.
77. Remove the engine from the mount.
Trim and sand the fairing to a smooth
shape. Drill a 1/4" drain hole in the
bottom of the fairing. This drain hole
should be centered left and right and
immediately in front of the firewall (P-2).
Remove the motor mount from the
firewall.
The firewall and exposed wood inside the fairing should be painted and sealed with a fuel proof paint such as Sig Butyrate
Dope or epoxy.
Test fit the motor pylon assembly to the wing. The supports should be a tight fit into the slot in the wing. Drill a 1/16" hole
through the wing to allow the throttle pushrod housing to pass through. Now remove the pylon parts and set them aside
until it is time to cover the model.
78.
Just before joining the wings, you cut
away a section of W-10. Take one of
the servos and set it on the bottom of
the wing. Center it fore and aft over the
cut out section of W-10. The servo
should be centered left and right. Use a
pen to mark around the base of the
servo as shown. Remove the servo and
use your hobby knife to remove the
balsa sheet on the bottom to open up
the aileron servo well.
Test fit the servo in the opening. There should be about 1/16" clearance between the servo case and the lower wing skin.
BUILDING THE FLOATS
79.
Lay the parts T-4 over the drawing on
the plan. Mark both fore and aft and left
and right centerlines on these parts as
shown. Mark fore and aft and left and
right centerlines on the bottom of the
wing.
80.
Place the T-4 parts on the bottom of the
wing. Align the centerlines on the T-4’s
with the marks on the wing and tape T-4
securely to the bottom of the wing. Use
a 5/32" drill bit to drill down through the
wing and through T-4. Mark the T-4
parts "left" or "right". Install the 8-32
blind nuts into the T-4’s and test fit them
by bolting them to the wing.
Make sure that the centerlines stay
aligned while drilling the holes.
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