T
ROUBLESHOOTING
W
ENDY
’
S
G
AS
R
ANGE
P
AGE
32
O
WNER
’
S
M
ANUAL
1195747
T
R
O
U
B
L
E
S
H
O
O
T
IN
G
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE (continued)
Symptom
Possible Cause
Check or Replace
Temperature probe not working.
Resistance across temperature probe leads at room temperature (70°F,
(21°C) should be approximately 1096 ohms.
Temperature control not calling for heat.
When heat is required, there should be continuity between terminals 6
and 7 on temperature control.
Undersized gas supply line.
Oven requires 1" ID gas line.
Low gas pressure.
Oven requires 6" (152mm) manifold water column pressure for natural
gas, 10
"
(254mm) for propane.
Inadequate or improper ventilation.
Check ventilation hood. Verify draw and make up air adjustment.
Oven will not hold
correct temperature.
Out of calibration.
Calibrate according to procedure described on page 24.
No power to gas valve.
Check for 120V from ignition box to gas valve.
Faulty main gas solenoid.
Replace gas valve.
Faulty ignition module.
Replace ignition module.
Manual shutoff valve closed.
Open all shut-off valves.
Oven ignitor glows red
but burners do not
come on when
thermostat calls for heat
(heat-on light is on).
Ignitor not in front of rear end of burner.
Re-position ignitor to be in front of rear end of burner.
No power to ignitor.
Check that voltage from ignitor module to ignitor is 24V. Ignitor draws
approximately 3.35 amps at start as it heats up resistance goes down.
Gas valve opens approximately 1.8 amps.
Ignitor broken or cracked.
Should read continuity between leads on ignitor.
No power to ignition module.
Should be 120V from temp control to ignition module.
Check blower motor. Motor should turn
when POWER switch is turned on and
oven doors are closed.
Motor has centrifugal switch. Motor must be turning before ignition circuit
is energized. Power for motor comes through switch. Check switch.
Temperature control does not call for
heat.
Must read continuity between 6 and 7 on temperature control when
calling for heat.
Oven ignitor does not
glow red.
No power out of POWER switch.
Check that unit power cord is plugged into power supply. Check switch
for continuity when switch is closed.
Burners not aligned.
Check burner carry over wings for proper mating.
Burner and orifice out of alignment.
Orifice must inject gas down center of burner.
Gas pressure too low.
Oven requires 6" (152mm) manifold water column pressure for natural
gas, 10
"
(254mm) for propane.
First oven burner next
to ignitor lights, but
flame will not carry
across to other oven
burners.
Burner orifices clogged.
Make sure burner orifices are clear.
Bad flame sensor.
Check in series on micro amps. Minimum is 0.75 amps, no maximum.
Oven burners light but
go out within a few
seconds. (Ignitor will
glow approximately 4
seconds. If burner does
not ignite, ignition
module will try 3 times
and then lock out.)
Bad gas valve.
Check gas valve.
No incoming electric power.
Check incoming power.
Loose wire connections.
Check wire connections.
Bad switch.
Check FAN MODE switch.
Motor bad.
If power is being supplied but motor will not turn, replace motor.
Blower motor will not
come on.
Shut down switch.
All power comes through shut down switch. Check for continuity.
