28
TRUE
traditional
reach
-
ins
www
.
truemfg
.
com
STAINLESS STEEL EQUIPMENT CARE
AND CLEANING
CAUTION:
Do not use any steel wool, abrasive or chlorine based
products to clean stainless steel surfaces.
STAINLESS STEEL OPPONENTS
There are three basic things which can break down your stainless
steel’s passivity layer and allow corrosion to rear its ugly head.
1. Scratches from wire brushes, scrapers, and steel pads are just
a few examples of items that can be abrasive to stainless steel’s
surface.
2. Deposits left on your stainless steel can leave spots. You may have
hard or soft water depending on what part of the country you live
in. Hard water can leave spots. Hard water that is heated can leave
deposits if left to sit too long. These deposits can cause the
passive layer to break down and rust your stainless steel.
All deposits left from food prep or service should be removed
as soon as possible.
3. Chlorides are present in table salt, food, and water. Household
and industrial cleaners are the worst type of chlorides
to use.
RECOMMENDED CLEANERS FOR CERTAIN
SITUATIONS / ENVIRONMENTS OF STAINLESS
STEEL
A. Soap, ammonia and detergent medallion applied with a cloth or
sponge can be used for routine cleaning.
B. Arcal 20, Lac-O-Nu Ecoshine applied provides barrier film for
fingerprints and smears.
C. Cameo, Talc, Zud First Impression is applied by rubbing in
the direction of the polished lines for stubborn stains and
discoloring.
D. Easy-off and De-Grease It oven aid are excellent for removals
on all finishes for grease-fatty acids, blood and burnt-on foods.
E. Any good commercial detergent can be applied with a sponge
or cloth to remove grease and oil.
F. Benefit, Super Sheen, Sheila Shine are good for restoration /
passivation.
NOTE:
The use of stainless steel cleaners or other such solvents is
not recommended on plastic parts. Warm soap and water will suffice.
8 STEPS THAT CAN HELP PREVENT RUST ON
STAINLESS STEEL:
1.
USING THE CORRECT CLEANING TOOLS
Use non-abrasive tools when cleaning your stainless steel
products. The stainless steel’s passive layer will not be harmed
by soft cloths and plastic scouring pads. Step 2 tells you how to
find the polishing marks.
2.
CLEANING ALONG THE POLISH LINES
Polishing lines or “grain” are visible on some stainless steels.
Always scrub parallel to visible lines on some stainless steels.
Use a plastic scouring pad or soft cloth when you cannot see
the grain.
3.
USE ALKALINE, ALKALINE CHLORINATED OR
NON-CHLORIDE CONTAINING CLEANERS
While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the
industry is providing an ever increasing choice of non-chloride
cleaners. If you are not sure of your cleaner’s chloride content
contact your cleaner supplier. If they tell you that your present
cleaner contains chlorides, ask if they have an alternative. Avoid
cleaners containing quaternary salts as they can attack stainless
steel, causing pitting and rusting.
4.
WATER TREATMENT
To reduce deposits, soften the hard water when possible.
Installation of certain filters can remove corrosive and distasteful
elements. Salts in a properly maintained water softener can be
to your advantage. Contact a treatment specialist if you are not
sure of the proper water treatment.
5.
MAINTAINING THE CLEANLINESS OF YOUR
FOOD EQUIPMENT
Use cleaners at the recommended strength (alkaline chlorinated
or non-chloride). Avoid build-up of hard stains by cleaning
frequently. When boiling water with your stainless steel
equipment, the single most likely cause of damage is chlorides in
the water. Heating any cleaners containing chlorides will have
the same damaging effects.
6.
RINSE
When using chlorinated cleaners you must rinse and wipe dry
immediately. It is better to wipe standing cleaning agents and
water as soon as possible. Allow the stainless steel equipment
to air dry. Oxygen helps maintain the passivity film on stainless
steel.
7.
HYDROCHLORIC ACID (MURIATIC ACID)
SHOULD NEVER BE USED ON STAINLESS STEEL
8.
REGULARLY RESTORE/PASSIVATE STAINLESS
STEEL
