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Heat the tip of the thermocouple with a flame; a propane torch is recommended, but a cigarette
lighter, or hot soldering iron may also work. The voltmeter should begin to climb to approximately
20-30 millivolts. (Remember, that’s only 0.030 volts!) It is an approximate measurement, but the
voltage should probably be higher than 20 millivolts. If the reading does not change, the
thermocouple is probably bad. If this is the case, remove the thermocouple and retest it over an open
flame, reading with a voltmeter between the outer copper tube and the end contact, soldered to the
extreme end of the tube near the nut.
Unfortunately, Norcold decided to use a non-standard nut on the thermocouple, so the exact same
thermocouple at your local hardware or home center will not thread into the valve. (Why?!!!) If you
are brave, you can attempt to rethread the valve’s threads with the standard thread pitch, or even
riskier, try to ‘chase’ the threads on the valve, with a new, standard threaded thermocouple (not
recommended). Changing the thermocouple threading is up to you, but it is not encouraged.
The thermocouple is 48” (122 cm) long, if you intend to replace it. And of course, you can get the
original part at GoWesty.com, p/n 113737-01-717 for a whopping $44.95 US. (Yikes! The hardware
store variety costs about $11 US.)
If you find an after-market thermocouple the right length, be absolutely sure the threads on the nut
are an exact match for the threads on the Norcold gas valve. Use a thread gauge, if in doubt.
Note: Do NOT use thread sealing tape or pipe dope on these threads! The flange nut will self seal on
the ferrule, when tightened.
That takes care of the burner end. Now we'll move to the gas valve.
inside the burner box
lug closest to flange nut -
on top of the fridge
