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(Two wrenches should always be used to prevent over torque and stripping any threads.)
16.
Slowly continue to pull the fridge out of the cabinet. It will slide on its brackets and should not scuff
the vinyl flooring. Swing the
right
rear corner out first. This allows the fins on the left to clear the
cabinet opening. (Remember to reverse this motion when reinstalling the fridge – fins first.)
17.
As the rear of the fridge clears the cabinet, reach back into the opening and unplug the 120VAC cord
from the duplex power socket on the wall of the van.
18.
Unplug the +12V and 12V Ground wires from the terminal block on the top of the fridge. The +12V
should be violet colored and the ground should be green colored. Ensure that these do not touch each
other or other metal on the van; the +12V lead is always ‘hot’. To protect the end, place tape over the
12V lead to keep it from shorting on exposed metal or wires. Set the wires aside on the floor.
19.
Pull the fridge completely out of the van and place it on a work surface. It doesn’t weigh much, so
you should be able to lift it easily, laying it on its side with the cooling fins facing upward.
Let’s proceed with the next steps to fix this problem.
So, What Is the Problem Anyway?
To solve the dilemma, you need to do a bit of examination and troubleshooting first. This requires removing
the burner box cover to get to the burner/igniter/thermocouple assembly. (Your assembly steps may differ.)
1.
Looking at the bottom of the unit, remove the galvanized plate directly under the burner box. This
requires removing a screw from the side of the burner box and two on the rear.
2.
Remove the screws around the flange of the burner box. Gently separate the box, trying to preserve
most of the glass wool gasket on either half. The gasket must be treated carefully in order to be
reused. If it splits as you open the box, try to keep from losing the material on each half, as this will
come back together, later, to reseal the joint.
