
.
e. Remove the cowling from the fuselage. Open up the four holes in the cowling to
allow the mounting screws to pass cleanly through the plastic (a #45 .082" drill bit
is perfect).
f.
On the fuselage, run the mounting screws in and back out of the holes a couple
times to create good threads in the wood. Note: If the screws ever get to loose in
the wood, take the screws out and place a small drop of Thin CA glue in each
hole. Let dry thoroughly. Then run the mounting screws in and out a few times
again. The CA hardens the threads in the wood, making them tough and durable
enough to hold up to dozens of cowl removals and installations.
83.
A Nylon Landing Gear Clip and #2 x 3/8" Sheet Metal Screw are provided to
make a simple latch to hold the Battery Hatch in place. Use the screw to mount
the clip near the front edge of the LG-1 landing gear plate. Half the clip should be
mounted on LG-1 and the other half overhangs and captures the Hatch. There is
already a small pilot hole in LG-1 for the screw - look closely for an indication of
the hole underneath the covering material - if you have trouble finding it, you can
stick a pin down through the hole from the inside. Assemble as shown, leaving
the screw loose enough that you can rotate the clip out of the way with your
fingers when you want to take off the Hatch.
84.
Remove the covering material over the rearmost hole in the fuselage bottom in
front of the tailwheel, to allow the cooling air that is going into the front of the
cowling a place to exit the fuselage. This will help keep your motor, battery, ESC,
and radio equipment running cool.
System Tests
85.
The completed radio and motor systems can now be powered up and tested for
proper operation.
a.
Make sure your transmitter aileron, elevator, and rudder trim levers are in neutral position, and that the throttle stick is in
the full "low throttle" position. Then turn on your transmitter.
b.
Install a charged battery pack inside the fuselage. Making very sure of the correct polarity of the connectors, plug the
battery pack into the ESC.
86.
The elevator and rudder servos should now be working.
a.
Move the transmitter sticks and check for correct direction of servo movement. Use the servo-reversing feature of your
transmitter, if needed, to make the servos move in the correct direction.
b.
If necessary reposition the servo output arms on the elevator and rudder servos as close to 90O to the servo case as
possible. Be sure to reinstall the output arm retaining screws after making the adjustment.
c.
With the radio still on and the servo arms squared up, note the exact positions of the elevator and rudder. Adjust the RC
Links if necessary to get the control surfaces properly centered.
87.
Set the wing in place on the fuselage, plugging the aileron servo chords into the Y-harness in the fuselage.
a.
Move the transmitter aileron stick and check for correct direction of movement. Use the servo-reversing feature of your
transmitter, if needed, to make the ailerons move in the correct direction.
b.
If necessary reposition the output arms on the aileron servos as close to 90 deg. to the servo case as possible. Be sure to
reinstall the output arm retaining screws after making the adjustment.
c.
With the radio still on and the servo arms squared up, note the exact positions of the ailerons. Adjust the RC Links if
necessary to get the ailerons properly centered.
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