CB
Built Like A Tank With Laser Precision
Page
15
of 24
2. Extra pex fittings can be purchased from your local hardware or plumber.
The pex pipe connected to the bottom of the pump runs to the house and normally runs to
the heat exchanger installed in your furnace or a plate heat exchanger for a hydronic radiant
system. See page 20 for more information on hooking up a brazed-plate heat exchanger.
3. The pump comes already mounted directly to the boiler with a shut-off valve. If the pump ever
has to be changed, the water supply can be shut off so for easy replacement. It is highly
recommended that you purchase a 2
nd
pump as a spare for if your pump should ever fail as your
boiler cannot function without it. This will prevent downtime, loss of heat to your home and over-
heating of your boiler.
Please note! The pump that came with your boiler may not be the correct size for your installation.
Please consult your dealer for sizing as water flow is essential to the proper & efficient operation of your installation.
Add a valve to the return line at the boiler so if repair or service is needed on lines or equipment,
the water in the boiler can be isolated without having to be drained.
Note:
For larger homes, 1-¼ pipe may be needed for maximum BTU output. A 1-¼” pipe can carry up to 37% more BTUs due
to higher water flow. The fittings above would need to be changed to accommodate 1-¼” Pex. The Armstrong E9 pump
available from Nature’s Comfort has the ability to do this in a 1” pipe within distance & height limitations.
H. Adding Bypass Valves
Adding a bypass valve system at each heat exchanger is a good idea so that if there is a
potential problem such as a stopped up heat exchanger, it can be diagnosed & serviced easily
by the owner as well as being used for a summer bypass as explained on page 19 (Figure
shows 3-valve setup used for bypass and isolation).
I. Installing the Heat Exchanger in the Plenum
Note: It is recommended that you contact your local plumbing/heating contractor to supply
and install the heat exchanger unless you have the tools and experience required.
The heat exchanger must be installed below the evaporator coil if you have air conditioning.
This is required since the heat exchanger may freeze and crack when the air conditioner is
used. If it is not possible to place the heat exchanger between the furnace and the evaporator
coil, you must drain the heat exchanger before using the air conditioner. It is recommended
that a bypass system of valves be installed for servicing and draining the heat exchanger if
necessary. (Noted above)
The heat exchanger must be installed so that it is airtight. No air must be able to flow
around it or out of the ductwork. Use adhesive backed foam tape (used for insulating doors
and windows) around the water coil. Use foil tape to seal off the heat exchanger and the hole
you make.
Make sure the fittings for the supply and return lines are easy to get to once the heat
exchanger is installed.
You should be able to find a heat exchanger to fit most popular sizes of plenums. If you are
unable to your ductwork must be modified to accept the heat exchanger. This is best left to a
professional unless your ductwork is made up of fiberboard. In all cases wear proper protective
gear. (gloves, safety glasses, etcS)