background image

73

Buttonholes

no. 63
Sewing the first bead

 

sew first bead forwards, stop at required length

programming the Buttonhole

 

programming is done as for the other buttonholes

auto Buttonhole

The sewing computer sews automatically:

 

round part of buttonhole

 

second bead in reverse

 

bartack and securing stitches, stops and automatically 

goes to the beginning of the buttonhole

Hand-look buttonhole

Stitch counter Buttonhole

all Buttonhole types

Sewing the first bead

 

sew first bead forwards, stop at required length

 

press the Quick Reverse button on head frame

Bartack, Second Bead in reverse

 

bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse

 

stop sewing computer at the first stitch

 

press Quick Reverse button on head frame

Bartack, Securing Stitches

Double sewn keyhole buttonholes

 

keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on 

thick fabrics – the first lap is stitched with a 

longer stitch length than the second

 

do not move the fabric after sewing the first 

buttonhole; just tap the foot control once to 

sew buttonhole again

 

the first bead (left) is sewn forwards, the 

second bead (right) is sewn in reverse

 

the stitch counter buttonhole cannot be 

saved in the long term Memory

 

attach foot no. 3C

 

the sewing computer sews the top bartack, secures 

stitches and stops automatically

 

«

auto 1,2,3

»

 appear on the screen

 

the buttonhole is saved

Each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically.

 

032298.53.04_1204_B820_EN

Summary of Contents for 820

Page 1: ...ure and the best of the past With the BERNINA 820 you will be able to sew faster smarter longer and more creatively and with more enjoyment We have put all the dreams that our customers have shared with us into this product BERNINA wants you to fully enjoy the enormous possibilities that the BERNINA 820 sewing system offers you To do so you must learn all the wonderful features of the product Ther...

Page 2: ...hen remove the plug from the outlet To unplug pull the plug not the cord 13 Turn all controls OFF to the 0 position when making any adjustments in the needle area such as changing or threading the needle presser foot etc 14 Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manu...

Page 3: ...Accessory Preparation Functions Settings Main Stitch Categories BERNINA World Maintenance Troubleshooting Sewing Stitch Patterns Index 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 4: ...thur Manual Design Concept Erika Vollenweider Czibulya Typesetting Layout DTP Susanne Ribi Erika Vollenweider Czibulya Copyright 2008 BERNINA International AG CH Steckborn Very important Risk of damage Helpful tips All rights reserved For technical and product improvement reasons the sewing computer s features parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time The a...

Page 5: ...ng the Bobbin 16 Slide on Table 17 Thread Cutter 17 Threading the Upper Thread 18 Double Triple Needle 19 Thread Guide and Lubricating Unit 20 As a thread guide eyelet 20 As a thread lubricator 20 Assembly 20 Radial Thread Guide 21 Various Options of Application 21 Changing the Needle 22 Changing the Presser Foot 22 Stitch plates 23 Feed Dog and Fabric Feed 23 Sewing with the Height Compensation T...

Page 6: ...obbins 2 adjustable guides 3 wire threader for threading cording for bobbin play 4 tweezers 5 2 nets 6 cording attachment 7 magnifying glass adapter 8 small screwdriver gray 9 touch pen 10 seam ripper 11 lint brush 12 multifunction tool 13 manual threader 14 spool disc small 15 holder for king size spools cone holder 16 height compensating tool 17 needle pack 130 705H 18 lubricator 19 monitoring m...

Page 7: ...wing home decorating tailoring etc All the presser feet are shown in the enclosed accessory catalog They are available at your BERNINA dealer 1C Reverse pattern foot 1D Reverse pattern foot 3A Automatic buttonhole foot with slide 4D Zipper foot 5 Blindstitch foot 20C Open embroidery foot 37D Patchwork foot 42 BSR foot 8 Jeans foot 50 Walking foot 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 8: ...8 Accessory Box on the back of the box pull both extensions out until they click into place Accessory Free Standing 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 9: ... a compartment for bobbin holders C and presser feet D to remove a bobbin press the compartment holder E lightly buttonhole foot with slide no 3A can be stored in the left compart ment F store the needle range supplied in the special compartment G Lay out A B C D E F G 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 10: ...10 Sewing Computer Details 1 12 15 11 10 14 13 2 5 8 7 4 6 9 3 16 17 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 26 27 28 22 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 17 16 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 11: ...scope 18 Bobbin pre tension 19 Slide on table socket 20 Darning hoop connection 21 FHS Free Hand System connection 22 Slide speed control 23 Automatic needle threader 24 Needle stop up down button 25 Presser foot up down button 26 Securing button 27 Pattern end button 28 Automatic thread cutter 29 Start Stop Button 30 Quick reverse button 31 Special accessories port 32 BSR connection 33 BERNINA Du...

Page 12: ... presser foot is raised and the feed dog is lowered simultaneously Tension is released the feed dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn If the sewing computer is kept in a cold room place it in a warm room for 1 hour before use USA Canada only The sewing computer has a polarized plug one blade wider than the other To reduce the risk of electrical shock this plug is intended to fit in a p...

Page 13: ...must only be replaced by a technician Take the sewing computer to your BERNINA dealer Sewing Speed sewing speed is controlled by pressure on the foot control Raise or Lower the Needle entire foot rests comfortably on Foot Pedal tap the Foot Control with your heel to raise or lower the needle Cable tidy wind the cable around the reel insert the cable end plug into A When sewing unwind the cable to ...

Page 14: ...hat all the parts snap into place swing spool pin to the right until it is engaged This ensures a good overall view and access to the spool pins eyelet A is used when winding a bobbin A You can preselect a bobbin fill of 25 50 or 100 Treat the bobbins with care Keep the white sensor surfaces free of scratches or stains to ensure correct functioning of the lower thread indicator Store the bobbins i...

Page 15: ...n of the arrows and pull any excess thread in the direction of the arrows cut off on the thread cutter 5 select the bobbin filling standard 100 Start field touch bobbin symbol adjust the winding speed with the or Icon or with the stitch width knob winding process stops as soon as the selected fill percentage is reached remove the bobbin and pull the thread over the thread cutter the screen is clos...

Page 16: ...the right into slit A then left under the spring pull thread over thread cutter B and cut close the bobbin cover slowly the hook swings back to the rear A B Only remove the bobbin if the hook is at the end position threading position It is not necessary to bring the bobbin thread up through the hole in the stitch plate as the loose end is just the right length to start sewing Check the threading p...

Page 17: ...ft Seam Guide press the release button and insert into the groove underside of table from left or right can be moved over the entire table length Scale 0 corresponds to the center needle position Thread Cutter on Head Frame pull both threads from back to front over the cutter and down threads release automatically as soon as the first stitch is sewn at bobbin winder after winding bobbin pull threa...

Page 18: ...sage appears close the message with and start again if the thread has been threaded correctly the Start Stop Button is illuminated green Manual threading follow the two first steps as described above touch Manual threading icon on screen press Automatic threading button then thread the needle by hand when using unruly threads slip the net over the upper thread spool large net for large spools smal...

Page 19: ... touch the icon Manual Threading on the threading animation screen Next touch the illuminated automatic threading button using the manual threader in your accessory kit manually thread the left needle and then the right needle Triple Needle in the Security Program select triple needle place a thread spool on each spool pin and thread the respective guides on the telescopic rod thread as usual guid...

Page 20: ...ead spool onto the middle or rear spool pin as usual Then guide the thread through the respective eyelet of the telescopic rod and the eyelet of the thread guide and lubricating unit hold the thread with both hands pull it in to the slit of the felt pulling it down as far as it goes so that it ll stay in the felt during machine operation Fig 3 continue and complete threading the sewing computer as...

Page 21: ...allic lively or even wounded thread spools place thread spool on spool pin and guide thread through thread guide Then run thread via middle eyelet of telescopic rod Continue threading the sewing computer as normal during the initial threading of the sewing computer and when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the threader button i...

Page 22: ...needle with the mulitfunction tool as far as it will go tighten needle clamp screw Changing the Presser Foot raise the needle and presser foot turn power switch to 0 off Releasing the Presser Foot raise the clamping lever remove presser foot Attaching the Presser Foot guide the presser foot upwards over the cone touch the clamping lever down Turn the handwheel to lower the needle in order to get b...

Page 23: ...dle turn power switch to 0 off press the stitch plate down at the right back corner B until it flips up remove stitch plate Replacing the Stitch Plate place the stitch plate over the opening A and press down until it clicks into place 5 5mm Optional accessory 9mm With each stitch the feed dog moves forward one step The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected With a very sho...

Page 24: ...ol The feed dog works accurately if the presser foot is level If the presser foot is at an angle when sewing over a thick seam the feed dog cannot grip The fabric may jam To level the presser foot as required place one two or three height compensating plates behind the needle under the presser foot To level the front of the foot place one or more plates under the right of the presser foot close to...

Page 25: ...thread it properly Basic settings are applied automatically when a stitch pattern or program is selected Optimal upper thread tension is set in the factory For this Metrosene threads 100 2 weight Mettler Switzerland are used in the bobbin and also in the upper thread When using decorative thread tension adjustments may be neccessary to receive optimal stitching results Altering the Tension touch t...

Page 26: ...oothly down the long groove on the front of the needle Thread Too Thin or Needle Too Thick The thread has too much clearance in the groove there may be skipped stitches or damage to the thread Thread Too Thick or Needle Too Thin The thread rubs on the edges of the groove and can get jammed This can break the thread Needle Thread Needle Thread and Fabric Care should be taken when matching the needl...

Page 27: ...arf S Needle point here e g medium ball point 70 Needle size shank diameter Fabric Thread Needle size Fine fabrics Fine thread darning thread embroidery thread 70 75 Medium weight fabrics Normal thread 80 90 Heavy weight fabrics 100 110 120 Needle 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 28: ...Fine sharp point Straight and topstitching Embroidery 130 705 H SUK 70 90 Large eye slight ball point Embroidery on all natural and synthetic fabrics Metafil 130 705 H MET 75 90 or H SUK 90 100 Large eye Sewing with metallic threads Cordonnet Topstitching 130 705 H N 80 100 Small ball point long eye Topstitching with thick thread Wing needle hemstitch needle 130 705 HO 100 120 Wide needle wing Hem...

Page 29: ...eaning the sewing computer 46 Cleaning 46 Cleaning the needle threading mechanism 46 Lubricating the hook 46 Calibrating buttonhole foot no 3A 47 Tutorial 48 Overview of Topics 48 Creative Consultant 49 General 49 Help Program 50 General 50 Stitch Pattern 50 Functions 50 Balance 51 Balance Description 51 Practical and Decorative Stitches 51 Corrections 51 BERNINA Dual Feed 52 Balance Presser Foot ...

Page 30: ...e setup program these are sewn before the thread is cut Automatic Needle Threader touch button completes the threading process and threads the needle Needle Stop Up Down In the default setting the needle symbol is displayed above the presser foot indicator touch the button briefly the needle is raised or lowered as when tapping the foot control with your heel touch the button longer the needle is ...

Page 31: ... so the fabric can be easily positioned When sewing starts the foot is lowered on to the material touch the button again the presser foot is raised and the Feed dog is simultaneously lowered Automatic Securing Program touch the button before the sewing starts or during sewing single patterns are secured at the end with the selected number of stitches programmed touch the button before starting a c...

Page 32: ... stitches C Alphabets D Buttonholes E Quilt stitches F Personal Program G History System Settings H clr Delete I Setup Program J Tutorial K Creative Consultant L Help M ECO Stitch Display N Stitch Pattern selections N A B C D E F G I J K L M H 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 33: ...g Area Q Display of the stitch pattern selected Functions R Balance S Thread tension T Pressure foot pressure U Lower Feed Dog V Securing function W Pattern repeat X Security program Y Stitch selection by number Z Time Alarm Q R S T U V W X Y Z O P 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 34: ...ops at the end of a stitch or stitch combination after the number of repeats selected Manual Buttonhole special screen appears sew manual buttonhole in 5 or 7 steps depending on buttonhole type Programming Buttonhole Length icon is automatically highlighted in blue when a buttonhole is selected set the buttonhole length with the Quick Reverse Button or directly program the length displayed by pres...

Page 35: ... thread tension the respective value is visible in the icon Presser foot pressure increase or decrease the presser foot pressure using the multifunction knobs the respective value is visible in the icon Time Alarm set the current time hh mm in the upper part of the screen using the and icons touch the alarm button in the lower part of the display set the alarm time using the and or the multifuncti...

Page 36: ...ption of the function concerned in each case Selection Menu 1 Display screen settings 2 Sewing settings 3 Information 4 Display screen calibration 5 Monitoring settings 6 Reset basic settings 7 Update sewing computer 8 Cleaning the sewing computer Customized alterations are saved even when the sewing computer is switched off Alterations can be re programmed at any time The System Settings can be c...

Page 37: ...ch length knob or the or icon Welcome Text create or change Welcome Text 3 space bar is at the bottom of the letter keys welcome text 4 appears in the text icon above the letter keys touch the text icon text entered is completely deleted text entered is deleted from right to left Wallpaper Select desired screen wallpaper choose from different images use the scroll icons to browse the wallpaper var...

Page 38: ... sewing Raise Presser Foot if function is activated 6 the presser foot is raised after securing if function is not activated the presser foot stays down 5 6 1 2 3 4 Motor Speed alter maximum sewing speed 1 the number in the bar is the stitches per minute the basic value is indicated by a dark bar Thread Tension alter the basic setting 0 of the upper thread tension 2 by plus or minus 20 0 basic set...

Page 39: ...place or function 9 for forward securing stitches two to six securing stitches can be programmed standard no securing stitches programmed Presser foot position when needle stop down with activated icon 1 the presser foot remains down when the sewing computer stops with activated icon 2 the presser foot is raised enough to pivot the fabric hover position with activated icon 3 the presser foot is ra...

Page 40: ...o the needle types Language scroll through the languages by touching the arrow icons and select the language required Dealer Details by pressing the respective gray bar the following information about your BERNINA dealer can be entered store name last name first name telephone number website or e mail address Information Setup Program 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 41: ... last servicing by the Bernina dealer are displayed Service Data Service data of the actual condition of your sewing computer can be saved on a USB stick and sent to your authorized BERNINA dealer insert the USB stick into your sewing computer touch LOG after the data is saved remove the USB stick Setup Program 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 42: ... all three positions shown are calibrated touch to save settings The calibration screen can also be opened this way switch sewing computer off to 0 touch the two needle positioning buttons on the front panel and keep them pressed switch sewing computer on to I and as soon as the calibration screen is opened release the two buttons Setup Program 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 43: ...unds Monitoring Functions The following monitoring functions can be activated or deactivated Upper thread indicator Lower thread indicator Optimum interlocking of upper and lower thread Sewing without thread blue with open eye function active gray with closed eye function inactive the sound type for the monitoring functions is set in the audio settings for function Sewing without thread don t thre...

Page 44: ...ll B Reset Sewing touch the bar whose settings are to be returned to the basic settings confirm with the previous screen appears touch until the selection menu appears Delete User Data Pressing bar 2 C Sewing Personal Program touch the bar confirm with the data is deleted and the previous screen appears touch until the selection menu appears Reset Delete User Data 2 1 A B 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN...

Page 45: ...e at least 10MB the correct software version is on the stick the data and settings are accepted if the update was successful a message appears and the sewing computer is ready to sew again if the update cannot be started or if there are problems during the update process an error message appears Do not remove the BERNINA USB stick until there is a message which indicates the end of the update Upda...

Page 46: ...the right carefully remove any thread remnants with the tweezers touch field 3 the automatic thread cutter is re initialized and then ready for operation Cleaning the needle threading mechanism clean the needle threading mechanism according to the instructions and animation Lubricating the hook lubricating the hook according to the instructions and animation 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 47: ...reen on the head frame the buttonhole foot will move forward and backward buttonhole foot will calibrate and sewing computer will indicate that the calibration has been successful the buttonhole foot is now set for this particular sewing computer and should only be used with this one 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 48: ...ight corner touch the animation with your finger or the touchscreen pen and travel to the right or left the playing of the animation is controlled manually now touch the animation again to switch back to automatic playing mode use these two icons to go to the previous or next page touch to close the Tutorial screen the last active screen appears The Tutorial provides information and explanations a...

Page 49: ... Blindhem Buttonholes Zippers Decorative stitching Machine quilting Free motion stitching Appliqué select the desired sewing technique e g buttonhole if the desired technique cannot be found on this list select a related technique Recommendations recommendations for the fabric selected and the desired technique are shown links to the respective topics in the Tutorial are displayed additional infor...

Page 50: ...be opened touch the icon select the desired stitch pattern or the desired function Stitch Pattern This screen displays the following information name of the stitch pattern suitable materials main areas of application Functions This screen displays the following information function name function explanation main areas of application select to close the Help screen the last active screen appears 03...

Page 51: ...ecessary to suit the fabric Practical and Decorative Stitches in the left portion of the screen the stitch is displayed in its original form as programmed in the right portion of the screen the alterations made are directly visible the corrections can be made while sewing with opened screen Corrections the stitch sewn on the fabric e g the Honeycomb stitch opens up and it does not look correct tur...

Page 52: ... out the feeding speed difference between the two layers changes made to the selected pattern or the dual feed are deleted select to save the changes and close the screen select to close the screen the original settings are kept Presser Foot Pressure Settings Adjusting the Pressure the presser foot pressure scale appears on touching the Presser Foot Pressure icon turning the stitch width or stitch...

Page 53: ...mode touch the button screen goes dark power consumption is reduced and the sewing light turned off this mode also acts as a child safety feature nothing can be selected on screen buttons are locked and the sewing computer cannot be started touch button again sewing computer is ready for use 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 54: ...54 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 55: ...ctions 69 Manual 5 or 7 Step Buttonhole 69 Balance 70 Automatic 71 Direct Entry Length 71 Button Measurement 71 Programming 72 Automatic Buttonhole 72 Standard and Stretch Buttonhole 72 Round and keyhole Buttonholes 72 Hand look Buttonhole 73 Stitch Counter Buttonhole 73 All Buttonhole Types 73 In Long Term Memory 74 Button Sew On Program 74 Eyelet Program 75 Sewing Eyelets 75 Punching Eyelets 75 ...

Page 56: ...ber will be indicated in bar 2 with 3 question marks 1 2 3 4 5 A B C H I D E F G J Selecting a Presser Foot any selected stitch pattern appears together with the optimum presser foot in the stitch altering area attach the recommended presser foot touch the Presser Foot Selection icon top left in the screen in the opened presser foot category select the icon that shows the attached presser foot and...

Page 57: ...verse button sewing computer sews forwards Temporary Altered Stitch Memory The altered stitch memory can hold as many stitch alterations as needed Stitch length Stitch width Needle position Pattern extend Mirror images Long stitch function Thread tension Balance Pattern repeat 1 9x For All Stitch Types and Materials altered stitch length stitch width and needle position are automatically saved as ...

Page 58: ...g decorative stitching Honeycomb Stitch Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics visible seams hems linens and some types of mending Blindstitch For most types of fabric blind hems shell edging in soft jerseys and fine fabrics decora tive seams Double Overlock For all types of knit overlock stitch finished edge Super Stretch Stitch For highly elastic fabrics Highly elastic open seam for all type...

Page 59: ...h Long Stitch Reinforced seams in heavy fabrics visible seams and topstitching Single Straight Stitch As a connecting stitch between two individual decorative stitch patterns Typically used in Combi Mode Three Single Straight Stitches As a connecting stitch between two individual decorative stitch patterns in a combination Darning Stitch Use for darning in conjunction with the Permanent Reverse fu...

Page 60: ...itch or with a few satin stitches are particularly suitable for medium weight fabrics e g decorative stitch no 135 more complex decorative stitches programmed with satin stitches are well suited to heavy weight fabrics e g decorative stitch no 401 Perfect Stitch Formation use the same thread weight for upper and lower threads for a perfect stitch formation reinforce the fabric piece on the wrong s...

Page 61: ...e the Quick Reverse button on the head frame to set the length of section 2 once the length is programmed the field is turned off inactive gray after the second section is programmed the third section is automatically sewn and the sewing computer stops to program a new length reselect the field Programming the Length of Section 2 by Entering mm touch the icon program the length with the stitch wid...

Page 62: ...tally touch Long Stitch function the sewing computer sews every second stitch in the stitch sequence Amazing effects can be created by combining decorative stitches and functions Mirroring Decorative Stitches Long Stitch Function touch the Pattern Extend function once or several times the stitch pattern selected is extended i e stretched 2 5 times while retaining the consistency of the stitch some...

Page 63: ...ed to match the needle selected the best effects are achieved with simple stitch patterns Double Triple or Wing Needle touch Pattern extend function one or more times additionally touch the Long Stitch function Pattern Extend with Long Stitch Security Program icon must be manually reset to deactivate security remains engaged after sewing computer is turned off 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 64: ...tion the patterns alternate original and mirrored select Combi Mode Combi Mode is opened allowing you to create pattern combinations Complete combination mirrored sideways touch the Multifunction icon touch the Mirror image left right icon the whole combination is mirrored left right Add the Securing function There are various options for securing stitch patterns automatically touch securing funct...

Page 65: ...ttering use the same thread color for upper and lower threads use stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric to reinforce sewing project use additional water soluble stabilizer on the right side of pile or longfibre fabrics e g wool velvet etc for lightweight fabrics more simple lettering types are suitable programmed with straight stitches such as double block letters all capital letters numbers ...

Page 66: ... in Stitch Altering Area etc Inserting Letters a letter is always inserted above the cursor cursor must be scrolled up arrow to insert an additional letter at the beginning of lettering activate desired place by selecting required letter in Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it select new letter letter is inserted above cursor Deleting Letters a letter is always deleted above the cursor activate de...

Page 67: ...s in black upper case is activated again Select Lower Case Change Size touch the Alphabet Size icon number 2 is highlighted blue the letter is reduced to approx 6 mm touch Alphabet Size again larger size is activated again number 1 is highlighted blue More functions are described in the chapter Combining Decorative Stitches with Functions pages 62 63 Creating Combinations see page 81 032298 53 04_...

Page 68: ...rafts Keyhole Buttonhole with Normal Bartack For heavy weight non stretch fabrics jackets coats leisure wear Straight Stitch Buttonhole Program for staystitching buttonholes for pocket openings reinforcing buttonholes especially for buttonholes in leather and imitation leather Button Sew on Program Sewing on buttons with 2 and 4 holes Eyelet with Small Zigzag Opening for cords and narrow ribbons b...

Page 69: ...ead touch 4 the sewing computer sews top bartack and stops automatically touch 5 sewing computer sews the second bead stop sewing touch 6 the sewing computer sews bottom bartack and stops automatically touch 7 sewing computer secures stitches and stops automati cally Manual 5 or 7 Step Buttonhole Buttonhole Slit Width select buttonhole touch Buttonhole Slit Width icon set the cutting space width u...

Page 70: ...s follows straight stitch until the sewing computer changes to the keyhole or eye then stop sewing touch the Balance icon and adjust the picture in the right portion of the Balance screen with the stitch length knob to match the sewn buttonhole If keyhole is distorted to the right picture C turn stitch length knob counterclockwise If keyhole is distorted to the left picture D turn stitch length kn...

Page 71: ...lates the length of the buttonhole directly from the diameter of the button 2mm are automatically entered for the button thickness hold the button against the left side of the screen using the multifunction knobs place the vertical black line flush on the right side of the button the button size in mm is visible above the button between two arrows e g 14mm remove the button from the screen confirm...

Page 72: ... computer sews automatically straight stitches in reverse first bartack 2nd bead forwards 2nd bartack secures stitches stops and automatically goes to the beginning of the buttonhole All additional buttonholes are now automatically sewn in the same length in one step Standard and Stretch Buttonhole No 54 56 Sewing Straight Stitches sew straight stitches forwards stop at required length Programming...

Page 73: ...and second bead are sewn in reverse stop sewing computer at the first stitch press Quick Reverse button on head frame Bartack Securing Stitches Double sewn keyhole buttonholes keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics the first lap is stitched with a longer stitch length than the second do not move the fabric after sewing the first buttonhole just tap the foot control once to sew butt...

Page 74: ...ole type touch the Direct Entry Length icon and program a new length or touch the buttonhole displayed in the Stitch Altering Area touch Reset the saved buttonhole is deleted a new buttonhole length can be programmed In Long Term Memory Long term saving of buttonhole programs is only possible for buttonholes originally stitched as auto length buttonholes Button Sew On Program Sewing on a 2 Hole Bu...

Page 75: ...tion fabric under the presser foot and sew the sewing computer stops automatically when finished and is immediately ready for the next eyelet Punching Eyelets use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet Sewing on Buttons A real time saver for projects where several buttons of the same type must be sewn on e g blouse bed linen etc For work which is subject to heavy wear or washing sew buttons on usi...

Page 76: ...anket stitch Feather Stitch Variations 1333 1338 Decorative quilt stitches 1339 1345 1351 Quilt stitch Handlook quilt stitch variations 1346 1350 Blanket stitch dual Quilters securing program Double blanket stitch dual Satin stitch Various stitch patterns are available which are used especially in quilting for patchwork or for appliqué Feather stitch 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 77: ...Stitch Pattern select in the practical stitch screen e g zigzag stitch make alterations touch the Stitch Altering Area 1 light blue the following screen appears touch the Add icon 2 Preparing Stitch Patterns The following alterations can be saved Stitch width Stitch length Needle position Thread tension Mirror Image Pattern extend Long stitch Balance Pattern repeat 1 9x If the memory has already b...

Page 78: ...e can be named by pressing the large gray icon 4 and the name can be typed in using the keyboard provided touch the Return icon to return to file overview Selecting Stitch Pattern alter stitch width and stitch length using the knobs the alterations and the basic settings are visible touch the Stitch Altering Area light blue 1 touch the Save Settings bar 2 all alterations are saved the special scre...

Page 79: ... deleted all the remaining patterns are moved by one position close the screen with Deleting Stitch Patterns Special Screen 1 All alterations stitch lengths stitch widths etc of the stitch pattern selected are saved 2 All alterations of the stitch pattern selected are reset to the original basic setting 3 Add a selected stitch pattern to your Personal Program with possible alterations 4 The sewing...

Page 80: ...istory History Description touch the History icon the last maximum 12 sewn stitches appear a stitch already contained in the History screen will be overwritten when sewing restarts 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 81: ...on the stored contents Creating Stitch Combinations Programming and Saving select Combi Mode the Stitch Altering Area and the respective function fields appear select the desired stitch pattern directly or type in the number make any necessary changes such as stitch length stitch width needle position and add functions such as mirroring etc select further stitch patterns touch the flashing File Dr...

Page 82: ...leted touch Delete as many times as required until the Stitch Altering Area is empty Deleting a Combination touch the Multifunction icon touch Delete confirm with Opening Empty File Drawers touch the File Drawers icon Drawers screen appears touch Open in the top row select an empty Drawer 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 83: ...ckstepping 8 icon scroll through the combination with the arrow icons each stitch pattern can be directly selected e g for alterations select stitch pattern and make the alterations directly in the Stitch Altering Area close the screen with Opening a Saved Stitch Combination touch the File Drawers icon a summary of the saved combinations appears scroll to the desired Drawer if necessary touch the ...

Page 84: ... the first pattern Altering a Stitch Combination select desired stitch in the combination select desired function e g Mirroring Mirroring Entire Combinations touch the Multifunction icon the screen changes touch the Mirror image icon The alterations always affect the Stitch above the cursor that is active or light blue Saved stitch combinations can be altered or corrected in the same way To make c...

Page 85: ...function sew the first section the sewing computer stops automatically when it reaches the programmed function reposition the fabric press the foot control the next section is sewn etc Deleting a Stitch Combination Overwriting program a new stitch combination touch the File Drawers icon select the Drawer which you want to overwrite confirm with Deleting touch the File Drawers icon a summary of the...

Page 86: ...86 Impressions 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 87: ...holes 100 Automatic Buttonholes 100 Corded Buttonholes With Presser Foot no 3C optional accessory 101 Corded Buttonholes With Buttonhole Foot no 3A 101 Cutting Open the Buttonhole 102 Securing the Cord 102 Decorative Applications 103 Cross Stitches 103 Bobbin Play Sewing 104 Free Motion Sewing 104 Decorative Stitches 104 Tapering 105 Sewing Pin Tucks 106 Quilt Techniques 107 Quilt Labels 107 Free ...

Page 88: ...ng stitch is required quick and easy basting of seams hems quilts etc easy to remove Preparation pin work horizontally to basting direction to prevent the layers slipping Reverse pattern foot no 1C 1D Reverse pattern foot no 1C 1D Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric For example use a longer stitch length approximately 3 4mm with denim a shorter length 2 2 5mm with batiste Adjust the stitch...

Page 89: ...en stitch and use as a decorative top stitch with denim Seaming or sewing long seams quicker securing at beginning and end of seam even securing by defined stitch count Straight Stitch With Securing for all fabrics secures beginning and end of seam Beginning the Seam the sewing computer secures the seam automatically 5 stitches forward 5 stitches reverse the sewing computer continues straight stit...

Page 90: ...ot indicate the needle insertion point and the two additional indents are 1 4 6mm in front of and behind the needle When sewing at a foot s width the seam allowances will always be the exact width and it is easy to turn the work while maintaining the same width Patchwork Appliqué Quilting Patchwork foot no 37 37D Patchwork foot no 57 57D optional accessory Reverse pattern foot no 1C 032298 53 04_1...

Page 91: ...lengths Attach the slide on table for precise and easier work for appliqué no 1C 20C no 1354 Satin stitch no 1329 1330 1352 1353 Blanket stitch no 1331 Blind stitch for quilting no 1C no 1324 Quilters securing program no 1325 Quilting straight stitch no 1328 1346 1350 Quilt stitch hand look quilt stitch no 1327 1331 1345 1351 Decorative quilt stitch Free Motion quilting with or without BSR 032298 ...

Page 92: ...g the seam guide to sew parallel wider lines guide the seam guide along a previously sewn line of stitches Reverse pattern foot no 1C Blindstitch foot no 5 Edge stitch foot no 10 10C 10D optional accessory foot no 5 use any left or far right needle position foot no 1C and no 10 10C 10D any needle position is possible Outer Edges place edge of fold against the guide on the Blindstitch foot select n...

Page 93: ... and over the edge into the air on the other side use a fine darning thread for lightweight fabric Satin Stitch dense stitch used for appliqué embroidery etc shorten stitch length satin stitch setting will be indicated by parallel lines on stitch length bar Reverse pattern foot no 1C If edges roll use the Vari overlock stitch and foot no 2A optional accessory The sewing computer has a programmed s...

Page 94: ...ew the first rows to cover the hole not too close sewing beyond the worn area work the rows in irregular lengths turn work by a quarter turn 90 Cover the First Rows 2 sew over the first rows not too close for a soft finish turn work by a half turn 180 Complete Darning 3 sew loosely and in same direction as 2nd rows Darning Holes or Worn Areas Darning 1 3 2 Darning foot no 9 Poor stitch formation i...

Page 95: ...ter stops automati cally Reinforced Darning Program no 34 The Darning Program no 34 is particularly useful for mending heavy weight or durable garments such as jeans and overalls Reverse pattern foot no 1C Automatic buttonhole foot no 3A If the darning becomes distorted Correct with the Balance function see page 51 If the darning does not cover the whole worn or damaged area Reposition the work un...

Page 96: ... Stitch no 14 Stretch Hem for all types of cotton wool synthetic and mixed fiber jerseys Preparation fold hem pin if necessary Sewing sew hem at preferred depth on the right side of fabric trim excess fabric wrong side Hem Visible Reverse pattern foot no 1C 1D Knits and jersey use a new ball point needle to prevent damaging the loops Sewing stretch fabrics if necessary use a stretch needle 130 705...

Page 97: ...the edge of the fold after sewing about 4 10cm check both sides of fabric and adjust the stitch width if necessary Blind wide Stretch Overlock no 13 ideal for fluffy thick materials such as terry cloth felt and leather Sewing fabric edges are overlapped and the stitch is placed on the seam allowance which produces a very flat durable seam sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge the stitch shoul...

Page 98: ...rom bottom to top Variation Sew both sides of Zipper from bottom to top suitable for all fabrics with nap or grain e g velvet prepare zipper as described above start sewing in the seam of the zipper end and sew first side from bottom to top sew the second side the same way from bottom to top Zipper foot no 4D Zipper foot with guide no 14 optional accessory Zipper as a decorative element sew a visi...

Page 99: ... we recommend the use of the height compensation plates for buttonholes available as optional accessory Using the compensation plate is recommend ed when sewing buttonholes in difficult fabrics It can be used with the Automatic buttonhole foot no 3A or the buttonhole foot 3B Thread Tension the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole is selected the upper tension is slightly looser than norm...

Page 100: ...eds better Corded Buttonholes General cord reinforces and enhances the appearance of buttonholes with raised beads the loop of the cord should be at the end of the button hole most subject to wear where the button rests position the work accordingly Ideal Cords perle cotton no 8 strong hand sewing thread fine crochet yarn Keyhole Buttonholes mark the bead length only the correct eye length will be...

Page 101: ...nner do not hold the cord tightly the buttonhole will form over the cord covering it Corded Buttonholes With Buttonhole Foot no 3A insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole raise the presser foot guide the cord under the foot to the right hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot bring the cords to the front of the foot pull them into the slit Sewing sew the buttonhole in the u...

Page 102: ...tter and Block optional accessory place the fabric on the wood block place the cutter in the center of the buttonhole press down on the cutter with your hand or a hammer Cutting Open the Buttonhole Seam Ripper using the seam ripper cut from the ends towards the middle In order not to cut the ends of short button holes by mistake place a pin at the end of the buttonhole for additional security 0322...

Page 103: ...can be stitched and combined like any other decorative stitches Sewing Trims select cross stitch stitch a row using the seam guide or slide on table seam guide it is important to stitch the first row in a straight line as it will serve as a reference for the rows that follow select a new stitch stitch a second row next to first at a distance of one presser foot s width or using the seam guide repe...

Page 104: ...imilar to normal free motion sewing but is done on the wrong side of the fabric Depending on thread thickness use the tool contained in the accessories to loosen the lower thread tension see page 25 Very thick thread must be wound onto the bobbin by hand clockwise then drawn through the hole in the hook with the threader in accessories Reinforce the area to be sewn with embroidery stabilizer The d...

Page 105: ... end of the first row program the desired length pivot your project and sew the following rows or sides in the same manner Use the functions Needle Stop Down and raise Presser Foot when pivoting your project in the corners of the design Certain tapering stitches a more appropriate for geometric applications please sew a test sample before sewing your project 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 106: ...ate with the screw provided To help with even flow of cording put the cord spool on the Free Hand System so it doesn t fall on the floor or tangle while you re sewing Sewing place the fabric under the foot begin sewing the cording is automatically sewn into the pin tucks creating a raised effect you can also use the pin tuck attachment for a beautiful scallop off the edge finish on collars cuffs a...

Page 107: ...de the work using smooth round movements to form the design of your choice Stipple Quilting technique covers the entire surface of the fabric the lines of stitching are rounded without any sharp corners they never cross nor touch one another Free Motion Quilting Free Motion Quilting and Darning The two techniques are based on the same Free Motion principles Poor Stitch Formation if the thread form...

Page 108: ... simultaneously This also applies for sewing points and straight stitching within a round form If the BSR function is deactivated and later re activated without the sewing computer being switched off in between the last selected BSR mode is active With Straight Stitch no 1 This function using a special presser foot allows for Free Motion quilting sewing using the straight stitch and a pre selected...

Page 109: ...roove until it clicks into place attach the BSR Presser Foot to the sewing computer and plug the cable in the outlet provided the BSR screen opens automatically the BSR mode 1 is activated BSR1 is standard the basic stitch length setting is 2mm set the desired stitch length when sewing small forms and stippling stitch length of 1mm 1 5mm is suggested Presser Foot Pressure may be reduced depending ...

Page 110: ...ressing the Start Stop Button to continue the stitching process Securing Function only Mode 2 press the Securing Function button press the foot control Start Stop Button short securing stitch sequence are sewn as soon as the fabric is moved under the presser foot After the sequence is sewn the set stitch length will be activated and the securing function will be automatically deactiva ted Free Mot...

Page 111: ...ive if the sounds in the Setup Program are generally turned off field on left side of screen is gray speaker is red the icon with the speaker of the BSR bar is not visible Selecting Sound for BSR on the BSR Screen touch the bar with the speaker icon for BSR one time if the bar is gray and the speaker is red the sound for the beeper is inactive if the bar is blue the sound for the beeper is active ...

Page 112: ...mode is deactived and the red light on the presser foot goes off Holding the Work hold and guide the taut fabric with both hands abrupt movements of the fabric slowing down speed ing up respectively can result in slightly too short or too long stiches continuous movement of the fabric no abrupt move ments under the foot will provide best results move the fabric in one direction for best results Ap...

Page 113: ... fingers pull it down then push backward slowly letting it slide upward Only use D presser feet with cut out at the center back If an incorrect presser foot is attached the sewing computer will not start with the dual feed engaged An error message will appear In order to ensure full functionality of the sewing computer it is essential to ALWAYS lower the presser foot first thing after switching th...

Page 114: ...eats Sticky Fabrics imitation leather coated fabrics Teflon coated Dual Feed presser foot Application Sewing all sewing techniques on difficult fabrics e g hems zippers Patchwork accurate stripes and blocks decorative stitches up to 9mm stitch width Appliqués Open embroidery foot 20D sewing on ribbons and bias binding Adjust the presser foot pressure to the fabric The thicker the fabric the lower ...

Page 115: ...tomatic thread cutter 116 Lubricants 116 Cleaning the Screen and the Sewing Computer 116 Changing the Battery for digital Clock 117 Environmental Protection 117 Troubleshooting 118 Avoiding and Solving Problems 118 General Messages 122 Maintenance Troubleshooting 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 116: ...er replace the stitch plate Cleaning the automatic thread cutter see page 46 Lubricants open bobbin cover door with your left hand hold the bobbin case with your right hand turn the hand wheel clockwise until the hook race is visible apply a tiny amount of universal sewing machine oil in the hook race close bobbin cover door briefly run the sewing computer in idle so sewing project is not soiled C...

Page 117: ...of fire or explosion lie sewing computer on its back remove the battery compartment cover open the lock for the battery with a small screwdriver and remove it insert the new battery and press down at the back until the lock snaps into place close the battery compartment Changing the Battery for digital Clock The battery used in this sewing computer may present a risk of fire or chemical burn if mi...

Page 118: ... Needle inserted incorrectly Incorrect needle point Poor quality needle Use needle system 130 705 H Use new good quality needles BERNINA Match the needle to the thread size see page 26 Insert needle as far up as it will go Match the needle type to the fabric Use good quality needles Upper thread Breaks Upper thread tension too tight Incorrectly threaded Poor quality or old thread Stitch plate or h...

Page 119: ... foot for thick material e g Jeans foot No 8 use height compensating tool when sewing over a thick seam Use quality thread Faulty Stitching Remnants of threads between the tension discs of upper thread tension Raise presser foot Pull folded thin fabric do not use fabric edge between the tension discs and clean them by moving the fabric sideways over the front and back of the thread tension disc LE...

Page 120: ...ewing computer and wrapped itself around the thread take up lever Cut thread near bobbin Remove the cover to the left of the screen as follows with your left hand insert the multifunction tool in the slot on the left side of the cover and press the lock with your right hand remove the cover facing the front carefully remove thread remnants from the thread take up lever regulator with tweezers put ...

Page 121: ...use Repair Explanation General Messages Repair Clean and lubricate sewing computer Open bobbin cover and remove bobbin Switch off sewing computer Remove presser foot needle and stitch plate Clean sewing computer as indicated Deleting or overwriting data e g Drawers Confirm with or cancel with Update successful The sewing computer has been provided with the latest software version 032298 53 04_1204...

Page 122: ...ch plate and around the feed dog This message appears after approx 500 000 stitches Close the message after cleaning lubricating by touching the field The message can be deleted temporarily by touching the field but will reappear when the sewing computer is next restarted After the third deletion with the message will not reappear before another approx 500 000 stitches will have been stitched Afte...

Page 123: ...rily by touching the field but will reappear when the sewing computer is next restarted After the third deletion with the message will not reappear until the next reminder at approx 6 000 000 stitches in total When the third message appears at 9 000 000 stitches in total servicing is imperative The message reappears after each restarting of the sewing computer Having your sewing computer cleaned a...

Page 124: ... enter a new number Stitch selection not possible in the combination mode Make another selection Thread breakage Check upper and lower threads Incorrect placement of bobbin Place bobbin the other way round white markings visible Error Message Explanation Repair 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 125: ...Needle is not in the highest position Turn handwheel Main motor is not running Remove any thread remnant from the hook area See also Blocked Hook on page 132 134 Insufficient memory space in the sewing computer for the function selected Reduce memory storage in Memory Reduce memory storage in Personal Program 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 126: ...resser foot Reduce amount of fabric under presser foot No personal data available on the USB stick Check that the USB stick is inserted correctly and re start the sewing computer During the update process personal data was not saved on the USB stick The software was correctly updated Personal data could not be recovered 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 127: ...ot inserted Insert BERNINA USB stick and do not remove during the update process New SW Version is not available on the stick Save the new SW Version on the BERNINA USB stick and start the update again Bobbin cover not closed Close bobbin cover slowly 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 128: ... Cutter button touched and needle is blocked in lowest position Switch sewing computer OFF Turn handwheel clockwise until needle is in highest position Remove stitch plate Remove thread remnants Refit stitch plate then switch sewing computer ON 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 129: ...ation Repair Lower sensor is activated Check bobbin and refill if required Upper thread run out Attach fresh thread spool and threading Incorrect presser foot for BERNINA Dual Feed switched on Attach a D presser foot 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 130: ...130 Troubleshooting Error Message Explanation Repair Bobbin isn t inserted Insert bobbin Threader doesn t move to starting position Carefully raise threader manually 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 131: ...131 Troubleshooting Loose loop formation while sewing Adjust thread tension in Thread Tension screen Error Message Explanation Repair 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 132: ...he error messages listed here may be generated by various failures Please follow this standard procedure in all the cases Step 1 If the needle is not in its upmost position raise needle by turning handwheel counterclockwise If this doesn t work cut upper thread remove servicing cover and use the multifunction tool to release the needle bar and bring it up see also Thread blockage in the hook with ...

Page 133: ...pictured position see on the left by turning the handwheel clockwise for correct threading Step 12 Insert bobbin Step 13 Check the lower thread tension see on the left by comparing the position of the lug with the figure in the bobbin door Step 14 Swing hook in completely by turning the handwheel counterclockwise then close bobbin door Step 15 Check the needle If it is flawless re attach it If is ...

Page 134: ... carefully remove the visible threads from the entire hook area Fig 1 hold bobbin case firmly with your left hand see page 25 in the manual and with your right hand turn the hand wheel to bring hook screw to the 2 30 position as shown Fig 2 carefully insert the tool into the opening then pull the threads up and out by moving the tool sideways and upways Fig 3 4 after removing all thread bits lubri...

Page 135: ... Stitches 136 Florals 136 Cross Stitches 136 Satin Stitches 137 Ornament Stitches 137 Heirloom Stitches 137 Novelty Stitches 138 Tassels 138 Quilt Stitches 138 Tapering Stitches 138 Alphabets 139 Block 139 Double Block 139 Script 140 Quilting Text 140 Kyrillic 141 Hiragana 141 Katakana 142 Kanji 142 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 136: ...136 Sewing Stitch Categorys Practical Stitches Decorative Stitches Florals Buttonholes Cross Stitches 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 137: ...137 Sewing Stitch Categorys Satin Stitches Ornament Stitches Heirloom Stitches 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 138: ...138 Sewing Stitch Categorys Novelty Stitches Tassels Quilt Stitches Tapering Stitches 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 139: ...139 Sewing Stitch Categorys Alphabets Block Double Block 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 140: ...140 Sewing Stitch Categorys Quilting Text Script 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 141: ...141 Sewing Stitch Categorys Kyrillic Hiragana 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 142: ...142 Sewing Stitch Categorys Katakana Kanji 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 143: ...asting 88 Battery 12 117 BERNINA Dual Feed 113 Blind Stitch Practical stitch 58 97 Presser foot 7 Quilting 76 Bobbin 14 Bobbins in the accessory box 9 Removing inserting the bobbin 16 Winding 15 Bobbin Play sewing 104 Bobbin winding device 10 BERNINA Stitch Regulator BSR Acoustic Signal 111 Activating Deactivating 108 112 Presser foot 7 109 Free Motion quilting 110 Functions 110 Mode 108 Preparati...

Page 144: ... sewing 63 Security program 35 63 Threading double and triple needles 19 E ECO 53 Error Messages 118 134 External Function Buttons 10 30 31 F Fabric BERNINA Dual Feed 114 Feed 23 Needle and thread 26 27 Fabric Feed 23 Feed dog 23 Position 34 Raising lowering the feed dog 12 33 Foot Control Connection 12 Needle stop up down 13 30 Start Stop function 30 Foot Control Additional Functions Needle up do...

Page 145: ...alty feet 7 Stitches 76 With BERNINA Dual Feed 114 Permanent Reverse Sewing 35 79 Personal Program 32 77 79 Power Cable 6 Connection 10 12 Practical Stitches 32 Adjusting individual 57 Brief Description 58 In Personal Program 77 Overview 136 Preparing and Setting Up The sewing computer 12 25 Presser Foot BERNINA Specialty feet 7 BSR foot 108 109 Changing the presser foot 22 Display 35 Position of ...

Page 146: ...d Tension 25 Time Alarm 33 35 Service Data 41 Servicing 116 117 Settings Acoustic Signal 43 111 Confirming 34 Customizing the screen 37 Dealer related data 40 Language 40 Needle stop position up down 30 Reset 44 Screen 36 Security Program 33 Sewing 38 System 41 Thread tension 25 Update 45 Setup Program 36 47 Basic settings Reset 44 Cleaning 46 Calibrating buttonhole foot no 3A 47 Dealer 40 Informa...

Page 147: ...utorial 48 U Updating 36 45 Upper Thread Tension 25 Threading 18 USB USB connection 10 12 W Walking Foot 7 Wallpaper 37 Welcome Text 37 Winder 15 17 Speed 15 Switching on off 15 Pre tension 10 Z Zigzag Stitch 58 93 With BSR 108 112 Zipper Inserting a zipper 98 Zipper foot 7 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

Page 148: ...Index 148 2012 04 EN 032298 53 04 032298 53 04_1204_B820_EN ...

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