Old School Model Works Robin Hood 80, Руководство по монтажу

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Page 12 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 80 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Locate C3 from LP10. Sand
a bevel on the three front
edges as shown here. Place
C3 on your work surface
with the bevels visible as
shown.
Step 81 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Locate two C2s from LP1 and
C4 from LP10. These are used
to form the windscreen frame.
Glue one C2 to each side of
C3, making sure they are both
vertical and resting on their
back “feet”.
Then glue C4 into the top slots
on the C2 pieces, making sure it
is centered and firmly seated into the slots.
Step 82 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Cut the two frame pieces from
1/4” square balsa. Trim and
bevel the ends for a good, flush
fit, then glue into position.
When the glue has cured, remove
the completed assembly and trim
the rear “foot” sections from the
C2 pieces.
Step 83 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Locate C1 from LP3. It is
glued to the hatch assembly
as shown here.
To get the proper alignment
and positioning, the
windscreen assembly should
be centered and the back
edge of C3 should be up
against back edge of C1.
Step 84 - Fuselage Assembly (F2)
Locate F2 from LP3. Glue it to
the front of F3 to thicken up the
firewall. Use epoxy for this step
and be sure to firmly clamp this
piece in position while the glue
cures.
Although not shown in this
pre-production photo, there is
a circle cut into F2 that should
be positioned towards the top
of the fuselage when mounted
(matching the circle cut into F3).
Step 85 - Fuselage Assembly (F1)
Locate F1. It is the 1/4” piece of aircraft
ply, separate from the rest of the wood
pieces. Try as we might, there’s just no way
our laser could properly cut through this
thickness so, this piece is hand-cut and
more often than not, it will fit as designed.
However there are times where it might
require a little sanding to fit properly. After
sanding to fit, glue it to the front of F2 to complete the thickened
firewall. Use epoxy for this step and be sure to firmly clamp this
piece in position while the glue cures.
Step 86 - Fuselage Assembly (radial or in-line)
Now you have a choice to make. Do you
want your Robinhood 80 to have the look
of an in-line engine or a flattened off
firewall for a radial engine style?
If you want a radial engine look, then it is
time to remove the two plywood cheeks
from the fuselage sides and the 1/2”
square balsa that extends forward past
the firewall. This should be cut away and
sanded flat with the firewall.
If you’d rather have the in-line look, then
locate P1 from LP7.
It is glued so it is flush with the top edges
of the fuselage as shown here.
We recommend cutting a couple lengths
of leftover 3/16“ square balsa strips to
strengthen the joints between P1 and the
1/2” square strips.
Step 87 - Fuselage Assembly (P2/P3 support)
This is another step where it’s impossible
to laser cut alignment tabs and notches, so
you’ll need to measure and eyeball this.
You’ll need to cut and glue in a thin length
of 1/8” ply to make a lip used to locate a
part in the next step.
From LP4, cut away a length of plywood
that ‘s about 3/8” wide by 4 to 4-1/4” long.
This will be glued to the front
edge of the forward landing
gear block, 1/8” in from the
bottom surface.
Take a bit of time to make sure
this piece is glued in straight
as it could cause alignment
problems in the next step.
Step 88 - Fuselage Assembly (P2A/P2B)
Locate P2B from LP8 and P3A from
LP7.
These are glued together as shown to
form a single sheet.
TW1
TW1
FS4
FS4
F2 C1
DH2
DH2
P5 P3 P4
LP4
LP3
Use this
strip