Ryobi RCS3845, Оригинальное руководство пользователя

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6
■ Felling back cut
See page 19 - 20.
Make the felling back cut at least 5 cm. / 2 in. higher
than the horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling back
cut parallel to the horizontal notching cut. Make the
felling back cut so enough wood is left to act as a hinge.
The hinge wood keeps the tree from twisting and falling
in the wrong direction. Do not cut through the hinge.
As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should
begin to fall. If there is any chance that the tree may
not fall in desired direction or it may rock back and
bind the saw chain, stop cutting before the felling back
cut is complete and use wedges of wood, plastic or
aluminium to open the cut and drop the tree along the
desired line of fall.
When the tree begins to fall, remove the chainsaw
from the cut, stop the engine, put the chainsaw down,
and use the retreat path planned. Be alert for falling
overhead limbs and watch your footing.
Removing buttress roots
See page 20.
A buttress root is a large root extending from the trunk of
the tree above the ground. Remove large buttress roots
prior to felling. Make the horizontal cut into the buttress
first, followed by the vertical cut. Remove the resulting
loose section from the work area. Follow the correct tree
felling procedure after you have removed the large buttress
roots.
Push and pull
See page 21.
The reaction force is always opposite to the direction the
chain is moving. Therefore, the operator must be ready to
control the tendency for the product to pull away (forward
motion) when cutting on the bottom edge of the bar. Always
engage firmly the bumper spike to limit such movement.
The product can be pushed backwards (towards the
operator) when cutting along the top edge. To avoid this
make sure the chain is not jammed when cutting along the
top edge.
Saw jammed in the cut
Stop the chainsaw and make it safe. Do not try to force the
chain and bar out of the cut as this is likely to break the
chain, which may swing back and strike the operator. This
situation normally occurs because the wood is incorrectly
supported which forces the cut to close under compression,
thereby pinching the blade. If adjusting the support does
not release the bar and chain, use wooden wedges or a
lever to open the cut and release the saw. Never try to start
the chainsaw when the guide bar is already in a cut or kerf.
Skating / Bouncing
When the chainsaw fails to dig in during a cut, the guide
bar can begin hopping or dangerously skidding along the
surface of the log or branch, possibly resulting in the loss
of control of the chainsaw. To prevent or reduce skating or
bouncing, always use the saw with both hands. Make sure
the saw chain establishes a groove for cutting.
Never cut small, flexible branches or brushes with your
chainsaw. Their size and flexibility can easily cause the
saw to bounce towards you or bind up with enough force
to cause a kickback. The best tool for that kind of work is
a hand saw, pruning shears, an axe or other appropriate
hand tools.
Bucking a log
See page 21.
Bucking is cutting a log into lengths. It is important to
make sure your footing is firm and your weight is evenly
distributed on both feet. When possible, the log should be
raised and supported by the use of limbs, logs or chocks.
Follow the simple directions for easy cutting. When the log
is supported along its entire length, it is cut from the top
(overbuck).
When the log is supported on one end, cut 1/3 the diameter
from the underside (underbuck). Then make the finished
cut by overbucking to meet the first cut.
When the log is supported on both ends, cut 1/3 the
diameter from the top (overbuck). Then make the finished
cut by underbucking the lower 2/3 to meet the first cut.
When bucking on a slope, always stand on the uphill side of
the log. To maintain control when “cutting through”, release
the cutting pressure near the end of the cut without relaxing
your grip on the chainsaw handles. Don’t let the chain
contact the ground. After completing the cut, wait for the
saw chain to stop before you move the chainsaw. Always
stop the engine before moving from tree to tree.
Limbing a tree
See page 22.
Limbing is removing the branches from a fallen tree. When
limbing leave larger lower limbs to support the log off the
ground. Remove the small limbs in one cut. Branches
under tension should be cut from the bottom up to avoid
binding the product.
Springpoles
See page 22.
A springpole is any log, branch, rooted stump, or sapling
which is bent under tension by other wood so that it springs
back if the wood holding it is cut or removed.
On a fallen tree, a rooted stump has a high potential of
springing back to the upright position during the bucking
cut to separate the log from the stump. Watch out for
springpoles—they are dangerous. Do not attempt to cut
bent branches or stumps which are under tension unless
you are professionally trained and competent to do so.
TRANSPORTATION AND STORAGE
■ Stop the engine and engage the chain brake. Allow the
product to cool down before storing or transporting.
■ Clean all foreign material from the product.
■ Drain all fuel from tank into a container approved for
petrol. Remember to properly replace and tighten the
fuel mix cap.
■ Run the engine until it stops. This will remove all fuel-
lubricant mix that could become stale and leave varnish
and gum in the fuel system.
■ Drain all bar and chain lubricant from tank into a
container approved for lubricant. Remember to properly