Cub Cadet CS59L Operator'S Manual Download Page 4

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ADJUSTING THE CHAIN TENSION

The chain must be tensioned whenever the flats on the drive links hang out of the
bar groove (Fig. 25). Check for proper chain tension before starting the unit and
periodically during operation.

NOTE:

A new chain tends to stretch. Check the chain tension frequently and

tighten as required.

Stop the motor, make sure the switch lock is in the locked or OFF position
and remove the battery from the unit. Refer to

Removing the Battery

in the

Assembly Instructions

section.

Slightly loosen the bar cover bolt (Fig. 26).

Rotate the chain-tensioning bolt (Fig. 27) clockwise with a hex wrench (Allen
wrench) to tension the chain. The desired tension depends on the
temperature of the chain:

•

Cold Chain Tensioning

- A cold chain is correctly tensioned when there is

no sag on the underside of the guide bar and the chain seats snugly
against the guide bar with the drive links in the bar groove.

•

Warm Chain Tensioning

- During normal operation, the temperature of the

chain will increase. The drive links of a correctly tensioned warm chain will
hang approximately 1/16 inch (1.3 mm) out of the bar groove (Fig. 28).

Once adjusted, lift the tip of the guide bar up to check for proper tension
(Fig. 29). If the chain is still too loose, release the tip of the guide bar and turn
the chain-tensioning bolt 1/2 turn clockwise. Repeat this process until the
desired tension is achieved.

NOTE:

If the chain is too tight, it will not rotate. To loosen the chain, turn the

chain-tensioning bolt 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Ensure that the chain can be
turned by hand without binding (Fig. 30).

Hold the tip of the guide bar up and rotate the bar cover bolt clockwise to secure.

REMOVING/REPLACING THE GUIDE BAR AND CHAIN

Use only a low-kickback chain on this saw. This fast-cutting chain provides
kickback reduction when properly maintained.

NOTE:

When replacing the guide bar and chain, use only manufacturer

suggested replacement parts. The use of any other parts may create a hazard
or cause product damage and will VOID the warranty.

Removing the Old Guide Bar and Chain

Make sure the switch lock is in the locked or OFF position and remove the
battery from the unit.

Rotate the bar cover bolt counterclockwise and remove the bar cover bolt,
sleeve and bar cover (Fig. 26).

Remove the guide bar and chain from the mounting surface.

Remove the old chain from the guide bar.

Installing the New Guide Bar and Chain

Lay out the new saw chain in a loop and straighten any kinks. The cutters on
the top of the guide bar should face toward the guide bar tip in the direction
of chain rotation (Fig. 31). If they face backward, turn the loop over.

Place the chain drive links into the bar groove as shown (Fig. 32).

NOTE:

Make sure the chain is correctly installed and the cutters are facing in the

correct direction (Fig. 31).

Position the chain so there is a loop at the back of the guide bar.

Hold the chain in position on the guide bar and place the loop around the
drive sprocket.

Fit the guide bar flush against the mounting surface so that the bar stud is in
the bar stud slot.

NOTE:

When placing the guide bar on the bar stud, ensure that the chain-

tensioning pin is in the chain tension pin hole (Fig. 26).

Replace the bar cover, sleeve and bar cover bolt. To tighten, rotate the bar
cover bolt clockwise with a hex wrench (Allen wrench).

NOTE:

Tighten the bar cover bolt to finger tightness only. The guide bar should

still be free to move for chain tension adjustment.

Adjust the chain tension. Refer to the

Adjusting the Chain Tension

instructions above.

Flats

Fig. 25

Approx. 1/16”

(1.3 mm)

Fig. 28

REMOVING BUTTRESS ROOTS

A buttress root is a large root extending from the trunk of the tree above the
ground. Remove large buttress roots prior to felling (Fig. 16).

Make the horizontal cut into the buttress first, followed by the vertical cut.

Remove the resulting loose section from the work area.

Remove any remaining large buttress roots. Then follow the correct tree
felling procedure, as stated in the

Felling

section.

BUCKING

Bucking is the process of cutting a fallen tree into desired log lengths.

•

Work slowly, while maintaining a proper grip and stance.

•

Cut only one log at a time.

•

Keep a clear cutting area. Make sure that no objects can contact the guide
bar nose and chain during cutting; this can cause kickback. Refer to

Understanding Kickback

in the

Safety Information

section.

•

When bucking on a slope, always stand on the uphill side of the log. To
maintain complete control of the chain saw when cutting through the log,
release the cutting pressure near the end of the cut without relaxing the grip
on the chain saw handles. Do not let the chain contact the ground. After
completing the cut, wait for the saw chain to stop before moving the chain
saw. Always stop the motor before moving from log to log.

NOTE:

If possible, the log should be supported so that the end to be cut off is

not resting on the ground. The best way to hold a log while bucking is to use
a sawhorse. When this is not possible, the log should be raised and
supported by the limb stumps or by using supporting logs. Be sure the log
being cut is securely supported.

Bucking Logs Under Stress

Make the first bucking cut 1/3 of the way through the log and finish with a 2/3 cut
on the opposite side. The log will tend to bend as it is being cut. The saw may
become pinched or hung in the log if the first cut is deeper than 1/3 of the
diameter of the log. Give special attention to logs under stress to prevent the bar
and chain from pinching.

When the log is supported on one end (Fig. 17): First, cut from the bottom
(underbuck) 1/3 of the way through the log to avoid splintering. Second, cut
from above (overbuck) to meet the first cut and avoid pinching.

When the log is supported on both ends (Fig. 18): First, overbuck 1/3 of the
way through the log to avoid splintering. Second, underbuck to meet the first
cut and avoid pinching.

Bucking Fully Supported Logs

When the log is supported along the entire length, cut from the top (overbuck),
being careful to avoid cutting into the ground (Fig. 19).

Overbucking

Begin on the top side of the log with the bottom of the saw against the log; exert
light pressure downward. During overbucking, the saw will tend to pull away. Be
prepared for this reaction and hold the saw firmly to maintain control. (Fig. 19)

Underbucking

Begin on the under side of the log with the top of the saw against the log; exert
light pressure upward. During underbucking, the saw will tend to push back. Be
prepared for this reaction and hold the saw firmly to maintain control. (Fig. 20)

Bucking with a Wedge

If the wood diameter is large enough to insert a soft wooden or plastic bucking
wedge without touching the chain, one should be used to hold the cut open to
prevent pinching. (Fig. 21)

LIMBING

Limbing is the process of removing branches from a fallen tree (Fig. 22).

•

Work slowly, while maintaining a proper grip and stance.

•

Leave the larger support limbs under the tree to keep the tree off the ground
while cutting.

•

Limbs should be cut one at a time. Remove the cut limbs from the work area
often to help keep the work area clean and safe.

•

Branches under tension should be cut from the bottom up to avoid binding
the chain saw.

•

Keep the tree between you and the chain saw while limbing. Cut from the side
of the tree opposite the branch that is being cut.

PRUNING

Pruning is the process of trimming limbs from a live tree (Fig. 23).

•

Work slowly, while maintaining a proper grip and stance.

•

Do not cut from a ladder; this is extremely dangerous. Leave this operation for
professionals.

•

Do not cut above chest height, as a saw held higher is difficult to control
during kickback.

•

When pruning trees it is important not to make the finishing cut next to the
main limb or trunk until the limb is cut further out to reduce the weight. This
prevents stripping the bark from the main member.

Underbuck the branch 1/3 through for your first cut.

The second cut should overbuck to drop the branch off.

Make the finishing cut smoothly and neatly against the main member so the
bark will grow back to seal the wound.

CUTTING SPRINGPOLES

A springpole is any log, branch, rooted stump, or sapling that is bent under
tension by other wood so that it springs back if the wood holding it is cut or
removed (Fig. 24). On a fallen tree, a rooted stump has a high potential of
springing back to the upright position during the bucking cut to separate the log
from the stump.

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Fig. 16

Fig. 19

Cut - Vertical

Cut -

Horizontal

Loose

Section

Fig. 20

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

Fig. 23

Fig. 22

Overbucking

Underbucking

Log Supported at One End

Log Supported at Both Ends

First Cut - 1/3 Diameter

Finishing Cut

Load

First Cut - 1/3 Diameter

Finishing Cut

Fig. 24

Fig. 26

Fig. 27

Fig. 31

Fig. 32

Fig. 29

Fig. 30

Load

First Cut

1/3 Diameter

Finishing Cut

Second Cut

Cut Limbs One at a Time and Leave Support

Limbs Under the Tree Until the Log is Cut

Springpole

WARNING:

If the limbs to be pruned are above chest

height, hire a professional to perform the pruning.

WARNING:

Watch for springpoles; these can strike the

operator, causing serious personal injury.

Fig. 21

Wedge

WARNING:

Before inspecting, cleaning, or servicing the

unit, stop the motor, wait for all moving parts to stop and
remove the battery. Failure to follow these instructions can
result in serious personal injury or property damage.

WARNING:

To avoid possible serious injury, never touch or

adjust the chain while the motor is running. The saw chain is
very sharp; always wear protective gloves when performing
maintenance on the chain.

CAUTION:

A chain tensioned while warm, may be too tight

upon cooling. Check the “cold tension” before next use.

MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Bar Stud

Guide

Bar

Saw Chain

Bar Cover