Baby Lock Evolution BLE8W-2 Page 58 Instruction And Reference Manual Download | Manualshive

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The 5-thread safety stitch is perfect for all types of woven fabrics ranging from fine to heavy weight. This stitch
is designed to seam and overlock the edge in one step, thus creating a garment industry standard stitch. As
well as woven fabrics, the 5-thread safety stitch is for stabilizing knits, sweater knits and long seams on woven
fabrics.

The 5-thread safety stitch is a combined stitch of a 3-thread overlock and 2-thread chain stitch. The 5-thread
safety stitch itself can be up to 3 different seam widths, depending on the chain/cover stitch needle position.
The varied widths can then work with different types of fabrics.

For 5-Thread Safety Stitch:

1. Use standard blade cover.
2. Thread the upper, lower and chain loopers.
3. Thread one chain needle and O-1 overlock needle. (See diagram).
4. Engage the blade to cut the fabric. Set stitch width dial at 7.5.
5. Select A on the Stitch Selector.
6. Set Wave Selector Lever on "OVERLOCK".

* See chart on next page for settings of each size of 5-thread safety stitch.

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5-Thread Safety Stitch

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Summary of Contents for Evolution BLE8W-2

Page 1: ......

Page 2: ...Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered 8 To disconnect turn the main switch to the symbol O position which represents off then remove plug from outlet 9 Do not unplug by pulling on cord To unplug grasp the plug not the cord 10 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the overlock machine needle 11 Always use t...

Page 3: ...by Lock Evolution is a high quality dependable machine It gives you the ability to seam overcast and trim all in one operation Fabrics and threads you previously avoided are now a joy to sew because the Baby Lock Evolution handles all varieties with equal ease With the Baby Lock Evolution your creative options are end less and your time spent serging is more fulfilling and rewarding With the Extra...

Page 4: ...EADING 18 Threading Preparation 18 Threading Your Evolution 19 Locked Position for Threading 19 Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart 19 Lower Looper 20 Upper Looper 20 Chain Looper 21 Chain Cover Needles 22 Left Chain Cover Needle C 1 22 Center Chain Cover Needle C 2 22 Right Chain Cover Needle C 3 22 Overlock Needles 23 Left Overlock Needle O 1 23 Right Overlock Needle O 2 23 How to Use t...

Page 5: ...d Wave Stitch 60 61 8 Thread Stitch 62 63 Expressive Stiches Chain Cover Stitches Combined with Overlock Stitches 64 Expressive Combinations 64 65 TECHNIQUES 66 Turning Corners Chain Stitch 66 Turning Corners Cover Stitch 66 Turning Outside Corners Overlock 67 Turning Inside Corners Overlock 67 Flat Hemming Cover Stitch 68 Hemming in the Round Cover Stitch 68 Blind Hemming Overlock 69 Sewing Curve...

Page 6: ...it reaches the feed dogs first The feed dogs move the fabric along as the cutting blades trim the fabric edge creating a clean edge to be finished Or disengage your blade and insert the sewing table to sew a chain stitch in the center of your fabric The overlock stitch is supported by one or more parallel stitch finger s that keep the fabric flat To form an overlock stitch the threads become locke...

Page 7: ...ewing area 23 Lower looper threading port 7 Needle clamp screws 24 Power switch 8 Snap on presser foot 25 Overlock stitch selector 9 Needle plate 26 Accessory compartment spool stand 10 Stitch width adjusting dial 27 Upper looper threading port 11 Side cover 28 Chain cover stitch looper tension dial 12 Cutting blade lock switch 29 Carrying handle 13 Stitch length rolled hem adjusting dial 30 Wave ...

Page 8: ... for table 2 In flat table Lint brush needle insert tool 1 Accessory compartment Package of assorted sized needles 1 Accessory compartment Organ ELx705CF Allen screwdriver 1 Accessory compartment Tweezers 1 Accessory compartment Upper cutting blade for replacement 1 Accessory compartment Needle threader 1 Accessory compartment Overlock needle screws 2 Accessory compartment Chain Cover stitch needl...

Page 9: ...maximum performance of the Baby Lock Evolution it is recommended to use 100 polyester long fiber thread Recommended brands are Maxi Lock and Metrosene This thread also performs best when used with many decorative threads for sewing specialty decorative techniques Optional Accessories OVERLOCK OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES Beading Foot B5002 04A C E BLE8 BF Blindhem Foot B5002S06A E BLE8 BLHF Elastic Applic...

Page 10: ...ne blade wider than the other To reduce the risk of electric shock this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet reverse the plug If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet Do not modify the plug in any way 4 Foot controller The sewing speed of the machine is determined by the amount of pressu...

Page 11: ...th one hand and snap the extension guide to the back with your other hand fig D Lower into position To remove Raise pivot Raise the plastic support straight up and pivot the back of the support up to release fig E 8 Opening front cover The front cover may be opened simply by placing your fingers behind the tab at the right side and pulling toward you fig F 9 Opening Cutting blade cover To open the...

Page 12: ...lockwise The blade will start moving automatically when you start sewing Cutting blade cover can be changed to sewing table for chain cover stitching a Open front cover and cutting blade cover page 9 fig F G b Gently pull toward you to unsnap cover fig B and snap sewing table into place fig C c Lower the upper looper positioning lever down fig D d Close the sewing table door and then the front cov...

Page 13: ... convenience of a snap on presser foot To Release 1 Raise the presser foot lever 2 Lock the cutting blade down 3 Raise the needles to the highest position 4 Push the presser foot release lever located at the back of the presser foot holder 5 Carefully turn the presser foot clockwise 90 degrees 6 Slide the presser foot to the rear to remove To Replace 1 Raise the presser foot lever 2 Lock the cutti...

Page 14: ... between the 0 and 1 on both standard rolled settings The stitch width adjusting dial is located above the stitch length dial fig A The stitch width displays two sets of numbers indicating two width ranges for over lock stitches The larger numbers at each end of the dial 5 5 and 7 5mm denote the stitch width when the 0 1 left hand needle is in use The smaller numbers 3 0 and 5 0mm apply when only ...

Page 15: ...r eased as the diagram on the front cover indicates This can eliminate wavy seams in stretchy fabrics or those cut on the bias grain fig A At the maximum setting of 2 0 fig C the differential feed can gather a lightweight fabric to nearly double fullness fig D The front feed dog is actually feeding in twice as much fabric as the back feed dog is feeding out To maximize the gathering effects use th...

Page 16: ...k thread delivery system for overlock stitching is located on the right side of the machine Select appropriate setting A B C or D A for overlock stitches using the left needle O 1 and the looper threads balanced B for overlock stitches using the right needle O 2 and the looper threads balanced C for narrow stitches with a short length and the looper threads balanced D for stitches that require a t...

Page 17: ...number Decrease the tension by turning the dial to a smaller number Align the number with the indicator mark on the front of the machine near the dial Chain Looper Tension Dial The chain looper tension dial is divided into 2 sections Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch The dial is located on the top right side of the machine Align the selected tension setting with the indicator mark on the front right o...

Page 18: ...e the blade cover and the front cover Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine Tuning Knob No adjustments are needed when sewing with most fabrics and threads on your Baby Lock Evolution but certain threads or fabrics may require minor fine tuning of the looper delivery system to perfect your stitches Increase or decrease the delivery of the looper threads with the upper and lower looper thread fine tun...

Page 19: ...17 Notes ...

Page 20: ...wn insert a spool cap into the top of the spool fig B When using standard spool threads on your serger replace the cone hold ers with the sponge disks furnished with your machine These disks hold smaller spools securely and help the thread to reel off properly With the sponge disk in place put the capped spool on the spindle fig C Thread nets may be placed over threads that tend to slip off the bo...

Page 21: ...ic threading sequence 1 Open the front cover 2 Raise the presser foot to release all threads 3 Set the threading lever from serging position to threading position fig A 4 Rotate the machine handwheel slowly toward you until the tubes move to connectiong position fig B Note The Evolution must be in the locked position when threading the loopers unless otherwise indicated A B C The spool pins and th...

Page 22: ...ng lever to serging position Upper Looper 1 Set the upper looper positioning lever at UP position See picture below for reference 2 With the presser foot up and threading lever in the threading position fig A page 19 3 Place the thread on the UPPER LOOPER spool pin on the thread stand Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide U directly above the spool fig C Page 19 Snap the thread ...

Page 23: ...over the tension dial fig D inset 5 Put thread into guide on front of dial then down to the chain looper threading port 6 Pull 18 inches 45cm of thread and insert 1 2 inch 1 2cm of thread into the chain looper threading port Use tweezers if necessary to insert the thread end fig E 7 Push the threading button fig E If the thread does not go through the chain looper eye with one push push the thread...

Page 24: ...over needle thread guide C2 Then insert thread into C2 slot until thread clicks in This seats the thread into the tension Bring the thread behind the front thread guide up over and down the right side of the thread take up lever 3 Insert C2 thread into pre tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle See drawings below for reference 4 With the needle threader or twee...

Page 25: ...read into the eye of O 1 needle Right Overlock Needle O 2 1 Place the thread on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin fig C page 19 Bring the thread end through the telescopic guide directly above the thread Bring the thread through thread guide at top of machine and down the overlock needle 2 thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate Pull an 8 inch 20 5cm length of thread through the guide ...

Page 26: ...eedle under the foot and to the back left Front Cover Seam Guide 1 The chain stitch C 3 combined with the 3 thread overlock is the most common 5 thread combination The mark closest to the needles indicates 5 8 inch 16mm from the cutting edge to the C 3 chain needle 2 When using the left overlock needles O 1 for either a 3 or 4 thread overlock seam the second mark from the needles indicates 5 8 inc...

Page 27: ...ning is required Note Be careful not to push or pull the fabric The Evolution will feed it evenly without help To Chain Off of the Fabric Your Evolution will sew a chain off the edge of the fabric For best results we recommend to follow the instruc tions below Overlock stitches 1 At the end of the seam gently pull the fabric and thread to the back to chain off fig A 2 When the desired length is re...

Page 28: ...Note When re threading your Baby Lock Evolution using the Extraordin Air Threading feature make sure that the previous thread that was in the looper tube is completely removed This will eliminate any chance of the previous thread obstructing the flow of the air when re threading the machine As you sew you will discover that maneuvering the fabric is different from conventional sewing because the t...

Page 29: ...lso be used with this technique O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S E X P R E S S 27 4 Thread Overedging Overlock Seam A B C A B For garments or projects that do not require conventional pressed open seams you can stitch and finish the seam in one operation and then press the seams to one side fig A A 4 or 3 thread seam is strong yet it provides give or flexibility according to the needs of the fabric...

Page 30: ...le on the top side of the stitch interlocks with both the loopers to add durability The thread that resembles a zigzag on the upper side of the fabric is from the upper looper The thread that resem bles a zig zag on the lower side of the fabric is from the lower looper Move the stitch selector lever to A For the perfect 4 thread overlock stitch follow the suggested settings and threading diagram b...

Page 31: ...ur serger to a 3 thread overlock wide 5 5 7 5mm cut the O 2 needle thread just above the needle eye fig A Remove the O 2 nee dle and thread completely from the machine Re tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out fig B Move the stitch selector lever to A For O 1 needle 3 thread overlock follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below A B NEEDLES O ...

Page 32: ...event the screw from work ing out fig B Place needle into O 2 needle clamp position and tighten screw Move the stitch selector lever to B For the O 2 needle 3 thread overlock sewing follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S E X P R E S S 30 3 Thread Overlock Narrow A B NEEDLES O 2 LENGTH 2 5 3 5 WIDTH 3 0 STITCH SELECTOR B WAVE SELECTOR OVERLOCK ...

Page 33: ... machine Clear the stitch fingers Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise to the rolled hem range Set the length at 1 fig A and the stitch width at 3 0 fig B for a smooth decorative finish Move the stitch selector lever to C For the O 2 needle 3 thread narrow hem follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below NEEDLES O 2 LENGTH 0 75 4 0R WIDTH 3 0 STITCH SELECTOR C WAVE SELE...

Page 34: ...an become a rolled edge The fabric edge rolls around the stitch finger The upper looper wraps the fabric edge while the lower looper thread is nearly invisible on the back side of the stitch formation Remove the 0 1 needle and thread Clear the stitch fingers Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise into the rolled hem range and set the dial at 1 5 fig A Set the stitch width dial to 3 5 M fi...

Page 35: ...ge Set differential feed at 0 6 fig B Sew the fabric in the direction of greatest stretch the crossgrain on knits bias grain on wovens For a leafier effect try using a shorter stitch length and gently stretch the fabric fig A as it is being sewn Sew a test sample fig C Note To avoid the stitching from pulling away from the fabric increase the width to a slightly larger number Use the rolled edge t...

Page 36: ...s pull open and flatten within the stitch for a non bulky join fig A Be sure to sew a test sample first to determine whether the stitch will have the strength to hold the seam without the fabric pulling away Move the stitch selector lever to D For the O 2 needle 3 thread flatlock follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S E X P R E S S 34 3 Thread...

Page 37: ...ry looper Rotate the sub sidiary looper up and to the left fig B then slip the end into the upper looper eye fig C 4 Place the left needle thread on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1 spool pin or right needle thread on the OVER LOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin and bring the thread through the telescopic thread guide directly above the spool of thread Bring the thread through the top thread guide that is normally used ...

Page 38: ...ing blade to the locked position 5 Engage the subsidiary looper following step 3 on page 35 6 Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below 7 Engage the threading lever in the serging position For loops lower looper thread to show on the right side place fab ric wrong sides together for sewing the seam To produce the ladder needle thread on the outside place the fabric right sides tog...

Page 39: ...d paths see illustration below 4 Engage the subsidiary looper following step 3 on page 35 5 Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below 6 Engage the threading lever in the serging position Before serging select stitch pattern you want to have on the outside of the garment For loops lower looper thread to show place fabric wrong sides together for sewing the seam fig C To produce the...

Page 40: ...llustration 4 Engage the threading lever in the serging position pull the thread out of the upper looper tube and continue to thread the needle as illustrated 5 Thread Maxilock thread in the lower looper 6 Swing the subsidiary looper into place on the upper looper 7 Place water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric along the edge 8 Stitch along the edge of the fabric fig A 9 When finished stitch...

Page 41: ... pin and thread the needle thread through upper looper thread path See below illustration 4 Engage the threading lever in the serging position pull the thread out of the upper looper tube and continue to thread the needle as illustrated 5 Thread Maxilock thread in the lower looper 6 Swing the subsidiary looper into place on the upper looper 7 Place the fabric pieces right sides together for the de...

Page 42: ...ne on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin 5 Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread Follow the left overlock needle threading path down to the right overlock needle 6 Thread the O 2 needle using the needle threader page 24 7 Place the upper looper thread cone on the upper looper spool pin 8 Slip the upper looper thread into the telescopic thread guide di...

Page 43: ...pic thread guide directly above the thread Follow the top threading path for the right needle thread down the front threading path to the left of the chrome thread guide and directly to the U threading port for the upper looper Set the Looper Threader Selector on U Thread the upper looper page 20 9 Place the needle thread and upper looper thread under the presser foot and to the back 10 Place the ...

Page 44: ...ding path for the right overlock needle thread down the front threading path to the left of the chrome thread guide and directly to the U threading port for the upper looper Thread the upper loop er page 20 9 Place the needle thread and upper looper thread under the presser foot and to the back 10 Place the lower looper thread cone on the lower looper spool pin 11 Slip the lower looper thread into...

Page 45: ...read into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread Follow the top threading path for the right overlock needle thread down the front threading path to the left of the chrome thread guide and directly to the L threading port for the lower looper Thread the lower loop er page 20 Note This upper looper thread which goes into lower looper through L threading port appears as wave stitch in...

Page 46: ...sition to thread the chain looper page 19 4 Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper Open side cover of machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the chain looper Trim thread to 4 inches 10cm and lay in tray 5 Follow the guide to thread the chain cover stitch needle C 1 C 2 or C 3 Place needle thread on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing 6 Set stitch length and othe...

Page 47: ...rn the chain looper tension dial to a narrower dash for looser tension Narrow dashes are looser tension Needle thread is too tight Turn the chain cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number Or turn the chain looper tension dial to a wider dash for tighter tension Wider dashes are tighter tension C H A I N C O V E R S T I T C H E X P R E S S 45 Chain Stitching Cont Needle thread is too loose...

Page 48: ... the chain looper page 19 4 Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper page 21 Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper Trim thread to 4 inches 10cm and lay in tray 5 Follow the diagram to thread the chain cover stitch needles C 2 and C 3 page 22 Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing 6 Set stitch length and o...

Page 49: ... dash at the words Cover Stitch but staying within the solid gold line This will tighten the chain looper thread on the under side of the stitch Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number Make sure that the chain looper tension dial is set at the solid dash at the words Cover Stitch C H A I N C O V E R S T I T C H E X P R E S S...

Page 50: ...hread the chain looper page 19 4 Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper Trim thread to 4 inches 10cm and lay in tray 5 Follow the diagram to thread the chain cover stitch needle positions C 1 and C 2 Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing 6 Set stitch length and oth...

Page 51: ...e dash at the words Cover Stitch but staying within the solid gold line This will tighten the chain looper thread on the under side of the stitch Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number Make sure that the chain looper tension dial is set at the solid dash at the words Cover Stitch C H A I N C O V E R S T I T C H E X P R E S ...

Page 52: ...hain looper page 19 4 Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper Trim thread to 4 inches 10cm and lay in tray 5 Follow the diagram to thread the chain cover stitch needle positions C 1 and C 3 Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing 6 Set stitch length and other machine ...

Page 53: ...de dash at the words Cover Stitch but staying within the solid gold line This will tighten the chain looper thread on the under side of the stitch Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number Make sure that the chain looper tension dial is set at the solid dash at the words Cover Stitch C H A I N C O V E R S T I T C H E X P R E S...

Page 54: ...hain looper page 19 4 Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper Trim thread to 4 inches 10cm and lay in tray 5 Follow the diagram to thread the chain cover stitch needle positions C 1 C 2 and C 3 Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing 6 Set stitch length and other mach...

Page 55: ...the wide dash at the words Cover Stitch but staying within the solid gold line This will tighten the chain looper thead on the under side of the stitch Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number Make sure that the chain looper tension dial is set at the solid dash at the words Cover Stitch C H A I N C O V E R S T I T C H E X P ...

Page 56: ... chain stitch The 4 thread safety stitch itself can be 3 different seam widths depending on the chain cover stitch needle position The varied widths can then work with different types of fabrics For 4 thread Safety Stitch 1 Use standard blade cover 2 Thread the lower and chain loopers 3 Thread one chain needle and the O 1 overlock needle see diagram 4 Engage the subsidiary looper in the upper loop...

Page 57: ...ength stitch width and chain needle tension settings may vary with different types of thread Size Needle Looper Stitch Length Stitch Width 5 8 inch 16mm C 1 O 1 C L Sub Looper 2 5 4 0 7 5 1 2 inch 13mm C 2 O 1 C L Sub Looper 2 5 4 0 7 5 3 8 inch 9 5mm C 3 O 1 C L Sub Looper 2 5 4 0 7 5 Stitch Selector Chain Needle Tension Dial Chain Looper Tension Dial A 5 Chain Stitch A 5 Chain Stitch A 5 Chain S...

Page 58: ... The 5 thread safety stitch itself can be up to 3 different seam widths depending on the chain cover stitch needle position The varied widths can then work with different types of fabrics For 5 Thread Safety Stitch 1 Use standard blade cover 2 Thread the upper lower and chain loopers 3 Thread one chain needle and O 1 overlock needle See diagram 4 Engage the blade to cut the fabric Set stitch width...

Page 59: ...Size Needle Looper Stitch Length Stitch Width 5 8 inch 16mm C 1 O 1 U L C 2 5 3 5 7 5 1 2 inch 13mm C 2 O 1 U L C 2 5 3 5 7 5 3 8 inch 9 5mm C 3 O 1 U L C 2 5 3 5 7 5 Stitch Selector Chain Needle Tension Dial Chain Looper Tension Dial A 5 Chain Stitch A 5 Chain Stitch A 5 Chain Stitch Note Stitch length stitch width and chain needle tension settings may vary with different types of thread ...

Page 60: ...e blade to cut the fabric 6 Select B on the Stitch Selector for 3 thread wave Select C for 3 thread rolled wave 7 Move the Wave Selector lever from OVERLOVCK to WAVE The stitch selection charts in the back of the manual have other combination of stitches such as 6 Thread Wave wide cover stitch wide with 3 thread wave 6 Thread Wave narrow cover stitch narrow with 3 thread wave 5 Thread Wave chain s...

Page 61: ...d Wave Stitch Variations of Stitches 6 Thread Stitch Cover Stitch Wide w 3 Thread Wave Stitch 6 Thread Stitch Cover Stitch Wide w 3 Thread Rolled Wave 5 Thread Stitch Right Chain Stitch w 3 Thread Wave Stitch 5 Thread Stitch Right Chain Stitch w 3 Thread Rolled Wave 6 Thread Stitch Cover Stitch Narrow Left w 3 Thread Rolled Wave ...

Page 62: ...d illustration below 3 Thread chain looper 4 Thread C 1 C 2 C 3 and O 2 right needle positions 5 Engage the blade to cut the fabric 6 Select B on the Stitch Selector 7 Turn the Wave Selector lever from OVERLOCK to WAVE The stitch selection charts in the back of the manual have other combination of stitches such as 6 Thread Reversed Wave wide cover stitch wide with 3 thread reverse wave 6 Thread Re...

Page 63: ...7 Thread Reversed Wave Stitch Cont 7 Thread Stitch Triple Cover Stitch w 3 Thread Reversed Wave Stitch Variations of Stitches 6 Thread Stitch Cover Stitch Wide w 3 Thread Reversed Wave Stitch 5 Thread Stitch Right Chain Stitch w 3 Thread Reversed Wave Stitch ...

Page 64: ...C 3 O 1 and O 2 needle positions 4 Engage the blade to cut the fabric 5 Select A on the Stitch Selector The stitch selection charts in the back of the manual have other combination of stitches such as 7 Thread wide Triple Cover Stitch with 3 Thread Overlock Wide 7 Thread narrow Triple Cover Stitch with 3 Thread Overlock Narrow 6 Thread wide Wide Cover Stitch with 3 Thread Overlock Wide 6 Thread na...

Page 65: ... I O N S T I T C H E X P R E S S I V E 63 8 Thread Stitch Cont 8 Thread Stitch Triple Cover Stitch w 4 Thread Overlock 7 Thread wide Triple Cover Stitch w 3 Thread Overlock Wide 7 Thread narrow Triple Cover Stitch w 3 Thread Overlock Narrow ...

Page 66: ...Overlock Left Narrow Cover Stitch 4 Thread Overlock Wide Cover Stitch 4 Thread Overlock Triple Cover Stitch 3 Thread Overlock Narrow Chain C 3 needle position 3 Thread Overlock Narrow Chain C 2 needle position 3 Thread Overlock Narrow Chain C 1 needle position 3 Thread Overlock Narrow Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3 Thread Overlock Narrow Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3 Thread Overlock Narrow Wide Cover St...

Page 67: ...ide Cover Stitch 3 Thread Rolled Hem Triple Cover Stitch 3 Thread Rolled Wave Chain C 3 needle position 3 Thread Rolled Wave Chain C 2 needle position 3 Thread Rolled Wave Chain C 1 needle position 3 Thread Rolled Wave Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3 Thread Rolled Wave Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3 Thread Rolled Wave Wide Cover Stitch 3 Thread Rolled Wave Triple Cover Stitch 2 Thread Overlock Narrow Chai...

Page 68: ...Stitch A B C Turning Corners Cover Stitch Sew to the point in fabric where you want to turn a corner Stop the machine Turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise until the needles are down in the fabric Turn the handwheel away from you clockwise until the needles are in the highest position and the needles are out of the fabric Raise the presser foot fig A and slowly pivot the fabric Align the ...

Page 69: ...ng the stitch fingers Try again turn ing corners takes a little practice T E C H N I Q U E S 67 A B C Turning Inside Corner Overlock Turning Outside Corner Overlock 1 Reinforce loosely woven fabrics at the corner with staystitching on the conventional sewing machine Clip to the corner fig A 2 Align the fabric edge with the blade and stitch until the blade reach es the corner not the needles Don t ...

Page 70: ...de or attachments will help with hemming fig B Ask your Baby Lock retailer 1 Sew all seams on the garment 2 Measure turn up and press the hem on garment 3 Stitch around the hem overlapping the hem approximately 1 2 inch 13mm fig A 4 Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are in the lowest position in the fabric 5 Carefully reverse the handwheel until the needles are in the highest positi...

Page 71: ...ot and stitch allowing the nee dle to catch only a thread or two of the soft fold the blade will trim the top edge of the hem and the loopers will overcast the edge for a clean finish fig B 4 Open the fold and press flat fig C Note An optional blindhem foot for consistent guiding is available through your Baby Lock retailer fig D Sewing Curves Overlock To sew around inside or outside curves guide ...

Page 72: ... U E S 70 Inserting Tapes Overlock A B Inserting Tapes Cover Stitch The slot on the standard foot can be used with the narrow wide or triple cover stitches Decorative tape ribbon or elastic can be inserted into the slot and sewn with the cover stitch fig A Insert the tape ribbon or elastic into the slot and down under the foot to the needles Remember that the cover stitch must be started in the fa...

Page 73: ... want to show along stitch placement lines 5 Position the fabric under the presser foot aligning the fold of the fab ric 1 8 inch 3 5mm to the left of the upper cutting blade fig A See note 6 Stitch to the desired ending point 7 Clear the stitch fingers and chain off the fabric fig B 8 Clip threads leaving a 3 4 inch 7 5 10cm chain 9 Gently pull the fabric to flatten the stitches fig C 10 Separate...

Page 74: ...the chain back into the stitching 4 Lock the beginning or end of a seam by serging over the previous stitches To lock the beginning of the seam 1 Manually turn the handwheel toward you taking 2 3 stitches into the fabric Leave the needle s in the lowest position to anchor the fabric 2 Raise the presser foot 3 Smooth out the thread chain with your fingers fig B Then bring the chain around and under...

Page 75: ...ic over end to end fig B and reposition it under the presser foot with the needle at the seam edge aligned with the previ ous needle line fig C 4 Lower presser foot and sew 5 6 stitches over the previous stitches being careful not to cut them You may want to flip the cutting blade lock switch clockwise to the lock position Pivot the fabric and chain off fig D E T E C H N I Q U E S 73 Securing Ends...

Page 76: ...le thread s to the back of the fabric and tug on the needle threads to secure them The cover stitch needle threads may also be tied to prevent raveling of the stitch Seam sealant can also be applied to the thread ends Because the chain stitch can be easily removed the stitch can have a multitude of sewing functions For dressmakers it can be used as a fitting seam It can easily be removed to let ou...

Page 77: ...T E C H N I Q U E S 75 Notes ...

Page 78: ...L T Y T H R E A D S 76 Using Specialty Threads Lightweight Threads Medium Weight Threads Heavy Weight Threads Lightweight threads such as rayon machine embroidery thread lingerie thread can easily be threaded on the Evolution Very fine monofilament threads may need threading assistance of a Threading Cradle page 79 or Looper Threading Tool page 78 Medium weight threads such as topstitching thread ...

Page 79: ...ull on the regular thread from the looper eye until the spe cialty thread comes through the looper eye fig D 6 Place upper looper thread under the foot and to the left clip lower looper thread at the base plate If the thread is heavy and the overhand knot step 5 is too large for the looper tube follow directions 1 thru 7 on page 79 to make a thread cradle Then 1 Engage the threading lever to the s...

Page 80: ...he threading port Push the looper threading tool until the end comes out of the looper eye For the chain looper open side door of machine to see threading tool come out of the eye of chain looper 6 Insert the specialty thread tail into the looper threading tool eye fig A Pull the straight end of the looper threading tool through the looper eye bringing the specialty thread with it fig B 7 Run uppe...

Page 81: ...e ends of the thread cradle into the port about 1 inch 2 5cm 6 Holding the cradle loop with left hand push the threading button with your right hand fig E until the thread ends come out the looper eye For chain looper open side door of machine to make sure thread is in eye of chain looper 7 Insert the specialty thread tail into the cradle loop fig F pull the serg er thread ends until the specialty...

Page 82: ...ly COMMENTS Sew at a slower speed when sewing with heavier threads Sew at a slower speed when sewing with metallic threads CHAIN COVER STITCHES Topstitching Buttonhole Twist Medium weight Wooly Nylon Medium weight Metallic Threads Lightweight 2 Thread Chain C 1 C 2 or C 3 Needle Position In chain looper only In chain looper only In chain needle only 3 Thread Cover Stitch Left Narrow Right Narrow W...

Page 83: ...ve thread CHAIN COVER STITCHES Same as above 1 Same as above 2 Same as above 3 2 Thread Chain C 1 C 2 or C 3 Needle Position Use in needle and chain looper Use in needle and chain looper Use in chain looper only 3 Thread Cover Stitch Left Narrow Right Narrow Wide Use in needles and chain looper Lingerie Thread Use in needles and chain loop er Machine embroidery thread Use in needles only Use in ch...

Page 84: ...ch length too short 3 Did you start the first stitch in the fabric Overlock stitching 1 Is the stitch selector on the proper setting 2 Is the upper looper positioning lever in the UP position Skipped Stitches 1 Is the needle bent or worn 2 Is the needle inserted correctly 3 Is the serger threaded correctly 4 Is the presser foot pressure right for the fabric 5 Is the correct needle being used for t...

Page 85: ...roper threading port 3 Is at least 1 2 inch 1 2cm of the thread end in the threading port 4 Is there at least 18 inches 45cm of loose thread beyond the thread guide above the threading port 5 Is the upper looper positioning lever set at UP position for serging 6 Is there a kink or twist in the 18 inch 45cm of thread to restrict the flow into the threading port 7 Is the thread caught to prevent goi...

Page 86: ...used for narrow overlock stitches and rolled or narrow hemming Note Both overlock needles are used for 4 thread overlock stitching To replace a needle 1 Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the handwheel toward you 2 Using the allen screwdriver loosen the needle screw for the nee dle to be changed Screws are located by sequence as indicated above Note To prevent the needle from fall...

Page 87: ...ng may indicate other problems M A I N T E N A N C E 85 Replacing Cutting Blades A B TO REPLACE MOVING BLADE proceed as follow 1 For safety reasons unplug main power cord 2 Open front cover and cutting blade cover fig A 3 Remove screw and moving blade fig B 4 Insert new blade into blade slot 5 Insert screw and place moving blade to its highest position 6 Hold blade in place and tighten screw 7 Che...

Page 88: ...t 3 Select stitch length dial to rolled hem setting 4 Remove needles from needle clamp 5 For easy access to the needle plate lock pin set screw lower needle clamp to its lowest position fig A 6 Place allen screwdriver 1 5mm into allen screw and loosen needle plate pin holder screw fig B for loca tion of screw 7 Remove needle plate lock pin fig B and remove needle plate front screw arrow in fig B 8...

Page 89: ...read Overlock with left needle 5 5 7 5mm Standard 2 3 4 Thread Overlock with right needle 3 0 5 0mm 3 Thread Rolled Hem with right needle 1 5mm Combined Stitch 5 Thread Safety Stitch 5 5 16 0mm 6 Thread Ultra Stitch 8 5 16 0mm 7 Thread Ultra Stitch 10 5 16 0mm 8 Thread Ultra Stitch 13 5 16 0mm Stitch Length 0 75 4 0mm Differential Feed Gathering effect N 2 Stretching effect N 0 6 Presser Foot Snap...

Page 90: ...U L C 2 5 4 0 7 5 A Cover Stitch 5 0 N 16 mm C1 C3 O1 O2 16 mm C2 C3 O1 O2 13 mm 6 Thread Cover Stitch with 3 thread overlock O1 wide O2 narrow C1 C2 O1 U L C 2 5 4 0 7 5 A Cover Stitch 5 0 N 16 mm C1 C3 O1 16 mm C2 C3 O1 13 mm C1 C2 O2 U L C 2 5 4 0 5 5 B Cover Stitch 5 0 N 14 mm C1 C3 O2 14 mm C2 C3 O2 11 mm Chain Stitch with 4 thread overlock C1 O1 O2 U L C 2 5 4 0 7 5 A Chain Stitch 5 0 N 16 m...

Page 91: ...5 5 B Cover Stitch 14 mm C1 C3 O2 14 mm C2 C3 O2 11 mm C1 C2 C3 C 2 0 3 0 Cover Stitch 5 0 N Chain Stitch with 2 Thread overlock Wide O 1 Narrow O 2 C1 O1 L C sub looper 2 5 4 0 7 5 A Chain Stitch 5 0 N 16 mm C2 O1 13 mm C3 O1 10 mm C1 O2 2 5 4 0 5 5 B Chain Stitch 14 mm C2 O2 11 mm C3 O2 8 mm 3 Thread C1 C2 C 2 0 3 0 Cover Stitch 5 0 N C2 C3 C1 C3 2 Thread C1 C 2 0 3 0 Chain Stitch 5 0 N C2 L C s...

Page 92: ...90 BLE8W 2 TA EI 33 2 E 2009 6 1500 ...

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