9
Application
Suggested Tilt-Lok™
Positions*
For cuts made
at or near waist
level
Handle in lower positions allows for
more leverage when pushing the
saw through the workpiece.
For shallow
cuts made at or
near waist level
Handle in lower positions allows the
user to apply increased downward
force during shallow cuts.
For cuts
made below
the waist, as
in flooring
applications
Handle in higher positions reduce
the amount of “bending over” by
the user. Higher handle positions
allow the user to apply an increased
downward force on the saw.
For cuts made
overhead,
as in ceiling
applications
Handle in higher positions reduce
the amount of extended reach by
the user for overhead cuts. Higher
handle positions allow the user to
apply an increased upward force
on the saw.
*These are only suggested positions; the actual op-
timum cutting position may vary depending on the
actual application and user preference.
Cutting Large Panels
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they are
not correctly supported. If you attempt to cut without
leveling and properly supporting the workpiece,
the blade will tend to bind, causing KICKBACK
.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of the
cut so that you only cut through the workpiece, not
through the supports.
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select
the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for rips
4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide the bar
through the rip fence slot in either side of the shoe.
The width of the cut is the distance from the inside of
the blade to the inside edge of the rip fence. Adjust
the rip fence for the desired width, and lock the set-
ting by tightening the rip fence screws.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack
1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of
the shoe as a guide.
Cross-Cutting Wood
Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain. Select the
proper blade for your job. Advance the saw slowly
to avoid splintering the wood.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of electric shock,
check work area for hidden pipes
and wires before making pocket cuts.
Pocket Cutting
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the workpiece
when it can not be cut from an edge. We recommend
using a Sawzall
®
reciprocating saw or jig saw for this
type of cut. However, if you must use a circular saw
to make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME CAUTION.
To maintain control of the saw during pocket cutting,
keep both hands on the saw.
1. Beginning at a corner, line up the sight line with
your cutting line. Tilt the saw forward, firmly fixing
the front of the shoe on the workpiece. The blade
should be just above cutting line, but not touching it.
Raise the lower guard using the lower guard lever.
2. Pull the trigger, allowing the blade to come up to
full speed. Using the front of the shoe as a hinge
point, gradually lower the back end of the saw into
the workpiece.
3. When the shoe rests flat against workpiece, re
-
lease the lower guard lever. Advance the saw to
the far corner. Release the trigger and allow the
blade to come to a complete stop before remov-
ing it from workpiece. Repeat the above steps for
each side of the opening. Use a Sawzall
®
recip-
rocating saw, jig saw or small hand saw to finish
the corners if they are not completely cut through.
Cutting Masonry and Metal
MILWAUKEE circular saws are not intended for con-
tinuous use in cutting metal or masonry. When cutting
these materials, use the correct blade. MILWAUKEE
does not recommend using bonded abrasive wheels
on circular saws for any application.