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129.
Shape the elevator stock in the same manner as previously shown for the aileron
stock.
We are asked why so many parts are
used for the sheet tail when it would
be easier to make it with a single grain
direction. The reason is to provide a
stiffer and more warp·resistant tail.
The different grain direction of the
parts makes the finished surface
stronger. It only takes a few minutes
longer to glue the parts together and it
is worth it.
130.
Cut out the tail parts. Fit them together using the sanding block. Glue and pin
them down on wax paper. (R·2 is cut from 5/16"x2"x12" sheet. R-1 is glued in
last.. Not shown in the pictures.)
131.
Sand off the printed lines and round the leading edge of the fin. Properly sanded, the fin will be nearer 1/4" than 5/16" thick.
132.
Carve and sand the rudder to the cross-section shown above.
Put the wing on the fuselage and check to see if the stabilizer lines up with it when pinned in place on the fuselage. Make
sure the stabilizer saddle in the fuselage does not prevent the 1/4" sq. main frame keying gaps from sitting down firmly on
the fuselage. Sand the saddle down if it does. If any modifications must be made for side-to-side alignment, be careful not
to change the incidence of the tail by disturbing the relationship between the top of F-6 and the back of the fuselage sides.
This same caution goes for any changes necessary in the wing saddle necessary to line up the wing.
133.
Draw guide lines for the fin.
134.
a. Fit the fin and rudder to the fuselage.
b. Make certain the rudder has enough clearance so as not to rub on the stabilizer at full movement of the controls.
c. Cut a slot just in front of the stab to pass the rudder pushrod.
If desired, you can add a nylon pushrod guide (not furnished). The elevator pushrod exits through the openings in the
fuselage rear. Open it up as required to pass the pushrod. The pushrod wire may be bent slightly if it tends to rub on the
fuselage.