10
This will cause the blade to fall off the wheel. Always remember to de-tension your
blade when you are done sawing for the day.
a) a) To tension or loosen the blade, see figure below.
b) Turn the adjusting bolt or stud, clockwise until 30-35 pounds of torque is achieved.
The recommended tool for this is a torque wrench. By hand, rotate blade 3-4 full revo-
lutions; this centers the blade on the wheels.
c) With gloves on, pull up on the blade at the center guard. Allow for no more than a
¼" movement up or down on the blade.
d) Blade guides must not be so tight they cause the blade to heat up. If this occurs re-
adjust guides.
e) Perform a simple test call the "Flutter" test. Put the guards on and then run the
engine at full RPM's (be sure the blade is not in a cut during this test) and watch the blade
under the blade guard. The blade must run straight, if it does not, shut the engine down
and apply more tension. Keep in mind that over tensioning will also cause the blade to
flutter. You should have attained proper tension around 30-35 pounds.
f) A tensioned blade should come off the bottom of the band wheel and run straight
across to the other band wheel, so there is NO sag in the blade between the two wheels.
Tension nut for
smaller units
(121/328)
F Setting Logs
Once the track is set, the head is in place and the blade is tensioned correctly, you are
almost ready to cut.
a) Place the log determined by the mills size, on the center of the track. Using the log
dogs secure the log to the track. Be sure to dog the log high enough (1/2" way up the log)
to ensure the log does not move. If the log is too big for the log dog to hold in place, but
your sawmill head still rolls unobstructed use the "Cheater" to hold it. (For use on the
121/328 only).
Cheater
Squaring Arm and Adjustable Dog
