9
Mold Plate and Connecting Arm Rear View
Hopper Front View
Double Seal Spacer Plate
Back Drive
Connecting Arm
Mold Plate
Ring Pin
Retaining Rod
Guard Block
Thickness
Fraction Stamp
Retaining Rod
Location Hole
T-Knob
Double Seal
Spacer Plate
Changing Your Machine’s Mold Plate
Always disconnect the machine from its power source
before attempting to change or clean any of the machines component parts.
If the Mold plate is all the way into the machine, remove the T-Knob from the Back Drive by lifting the ring
pin and unthreading the knob. Pull the Mold Plate out from the back of the machine. If the Mold Plate is slightly
out of the machine and you prefer to remove it without removing the T-Knob, simply pull the ring pin out and
unhook the Connecting Arm from the T-Knob. Then slide the Mold Plate from the back of the machine.
When changing the Mold Plate always use the corresponding Double Seal Spacer Plate and Knock Out Cup.
The thickness fraction stamped on the Double Seal Spacer Plate should match the fraction stamped on the front
right corner of the Mold Plate. For example: if your Mold Plate is stamped “4F
½
” then the Double Seal Spacer
Plate should be stamped “1/2”. The Double Seal Spacer Plate is held in place by the Retaining Rod. The Retaining
Rod is secured by a spring into the Guard Block. Lift the Retaining Rod up and to the side so it does not protrude
into the Double Seal Spacer Plate. There is no need to remove the Retaining Rod from the Guard Block. After
putting the new Mold Plate and corresponding Double Seal Spacer Plate into the machine, lift the Retaining Rod
and let it go into the hole located on the front of the Double Seal Spacer Plate. Make Sure that the Double Seal
Spacer Plate is in the locked position and the O’Rings are facing up. Failure to do so may cause the Double Seal
Spacer Plate to move with the Mold Plate, and could damage the machine. Since no Double Seal Spacer Plate is
required when using a 3/4” Mold Plate, leave the Retaining Rod in the storage position.
This Side Up
