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properly in place and install 11 case bolts.
Bolts can be gradually tightened in a criss
cross pattern to bring cases fully together.
Tighten case bolts to 10 ft/lbs. Using a brass
hammer, tap gently on both ends of crankshaft
to help center crankshaft in cases. Crankshaft
should spin freely at this point. Tap gently on
transmission mainshaft and countershaft, make
sure they turn smoothly without binding. If the
driven gear was removed, replace it using an
impact wrench if available. Use red threadlock-
er on nut. If impact wrench is not available, a
metal dowel can be inserted through hole in
gear into recess in case to prevent gear from
turning while nut is torqued to 43 ft/lbs.
Rotate driven gear and make sure counter-
shaft and water pump impeller turn smoothly.
Install new countershaft seal. See following
section to install crankshaft seals. Install stator
mounting plate using medium strength threadlocker on the bolts, and torque to
50 inch/lbs. Be careful not to over-tighten and strip bolts! Install stator assem-
bly loosely, lining up alignment marks made previously, then install flywheel
and torque nut to 42-45 ft/lbs. The ignition timing will need to be checked, and
the stator centered and tightened when the cylinder, piston and head have been
installed. See section III-20 for procedure. Install clutch assembly and clutch
cover, and install engine into frame. Replace other parts in reverse order.
Crankshaft seals -
Seals should be replaced every time cases are split. Also, if
motor develops an air leak or seems to be burning oil, replace crankshaft seals.
If seals need to be removed without splitting cases, a removal tool can be made
by bending a screwdriver tip into a hook. Make sure there are no sharp edges
to scratch the crankshaft. Gently work the tip of the hook under the seal lips,
then pull the shaft of the tool outward to rotate the hook under seal. Jerk handle
firmly to remove seal. See photo III-28.
To install seals, begin by lubricating both sides of the crankshaft lightly with grease where the seals will go.
Lubricate the lips of the seals with grease, then guide the first crank seal over the crankshaft and start into the
seal bore by hand. Make sure the lip of the seal is not rolled over before pushing the seal into the case. A blunt
punch may be used to gently force seal into position, work side to side a little at a time until the seal is flush with the case. Do not
push seal further in than flush. Repeat procedure on other side.
Waterpump -
The waterpump will need service if the impeller shaft is seized, does not turn freely, slips, or the shaft seal allows
coolant into the transmission oil. A quick check for function can be performed by putting the bike on a stand with the rear wheel off
the ground, removing the waterpump housing and turning the plastic impeller in a clockwise direction. Turning the impeller by hand
should be enough to rotate the rear wheel.
If the impeller turns but the rear wheel
doesn’t, either the impeller threads are
stripped or else one or both of the plastic
water pump drive gears are stripped inside
the transmission cases. Replacement of the
impeller, water pump cover or cover seal
can be done by removing the water pump
cover. Servicing the water pump shaft seal,
bearings or drive gears requires splitting the
engine cases.
To service water pump, remove engine
and split engine cases. Remove water pump
cover by removing 3 bolts using a 5mm
allen wrench. Remove impeller by twisting
counter clockwise. Remove water pump
gear by removing outside snap ring and
View of left side case.
Seal removal tool
short bolts
long
bolts
med. bolts
med.
bolt
med.
bolts
med. short bolt
water pump impeller
to remove
III
III
.26
.26
III
III
.28
.28
Water pump diagram
III
III
.27
.27
replace
replace
replace
III
III
.29
.29
