the shaft just above the
stuffing box. Replace the gland nut, tighten 1/4 turn past hand­tight and lock with the
lock nut. After the boat is launched, run engine and observe stuffing box leakage.
Adjust as necessary.
17:00 DRIVE SHAFT AND PROPELLER SYSTEM (Cont'd)
17:04 PROPELLERS: Two blade solid bronze propellers are standard on all yachts.
Folding propellers offer the least amount of drag when under sail power and are preferred
by the serious racer.
FOLDING PROPELLERS: Interference can occur with the leading edge of the rudder when a
folding propeller is installed on the Sabre 34. Refer to Section 17:08 before installing
a folding propeller on a Sabre 34. Please refer to Part 4 of the Sabre Limited Warranty
before installing a folding propeller.
17:05 PROPELLER REMOVAL: For folding and solid propellers, a wheel puller or propeller
puller is required.
For a folding propeller, remove all cotter pins from the pivot and shaft nut. Knock out
the blade pivot pin with the punch and hammer. Remove blades. Remove shaft nut, which is
countersunk into the propeller hub, with a socket drive extension.
For solid propellers, remove the cotter pin and back off the lock nuts. The puller shaft
should rest directly on the end of the propeller shaft, and be installed straight and
centered. Tapping the propeller with a soft hammer or block of wood will help loosen a
propeller which is stuck.
17:06 PROPELLER INSTALLATION: Thoroughly check the inside of the propeller hub,
shaft, keyway and key for dirt, corrosion and burrs. Assemble parts onto the shaft with
the keyway on the shaft and propeller in line. The key should fit snugly at the sides
with a slight clearance at the top. Tighten locking nuts and install cotter pin.
17:07 PROPELLER SHAFT: The propeller shaft is solid bronze and is supported by the
engine coupling and an outboard strut holding a rubber cutlass bearing. Unobstructed
water flow is essential to good bearing life and to dissipate heat. Check all bearing
slots for obstructions at launch time. Do not apply bottom paint to the forward or aft