Old School Model Works Robin Hood 80, Руководство по монтажу

Страница: 7 / 22

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
Step 29 - Wing Assembly (lower rear sub-spar)
Locate one 1/4” square balsa
stick. This is used as the lower
rear sub-spar. Using the same
technique you did the in past
steps, measure, cut and glue
this in position.
Be this strip is glued to each
rib and all of the sheer webs.
Step 30 - Wing Assembly (WH2)
Locate one of the WH2s
from LP10.
This will fit as shown - into
the notch in DH2, as well
as the notches in R2 and
R3.
Glue this in place, making
sure that the pre-cut hole
is closer to R3.
Step 31 - Wing Assembly (WH1)
Locate one of the WH1s
from LP10.
This will fit as shown - into
the notches in R2 and R3.
Glue this in place, making
sure that the pre-cut hole
is closer to R3.
Step 32 - Wing Assembly (bottom sheeting.)
Just as you did with the
top sheeting, it’s time to
sheet the bottom of the
wing to fill in the gaps
between R2 and R3.
Working on one section
at a time and when
satisfied with the fit, glue
each of these sheeting
pieces into position.
Step 33 - Wing Assembly (remove tabs)
Remove the tabs on each of the ribs. Rather than snapping them
off, use a hobby knife (or razor blade) to carefully cut them away to
preserve the airfoil shape of each rib. It’s better to not cut enough
off than cut too much, as the excess will be sanded away in the
next step.
Step 34 - Wing Assembly (sanding)
It’s time to sand the wing to the proper shape. Start with a coarser
grit (80-100) to round the leading edge, shape the trailing edge,
and round the edges of the wing tips. Take care not to remove too
much, too quickly - you can always take more off, but you can’t put
it back on!
On the trailing edge, it will require a bit more shaping.
Switch to a finer grit (150-200) to smooth
out the entire wing.
Step 35 - Wing Assembly (R1)
Locate 1 R1 from LP8 or
LP10. R1 is laminated to
R2 and the surrounding
sheeting, which is now
hopefully sanded smooth
and flat. Although C/A
glue can be used, we
recommend epoxy for
this step.
You should also have a couple of scrap lengths of 3/8” square
basswood stock that could be used as guides to locate R1. If you
do use those as shown here, be very careful not to glue these
pieces into the wing.
Step 36 - Wing Assembly (rear strut mount)
Locate two SS1 pieces from LP7
and one of the steel straps.
On the plans you’ll see the
location for the rear strut mount,
attached to the inner R7 rib.
The straps have 3 holes pre-
stamped into them and the
middle hole is closer to one side
than the other. The strap should
be positioned so the end with
the 2 closer holes is inside the wing, and the other end protruding
from the bottom wing’s surface by a 1/4” to 3/8”. It also should rest
flat against the sheer web and be up against the R7 rib.
Use a drop or two of C/A glue to tack it in position.
Now glue the SS1s in position as shown in the photo. Make sure
that one of the SS1s is flush with the bottom of the wing’s surface.
Once these are in position, mix up a little epoxy and flood the area
between the two SS1s to lock the strap in position.
Step 37 - Wing Assembly (rear strut mount)
After the epoxy has cured from
the previous step, locate two SS1
pieces from LP7 and another of
the steel straps.
On the plans you’ll see the
location for the front strut mount,
attached to the inner R7 rib.
Using the same technique as
before, tack the strap in place,
then glue the SS1s in position as
shown in the photo. Make sure
that one of the SS1s is flush with the bottom of the wing’s surface.
Once these are in position, mix up a little epoxy and flood the area
between the two SS1s to lock the strap in position.
Step 38 - Wing Assembly (panel complete)
This completes the assembly of the starboard wing panel. Now
remove the starboard wing plan from your board and attach the
Sand excess
trailing edge stock.