21
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lot 8 in the drive shaft end connects the drive shaft with the hydraulic pump. Be sure they line
up with each other when assembling. The stud with slotted hole can be replaced.
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The hydraulic tank 10 has the hydraulic pump inside. Contents should be app. 7 ltr (2 gallon).
The tank assembly does not have to be removed, other than when the bearing 4 or the
hydraulic components inside tank 10 needs to be checked.
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Holes 11 in pressure plate 16 need to have play around bushes 9 when assembled. Check
carefully, because if any load is applied to the pressure plate, the main clutch will not work
properly.
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The sliding bolts 12 need to be tightly fitted with nuts 15. The torque setting should be
minimum 100 Nm. On top of that medium loctite is needed.
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Spring 13 is the actual force that enables the friction clutch to work. All 4 need to be the same
all the time.
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Bolts 14 (2x) connect the pressure plate 16 to the pressure bearing (not drawn). These bolts
have to be secured with heavy loctite. They almost never have to be taken out and can stay in
position all the time.
Since we know something about the different components, we can disassemble the engine with
the complete drive shaft as follows:
1.
Remove the 4 x bolts + nuts (17/22) with which the engine is bolted to the main frame.
2.
Disconnect the cable tree clamp under the main clutch. DO NOT disconnect the cable tree.
3.
Drop the gearbox to the transmission down and remove V-belt 2 (see also chapter 13.4)
4.
Remove the bolts/ bushes 9 that connect the pressure plate to the main frame.
5.
Disconnect the fork joint pin 7.
6.
Unscrew the lock screw 5.
7.
Slide the engine with main drive shaft out of bearing 4.
8.
When the main drive shaft is out, we can remove the V-belts of the Verti-Drain from the hub.
9.
Slide the engine further away till access to components is acceptable. NOTE. Be aware the
cable tree is still on.
Assembling the engine with main drive shaft goes the other way round. Tighten everything
carefully.
A special note is necessary for the 4 bolts/ nuts that fix the engine to the main frame. The engine
is mounted in rubbers with special washers, see Fig. 14. It is not the torque setting of the bolts
that is important, it is the length of the bolt protruding out of the self lock nut. They should
protrude 1 mm (0.04”) [ REF= 9.0 mm /0.355”]. With this setting, the rubber pretension is
perfect.
@ use only genuine bolts/ nuts/ washers/ rubbers to achieve the correct settings.
@ Before the engine is tightened, check whether the collar on the shaft lays tight against the bearing 4.
@ The pressure plate/ bearing assembly 16 may NOT load the clutch in any way.
@ Be sure slot 7 lines up with the hydraulic pump, before assembling the items together.
