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13
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PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REASON/SOLUTION
Ammeter reads less than
selected charge rate when
charging a discharged
battery
Extension cord is too long or
wire gauge is too small.
Weak cell or sulfated plate in
battery.
Battery is only partially
discharged.
Use a shorter or heavier
gauge extension cord.
A sulfated battery will
eventually take a normal
charge if left connected. If the
battery will not take a charge,
have it checked.
Continue to charge the
battery.
The charger is making an
audible clicking sound.
Circuit breaker is cycling.
Battery is defective.
Shorted battery cables or
clips.
Severely discharged battery,
but otherwise it is a good
battery.
Reverse connections at
battery.
The settings may be wrong.
Check the charger settings.
Have the battery checked.
Circuit breaker cycles when
current draw is too high.
Check for shorted cables or
clips and replace if necessary.
The battery may not want to
accept a charge due to a run-
down state. Allow charging to
continue until battery has a
chance to recover sufficiently
to take a charge. If more than
20 minutes, stop charging and
have the battery checked.
Shut the charger off and
correct the lead connections.
Charger makes a loud buzz
or hum.
Transformer laminations
vibrate (buzz).
Shorted Diode Assembly or
Output Rectifier Assembly
(hum).
No problem, this is a normal
condition.
Have charger checked by a
qualified technician.
Short or no start cycle when
cranking engine.
Drawing more than the
engine start rate
Failure to wait 3 minutes (180
seconds) between cranks.
Clips are not making a good
connection.
AC cord and/or extension
cord is loose.
No power at receptacle.
Crank time varies with the
amount of current drawn. If
cranking draws more than the
engine start rate, crank time
may be less than 3 seconds.
Wait 3 minutes of rest time
before the next crank.
Check for poor connection at
battery and frame.
Check power cord and
extension cord for loose fitting
plug.
Check for open fuse or circuit
breaker supplying A.C. outlet.
