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26. Sand to exact shape with the sanding block. A pencil line drawn down the center of the leading edge from root to tip will
help get the shape true all along the wing.
NOTE: If you are using retracts, skip Steps 27 and 28.
27.
a. Epoxy glue the anchor block to the grooved block.
b. Cut out the balsa sheeting above the landing gear block slots in the foam core. The slots may be located by pressing
on the sheeting or by use of the waste block from the foam core. Cut the holes in the sheeting out undersize at first
so that the opening can be trimmed down carefully for an exact fit around the landing gear blocks.
c. Excavate the foam out of the pre-cut cavity to accomodate the anchor block. The best way to cut foam is with a
brand new, sharp modeling knife whittling blade. Or you can heat an old blade in a flame and hot cut the hole.
d. Epoxy glue the landing gear blocks into the wing. Should there be any areas in the cavities which do not fit snugly
against the blocks, fill these voids with a mixture of epoxy glue and scrap foam which has been crumbled into bits.
28.
Position the landing gear and drill a 5/32" diameter hole into the gear block and
anchor block. CAREFUL! It is easy to slip and go clear through the wing. (Put a
collar of tape on the bit as a guide.) Trim the edge of the hole so that the radius of
the wire at the bend will fit down into it. The gear should fit into the block snugly,
but not so tightly that it will jam in the block. You may want to remove it later for
straightening after a hard landing. Place a nylon landing gear strap held on by
NO.2 screws across the gear at each end to retain the gear in the groove.
29.
The angle already cut into the ends of the foam wing halves sets an approximately
correct dihedral angle. To check it, set up the wing halves as shown in the drawing
on the plan. Sand the wing ends (Photo 29) as required to make the center joint fit
correctly together. Glue the halves together with Sig Epoxy Glue or Sig Kwik-Set
Glue. Use plenty of glue where the balsa sheeting meets so that the joint between
the two halves is completely filled. Be certain that the leading and trailing edges
are lined up exactly so that no twist between the two halves is built into the wing.
Mark center lines on the ends of each panel before joining and match the lines
when joining. If you have the wing sitting on a true, flat surface, a further check on
twist can be made by putting center marks on the tips also and measuring from
them to the table as a second reference.
30.
Glue the wing tip block in place. If you wish to save weight, tack glue it on so it can be removed for hollowing.
31.
Carve the tip block to contour. (Seen from TE side).
32.
Hollow the tip with a router.
33.
Cut out the inset holes in the top wing sheeting for the 1/16"x2-1/4"x2-1/4" plywood tabs called PW.