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5.
The thermocouple only puts out about 30 millivolts, so any ‘loose’ connections at the gas valve will
quickly cause loss of thermocouple voltage arriving at the valve end. Using two open-ended
wrenches carefully ensure that the thermocouple is tight where it enters the interrupter, and the
interrupter is tight in the gas valve. It makes sense to loosen the thermocouple first, tighten the
interrupter in the gas valve, and then retighten the thermocouple into the interrupter.
6.
Loose electrical connections on the interrupter lugs will also keep the thermocouple voltage from
reaching the valve. Check the spade lug connections and the white wires going back to the relighter
module.
If the above connections are secure, the next steps will now test the actual operation of the burner and valve.
7.
Move the entire unit back into the van and reconnect the gas line and 12V wires. Press the
OFF
button on the front panel to reset for the next tests.
8.
Turn the external tank valve back
ON
and ensure there are no leaks at the connections on top of the
fridge. Soapy water can be used as a bubble test on the tightened fittings. A sniff test with your nose
works too.
9.
Place the burner box on the floor next to the fridge, on a piece of wood or other insulator, to protect
the vinyl flooring. Open the windows or doors, to allow exhaust gases to escape, as you will next be
lighting the burner. Be sure to have plenty of ventilation, though you will only be starting the burner
momentarily. Keep all flammable material away from the burner box.
10.
Press the
Propane
button on the front panel. You will see the igniter spark arcing onto the burner
tube, continuing until you hit the
OFF
button (or the burner ignites). Proceed once you see the
sparking.
NOTE: The best position for the igniter wire is to have the tip of the wire about 1/8” (3 mm) to the side
of the last slot of the burner. This ensures the spark intercepts the gas flow, but does not overheat and
oxidize the end of the wire in the flame. To reposition it, grab the wire with pliers, where it exits the
insulator, and use another set of pliers to bend the wire, preventing stress at the egress point on the
insulator. When finished, the igniter wire should be just outside of the blue flame, which will be tested
below.
11.
Press the
Safety Valve
button on the front panel, holding it down for at least 20 seconds. Release it to
see if the lamp stays on and the burner stays lit. If it does, you are done, you have fixed the problem.
Try it many more times before you decide it is fully functional.
Otherwise, press the
OFF
button and continue.
If the burner does not stay lit, the next steps will determine how to make a change that will ensure proper
operation.
12.
Remove the two spade-lugged wires from the interrupter and temporarily short the lugs on the
interrupter together with a jumper or conductive tool. (See the location of the ‘white’ wires in the
diagram with the voltmeter, above.)
