.
78a. Mount your motor on the firewall with appropriate screws. Be sure to locate the
centerline of your motor with the thrust line.
b.
The motor wires can be fed back through any of the holes in the firewall -
whichever one is most convenient for your motor configuration. Leave all of the
holes in the firewall open. They provide cooling air to the battery pack.
79.
Connect your ESC to the motor wires, being very careful to get the polarity correct (red to red, black to black). Also plug
the ESC into the receiver. Stuff the bulk of the ESC into the space above the battery compartment. The ESC does not
need to be fastened down, it can simply float free in the nose. DO NOT wrap the ESC in foam or plastic. It must be left fully
exposed to allow it to stay cool.
80.
When you are ready to fly, the battery pack is inserted through the bottom opening of the fuselage. We recommend that
you use Velcro® to secure your Battery Pack to the BT battery tray. The use of Velcro® makes the battery pack easy to
remove for re-charging between flights.
SAFETY WARNING:
It is very important that you always remain aware of the position of the throttle stick on your
transmitter whenever there is a battery plugged into the airborne system. The motor/geardrive unit used in this model is
powerful enough to cause damage to people or property if it is activated prematurely, accidentally, or unexpectedly. With
an electric airplane, we recommended that you get in the habit of always keeping the throttle stick in the "low throttle"
position, even when the transmitter is in storage. Be sure to recheck the throttle stick position before plugging in the
airborne battery pack, and also before turning on the airborne on/off switch. Under no circumstances should you hold
this model by the nose when the battery is plugged in or the radio system is turned on. Never plug in your flight battery
until you are on the flight line, ready to fly.
81.
Open up the front of the Cowling. A
Dremel® tool works great for this. If you
don't have one, another good method is
to first drill a series of 1/4" dia. holes
near the perimeter of the area to be cut
out. Then cut between the holes with a
#11 hobby knife. Finish trimming with
the knife, and then sand the edge
smooth.
82a.
The Cowling is ABS plastic and can be painted with any common modeling paint - dope, enamel, or epoxy.
b.
Test fit the Cowling over the motor and onto the fuselage. Once you can get the cowling in proper position, mount your
spinner backplate and propeller on the prop shaft. Check to see that you have a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the back of the
spinner backplate and the front of the cowling (we use a little larger gap than on a glow engine airplane, to allow a little
more cooling air to the inside of the cowling). Adjust the location of the cowling, making sure that the spinner backplate is
centered at the front and that the back edges of the cowl are tight against the fuselage. Use masking tape to hold the
cowling securely in position on the fuselage.
c.
Four #2 x3/8" Sheet Metal Screws are provided for fastening the cowling to the
fuselage. Use two screws on each side - see plan for locations. Mark the screw
locations on the cowling. The idea is for the cowl mounting screws to go into the
center of the edge of the F-1A/F-1B firewall.
d.
Drill a 1/16" dia. pilot hole thru the cowling and into the fuselage at each screw
location. Drill as straight as possible. As you finish drilling each hole, thread a
mounting screw into the pilot hole. When finished, remove the tape that was
holding the cowl.
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