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82. Continue forward gluing F-4.
83.
Add F-3.
84.
Prepare F-2 in advance, using the pattern, with dowel holes drilled and doubler installed. For fixed gear airplanes, cut out
an access hole to the nose for inserting the battery if balancing requires this.
85.
Unpin the fuselage from the board and tilt it forward on the front portion between F-3 and the firewall. Glue F-2 between the
sides. Since the front is stiffer and harder to bend, we switched to tack gluing temporary cross pieces to hold the sides in
place during this operation.
86.
Remove the sides from the board and glue the F-l firewall assembly in place. Cover the blind nut holes with tape to keep
glue out.
87.
Fit F-6 between the sides and glue it in place. Since it will key the front of the stabilizer, make certain that the top of F-6
lines up with the printed edge lines on the fuselage sides.
88.
Cut FTB from 1/4"x5/8" trailing edge
scrap. Add FTB just to the rear of F-4.
The edges of FTB must be beveled to fit
against the triangular stock.
89.
Complete the bottom planking up to the
rear of the wing opening.
90.
Glue the previously cut triangular stock
to the firewall.
91.
Glue the tank florr into the fuselage but
for retracts, do not glue the floor in
permanently until the nose gear unit is
fitted. Read the suggestions on the
plans.
HINT: We put a drill bit of the same
diameter as the inside of the tubing
into the end of the tube and used it
as a handle for bending. Back it out
a small amount at a time, adding a
bit to the bend each time you move
out. The result is the nice kinkless
bend seen in the picture.
92.
Cut a notch in F-2 to pass the tank
bubble.