Planking will require tapering fore and
aft from the top of the wale down to
the keel. Consequently, the hull below
the wale is divided into
Belts A
through
D
.
Morgan
had no lower edge to her
wales. They gradually tapered into the
planks, eliminating the step along the
hull found on other ships.
On Sheet 2, use a tick strip to mark the
top-of-wale location and belt seams on
each bulkhead. Transfer these points
with pencil to the model. Now, tem-
porarily tack 1/16” x 3/32” basswood
battens along the marks with lil pins.
Battens assure an accurate run of planks
by correcting any errors in drafting, tick
strip marking, or transferring. However,
remember that the wale line is a given
and must follow the plans.
When the battens are in place, visually
check their flow. Look at the model
from the side and from the bow and
stern. Do the battens have a pleasing,
smooth curve? Are they symmetrical?
Adjust the lower battens if necessary.
The plans show what they should look
like from the side and ends. When
everything seems fair, make sure the
belt seams are clearly visible. Remark
those that aren’t. Now, either remove
the temporary battens or leave them in
place until they interfere with
installing a plank.
Tapering Plank Edges:
As planking pro-
ceeds, the edges of a particular plank
may require tapering to butt flush
against the adjacent plank.
Properly machined planks have square
edges. Butting them together on a hull
may produce a small gap. Most are
sealed with glue or wood filler, or
caulked on a real ship. Plank edges are
often deliberately sloped to ensure they
butt against each other, while provid-
ing a sufficient gap for caulking. How
the plank runs determines whether its
top or bottom edge is tapered. Sometimes
both are. To create a perfectly smooth
hull without gaps, trim each plank edge
as it is fit. The decision to taper or rely on
filler is yours.
Planking the Counter and Transom:
Cover
the counter with 1/16” planks and tran-
som with 1/32” planks. How the counter
planks intersect with the hull planks can
be done several ways. On the real ship,
the joint is mitered (Figure 2-4). Add the
mouldings to the transom after the
planking is completed.
14
Fig. 2-4 Transom-Hull Plank Intersection Options
Counter plank
Joint mitered, or as option taper
only the hull plank when installed
Future hull plank
Section looking inboard
Plan view at sides
Hull plank
Miter joint
Counter or transom plank
Option
Fig. 2-5 Installing First 2 Strakes in Belt A
A
B
C
D
E
F
H
J
K
L
N
O
M
I
G
Fastener at each bulkhead
Butts staggered between 1st
and 2nd strake
Planksheer
Top of wale
Plank BHD D to H
L-S
K-S
H-L
G-K
G-C
H-D
D-S
C-S
S
S
Fig. 2-6 Installing the Fashion Piece at Stern
Fore and aft view
Side view
This lower section curves forward
and inboard–carve to shape