DeWalt DWS715, Original Instructions Manual, Page: 12 / 48

10
English
The two sketches in Figure P are for four sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the
proper angles for a variety of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a
shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180° divided by the number of
sides equals the miter or bevel angle.
EXAMPLES
No. Sides Angle Miter or Bevel
4 45°
5 36°
6 30°
7 25.7°
8 22.5°
9 20°
10 18°
Cutting Compound Miters (Fig. Q, R)
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time.
This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in
Figure Q.
nOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the
miter lock knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or miter.
The chart (Table 1) will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for common
compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (Figure R) of your
project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct
miter angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces
together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
EXAMPlE: To make a 4 sided box with 26° exterior angles (Angle A, Figure R), use the upper
right arc. Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get
miter angle setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or
bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces
of wood to verify settings on saw.
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW
ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")
SQUARE BOX
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
When Mitering to the Right
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the miter angle
when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the
closest mark on the miter scale to the left.
When Mitering to the Left
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the miter angle
when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest
mark on the miter scale to the right.
Cutting Base Molding (Fig. S)
ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
Straight 90° cuts:
Position the wood against the fence and hold it in place as shown in Figure S. Turn on the saw,
allow the blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
Cutting Base Molding up to 1" (25.4 mm) Thick by Up to 3-5/8" (91 mm)
Wide Vertically Against the Fence (Fig L, S)
Position molding as shown in Figure S.
All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence and bottom of the molding
against the base.
inside corner Outside corner
Left side
1. Miter left 45°
2. Save left side of cut 1. Miter right 45°
2. Save right side of cut
Right side
1. Miter right 45°
2. Save right side of cut 1. Miter left 45°
2. Save right side of cut
Material up to 3-5/8" (91 mm) can be cut as described above. For boards [up to 5-1/2"
(140 mm)] several minor concessions must be made:
When cutting a board between 3-5/8" (91 mm) and 5-1/2" (140 mm), the roller on the tip of
the guard will hang up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on the
upper side of the guard and roll the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in
Figure L. Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the guard and it will continue
to open as the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base molding 3-5/8" (91 mm) standing vertically against
the fence as in Figure S, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1" (25.4 mm) from the
end of the board. Trying to cut more than an inch will cause the saw’s gear case to interfere
with the workpiece. If you want to cut base molding between 3-5/8" (91 mm) and 5-1/2" (140
mm) vertically follow the directions on this page.
Cutting Base Molding up to 1" (25.4 mm) Thick by 3-5/8"–5-1/2"
(91 mm–140 mm) Wide Vertically Against the Fence
Position molding as shown in Figure S.
All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence
inside corner Outside corner
Left side*
1. Position molding with bottom of
molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut 1. Position molding with bottom of
molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding resting on the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save right side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save right side of cut
* NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" (25.4 mm) from the end of the molding:
cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1" (25.4 mm) longer than your final length then make the miter
cut as described above.
Cutting Base Molding up to 1.8" (45 mm) Thick by up to 7-11/16"
(195.6 mm) Wide Laying Flat and Using the Bevel Feature
All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw.
inside corner Outside corner
Left side
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Cutting Crown Molding
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In
order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added
together, equal exactly 90°. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section
that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the
wall) of 38°.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at 31.6° left for cutting crown molding
at the proper angle and bevel stop pawl at 33.9° left. There is also a mark on the bevel scale at
33.9°.
The
Bevel Setting/Type of Cut chart gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The
numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set
on your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90°, you will have to fine tune
your settings anyway.
PRETEsTing WiTh sCRAP MATERiAl is EXTREMElY iMPORTAnT!
Instructions for Cutting Crown Molding Laying Flat and Using the
Compound Features (Fig. A, T)
1. Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table ( 34 (Fig. T).
2. The settings below are for All Standard (U.S.) crown molding with 52° and 38° angles.
BEVEl sETTing TYPE OF CUT
33.9°
lEFT siDE, insiDE CORnER
1. Top of molding against fence
2. Miter table set right 31.6°
3. Save left end of cut