Elite Greenhouses 7'5" WIDE TITAN, Instructions & Illustrations

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SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
From the main box you require: Pack of side block glazing bars marked “side”.
Pack of gutters and side angles.
Built in base side cills.
From the pack of fittings you need: Nuts and bolts and glazing beading.
PROCEDURE . For the point of this plan we have used a 12’ x 7’ side as an illustration. The proce-
dure is identical for a 6’ x 7’ and 20’ x 7’ apart from, you need more or less side block glazing bars,
nuts and bolts, glazing beading and longer or shorter gutters and built in base cill.
(Key point).
If you have purchased a partition with your greenhouse you will have 2 less roof and 2 less side
block glazing bars. These are replaced with an extra set of corner bars. You must decide where the
partition is to be situated and at that point
leave out one side block glazing bar on each of the side
frames. (Key point). The partition is constructed when the greenhouse is fully erected prior to glaz-
ing. Full details of this procedure are given in a supplementary booklet, but for the time being do
nothing apart from the omission of the side block glazing bar. If you have not purchased a partition
disregard this and future notes relating thereto.
The base is integrated with the cill for each side of the greenhouse, and is assembled onto each sub-
assembly rather than separately laid out.
1. Lay out the pieces on the ground as though you were standing
inside the house, i.e. with the gutter and built in base cill facing
downwards inside bolt channel skywards, and the beading
channels of the block glazing bar facing downwards.
(Key
point). Slide the glazing beading into the V grooves of the
block glazing bars.
2.
Slide a bolt into each end of each block glazing bar, using the
inside bolt slot, i.e. the one facing upwards, and one in the middle to enable the cantilever
brace to be fitted. (If you have bought a shelf and /or louvre to go in your greenhouse and you
intend to fit it on a side wall, use the ½” headed bolts provided with the shelf fittings these can
be inserted later).
3. Fix the combined eaves bar/gutter to the block glazing bar (s) by pushing the bolts through the
holes in the eaves bar, and securing with a nut. You do not need to tighten the nuts too much
at this stage, but they need to be tight enough to stop the bolts slipping out of the block
glazing bar.
4.
Fix the built in base cill to the middle block glazing bars by pushing the bolt through the hole
in the cill unit and tightening.
5.
Correctly position the built in base cill on the outer most block glazing bars by pushing the
bolts through the holes in the cill, but do not put the nuts on yet.
6.
Place the angled tie bars over these bolts so that they point outwards towards the ends of
eaves bar. They must be so arranged that the flat bit of the angle in each case faces towards
the middle of the house (i.e. the elongated slit will be by the eaves in one case and by the cill
in the other). (Key point). The 6’, 8’ 10’ and 12’ models have 2 angle tie bars each side, the
14’ model has 3 each side and the 16’, 18’ and 20’ has 4 each side.
Do not attach the angle tie bar to the end of the eave/gutter at this stage.