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Cleaning
- If carburetor needs cleaning, remove choke assembly and fuel metering screw. Make sure all the parts come out with the
fuel metering screw, including the spring and the tiny metal washer and o-ring. Use carburetor cleaner and/or compressed air to flush
out all air and fuel jets and passages. Wear safety glasses as air, cleaner or debris can unexpectedly shoot out of air or fuel passages
in various directions causing eye injury! Check to see all passages are open by noting flow of cleaner through them. Do not spray
carburetor cleaner into motor, remove carburetor for cleaning if required. Make sure float bowl is free of debris. Never use wire or
pointed objects to clean jets or carburetor passages as they will be damaged.
Reducer
- The X1 model uses a Dell’Orto 19mm carburetor with an aluminum reducer in the outlet to comply with the AMA 14mm
restriction requirement. X3 and X5 models use a 21mm carburetor which also may have a sleeve installed. If AMA compliance is
not needed, the spacer can be removed for some additional power. Jetting will probably need to be richened to compensate. To
remove spacer, remove carburetor from motorcycle and remove slide assembly. Holding carburetor firmly, use a long punch and a
hammer to drive the spacer out of the carburetor outlet. Take care not to strike carburetor with hammer or gouge carburetor body.
Clean any debris thoroughly and reassemble carburetor.
Assembly -
Make sure bowl gasket is not torn or damaged and that float pin is centered when installing bowl. Snug 4 bowl screws
evenly, do not overtighten! Install slide, making sure groove in slide aligns with pin in carburetor body and the needle slides into its
hole for the needle jet. Make sure gasket is in place when securing top cover and make sure top cover is in the proper position. Do
not over-tighten cover screws. Rotate carburetor to vertical position and tighten inlet and outlet clamps. Make sure vent hoses are
routed properly and not kinked or plugged with dirt. Clean or replace vent hoses as required for proper operation. Check to make
sure the fuel valve is not plugged with dirt.
19. Suspension & chassis
Tires
- Check tire pressures daily, adjust to riding style and terrain as needed. Run 1-2 lbs less pressure for soft conditions such as
sand, add 1-2 lbs for hard terrain and aggressive riders. Minimum recommended tire pressure is 18 psi on hard terrain to avoid tire
or wheel damage. Replace tires when knobs begin to appear rounded. The rear tire can be reversed to yield some additional life by
bringing the sharp backsides of the knobs into service if the knobs are not too badly worn.
Changing tire
- To change tire, remove wheel from motorcycle. Support the wheel on a round barrel or similar stand if possible.
Remove valve core from valve stem to deflate tube. Squeeze tire all around rim to unmount tire bead from wheel. The tire must be
squeezed together to fit into the center portion of rim so the tire will be loose enough to pry over the edge of the rim. Squeezing tire
into rim on one side, insert a tire iron into tire on the opposite side. Do not insert tire iron any further than needed. Push tire iron just
slightly more than 90° towards the center of the rim to hold tire in place. Make sure tube is not near head of tire iron, push it further
into tire with a blunt object if needed. Do not push the tire irons much more than 90° towards the center of rim or pinching the tube
is very likely. See photo III-50. Have a helper hold first iron in place, then insert a 2
nd
tire iron next to the first and push the tire iron
just over 90° to pry a section of bead over rim. Insert a 3
rd
tire iron next to the 2nd one, then remove the 2
nd
one when the 3
rd
one has
pried the bead over the rim. Squeeze the tire frequently into the center portion of the rim to help keep it loose. Continue in this fash-
ion until all the tire bead is over the rim. Once the first side of the tire is loose, remove the inner tube carefully, being careful not to
snag it on the rear sprocket if changing the rear tire. Check the tube for chafing, puncture or damage. Patch or replace as needed.
To change the tire, use the tire irons to remove the 2
nd
side of the tire similar to the 1
st
side. Run a rag around the inside of the rim
to remove any dirt and check for sharp edges. Make sure none of the spoke nipples are loose and protruding into the tube. Most rac-
ers will wrap several layers of duct tape or electrical tape around the inside of
the rim to help prevent flats. If you use tape, make sure it is just in the curved
center portion of the wheel or it will interfere with the tire seating on the rim.
Duct tape is too wide and will have to be torn into narrower strips. Make sure to
make a hole in the tape for the valve stem to pass through.
Before installing the new tire, make sure no staples or other debris are inside
tire. Let tire sit in sun to warm up which will make it more pliable and easier to
install. Lubricate tire bead with soapy water to ease installation and bead seating.
Do not use oils or silicone as they won’t dry and will cause the tire to slip on the
rim. If tire slippage has been a problem, the inside of the rim can be roughened
with a rough grit sanding disc to improve tire grip on rim.
Push one side of the tire’s bead into the center portion of the rim. Use your
fingers to work your way around the tire, pushing the bead into the wheel. Use a
screwing motion to install as much of the bead onto the rim as possible, then use
tire irons to complete installing the 1
st
bead. Install the tube. Make sure the tube
is not bunched up or twisted and try any keep it away from the uninstalled side
of the tire. Loosely install the valve stem nut to prevent the stem from being
pulled into the tire as you work. Use your fingers to work the tire over the rim as
far around the wheel as you can. Before you finish the remaining section of tire,
Do not pull tire iron too far to reduce chance
of pinching tube
III
III
.50
.50
