PI-1010A
Page 26
DATE PRINTED: 4/7/11
Version 1.05
Maintenance
GASKET INSPECTION
Inspect the gasket for physical deterioration, missing sections or obvious leakage. The stove front should make a groove
in the gasket material - one side of the groove (toward the inside) will often be dark or black, and the other side (toward
the outside) should be light or white. Dark smudges on the outside of the groove may indicate a smoke leak. If the
groove is very shallow or missing, or if there is a heavy ash or creosote deposit along the bottom edge of the gasket, it
may need to be replaced. Frayed or broken gasket material, or a gasket that is hard and unyielding, will also indicate
need for replacement. Any time a piece of gasket is missing, or is broken anywhere, the entire gasket must be replaced.
To check the gasket further, insert a piece of paper into the door opening and close and latch the door. Obvious
resistance should be felt when pulling the paper out. Repeat this check several times around the perimeter of the door.
GASKET REPLACEMENT
1.
If the door gasket is to be replaced, be sure you have some 5/8” fiber glass gasket material on hand to re-install. See
your Blaze King dealer for replacement gaskets.
2.
Be sure the fire is out and the stove has cooled down. The door does not have to be removed from the stove.
3.
With a pair of pliers, pull the old door gasket out of the channel and dispose of it.
4.
Thoroughly clean out the channel so the new silicone adhesive will adhere and the gasket will fit smoothly
5.
Run a small bead of furnace cement or a high temperature silicone adhesive (such as G.E. Silicone Sealer, or the
equivalent) along the center of the channel. DO NOT USE HOUSEHOLD SILICONE CAULKING. High temperature
silicone may be obtained from your Blaze King dealer or most auto parts stores.
6.
Start the new gasket in the lower right corner. Do not stretch or cut the gasket. Distribute the gasket evenly around
the frame.
7.
Close the Loading Door and allow the adhesive to dry.
8.
Door adjustment: The door seal is adjusted by turning the latch catch on the stove in or out.
NOTE:
THERE IS A
LOCK NUT ON THE LATCH THREAD ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE STOVE. LOOSEN THIS LOCK NUT FIRST.
thread the latch catch in or out to properly adjust the door seal. The gasket should be just tight enough to pass
inspection. (see step 9) Do not over tighten the latch making the door difficult to latch.
9.
Check the fit of the door gasket. Insert a narrow strip of paper into the door opening and close and latch the door.
Obvious resistance should be felt when pulling the paper out. Repeat this check several times around the perimeter
of the door.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR, TESTING
Test the catalyst in your Blaze King as follows:
Build a fire using the same technique described on pg 23. Leave the thermostat knob on a medium (#2) setting. When
the fire is well established (within one to three hours) turn the thermostat knob to 1.5 or 1.75. A properly operating
catalyst will remain active, and the catalyst thermometer will remain in the "active" zone until the wood load is mostly
consumed. A "tired" or "dead" catalyst will go out completely and the thermometer needle will fall into the "inactive" zone
when the thermostat is set on 1.75 or lower . Repeat this procedure several times over several days. (Remember that
the catalyst thermometer has a built-in lag of 4-8 minutes.) If the catalyst does not go into the active zone after several
test burns, it may require cleaning or replacement. It is also possible that the thermometer may not be reading
accurately. Before replacing the catalyst, read "Thermometer", on page 28.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR, CLEANING
Under certain conditions, ash particles may build up on the face of the catalyst. These particle are visible when the fire
is out or when the catalyst is in the glowing stage. Any deposit on the face of the catalyst should be removed. Wait until
the fire is out and the stove is cold. Brushing the catalyst with an old toothbrush will remove some deposits. Passing a
plastic vacuum cleaner wand or brush near the face of the catalyst will also remove most deposits. (
Caution: Hot ash in
a vacuum cleaner bag can ignite causing a fire
.) Never scrape the catalyst with any hard tool. Some stove owners
have run pipe cleaner through every individual cell of the catalyst. This is not necessary and may actually do more harm
than good. Limit cleaning to the face of the catalyst only.
