5.3 Wiring to the external controller
IMPORTANT
: The following instructions must be read together with the
installation guide supplied with the external timer/controller.
1. Remove the grey cover by exercising a pressure on each side as indicated then
by pulling it up (1).
2. Remove the small white plug located on the lower metal panel of the Ei
power pack (2).
3. Remove the 4 screws maintaining the dark grey cover of the Ei power pack (3).
4. Carefully open up the Ei control box cover then remove with care the
ribbon cable connecting the 2 electronic cards. Then retrieve the Ei
power pack cover (4).
5. Insert the external controller cable (a cable guide- not supplied- might be
required depending on the diameter used). Place a plastic clamp ring on
the external controller cable as indicated to avoid potential tearing (5).
6. Put the panel cover and the 4 screws back in place then the grey cover.
Depending on the external controller brand, proceed with the
following wiring for the cable to be connected to the green terminal
strip (5) of the Ei chlorinator:
Polaris EOS / Jandy Aqualink Controllers
Green wire (0V) on the ‘0V’ terminal of the Ei
Red wire (+V) on the ‘POS’ terminal of the Ei
Yellow/white wire (B) on the ‘B’ terminal of the Ei
Black wire (A) on the ‘A’ terminal of the Ei
Pentair Intellitouch Controllers
Green wire to the ‘B’ terminal of the Ei
Red wire to the ‘POS’ terminal of the Ei
Yellow wire to the ‘A’ terminal of the Ei
Black wire to the ‘0V’ terminal of the Ei
5.4 Checking wiring and connections
Once the connection between the external timer/controller and the Ei chlorinator is established, it
must be tested.
1. Switch on the external controller, then the Zodiac Ei.
2. If the connection is successful, a ‘T’ icon will be displayed in the upper right hand corner of the LCD
screen after about 20 seconds.
3. If the connection failed, switch off the two appliances and proceed with another test (Steps1 and 2).
NOTE:
For safety reasons, the Zodiac Ei switches automatically to stop (‘OFF’) when communication
between the chlorinator and the external timer/controller is lost.
!
!
(1)
(2)
(3)
Ribbon cable
(4)
Green
terminal strip
Clamp ring
(5)
30
Water balance
pH
Free chlorine
mg/L – ppm
TAC
(total alkalinity)
°f (ppm)
TH
(total
hardness)
°f (ppm)
Cyanuric
acid
(stabiliser)
mg/L – ppm
Salt level
g/L – kg/m3
Recommended
values
7,2 - 7,4
1 - 2
8 - 15
(80 - 150)
10 - 30
(100 - 300)
< 50
4
To increase
Add
pH plus
Increase
production
or add chlorine
Add
alkalinity
corrector
(“TAC+”)
Add calcium
chloride
Add cyanuric
acid
Add
salt
To reduce
Add
pH minus
Reduce
production
or turn off
the appliance
Add
hydrochloric
acid
Add calcium
sequestering
agent or
perform
decarbonation
Partially
empty the pool
and refi ll
Partially
empty the pool
and refi ll
Frequency of
test
(bathing
season)
Weekly
Weekly
Monthly
Monthly
Quarterly
Quarterly
Error and warning messages
7.1 ‘CHECK SALT’
Interpretation:
The salt concentration in the pool is insuffi cient and/or the water temperature is too low (The orange
‘SALT’ indicator is lit).
Possible causes:
Lack of salt (< 4 g/L) due to water loss or dilution (fi lter backwash, change of water, rain, leakage…).
The pool water temperature is too low (< 18 °C, variable).
Solutions:
> Add salt to the pool water to maintain the level at 4 g/L. If you don’t know the salt level or how to test it
contact your pool specialist
> A signal simply indicating limited release when the water is too cold. Reduce chlorine production or add
salt to compensate.
7.2 ‘NO FLOW‘
Interpretation:
The fl ow of water in the cell is insuffi cient or has stopped and the fl ow detector has stopped the
chlorine production (the red “Flow” indicator is lit).
Possible causes:
The fi lter pump is faulty, the fi lter and/or skimmers need to be cleaned, the by-pass valve is closed, a
wire is disconnected.
Solutions:
> Check the pump, the fi lter and the skimmer(s). Clean them if necessary.
> Check the correct operation of the fl ow sensor.
> Check the wiring connections (cell and fl ow sensor).
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