6. Installing the Transom
Framing
Follow the plans when carving the
counter block. Its bottom reflects the
counter curve, while its forward side
matches
Bulkhead O
. The aft side indi-
cates the slope and curvature of the tran-
som. At the center is a hole for the rud-
der stock. Glue the counter block to the
center keel and aft side of
Bulkhead O
.
Notch the counter block and add the
transom frame pieces. Later, the transom
will be planked on both sides. Figure 1-9
illustrates the transom framing.
7. Installing the Bow and
Stern Filler Blocks
Carve the blocks to the shape of the hull,
then mount them forward of
Bulkhead A
and aft of
Bulkhead O
. Their purpose is
to add support where the planks make a
severe curve. Although the planks still
need steam bending, they are not as like-
ly to break with the blocks in place. In
addition, the bow block provides a solid
base for inserting timberheads and
knightheads (Figure 1-10).
8. Covering the Mast Slots
Add the pieces shown on Sheet 2 to both
sides of the three mast slots in the center
keel. Cut them from scrap wood. Glue
securely, because access is impossible
once the deck is planked. Since the slots
are larger than the actual timbers, masts
can be wedged in the hole when stepped.
9. Installing the Waterway,
Planksheer, and
Bulwark Stanchions
Add the waterway along the deck edge.
Note that the waterway varies in thick-
ness and shape from bow to stern. At the
bow, it also goes from a thick piece into a
heavy ceiling. Follow the plans.
The planksheer goes on top of the water-
way. These laser-cut pieces have square
holes for the bulwark stanchions. Make
sure the planksheer is properly located.
At this point, it extends past the bulk-
heads. After the hull planking is installed,
the planksheer will protrude slightly
beyond that as well.
Next, add the bulwark stanchions. Get
their correct angle from the hull planking
layout on Sheet 2. Prior to gluing, clamp a
strip on top of the stanchions for align-
ment. When they are fair, secure the stan-
chions with a touch of cyano (Figure 1-11).
10. Installing the Knightheads
and Forward Timberheads
Make the knightheads and forward tim-
berheads. Install the timberheads in the
planksheer notches and the knightheads
in the forward filler block notches.
11. Installing the Main
Rail and Lashing Rail
Heavily curved main rail sections are
laser cut. Cut the other sections and
inboard lashing rail from stripwood.
Use pins or dowels to align and hold
them in place (Figure 1-12).
12. Installing the
Topgallant Rail
The topgallant rail rests upon a log rail
that sits on top of the main rail. The top-
gallant rail’s curved sections are laser
cut. Make the remaining sections from
stripwood. Use some pins or dowels to
locate and secure the rails (Figure 1-13).
Note: Knees at the stern connect the
main and topgallant side rails to the
rails across the transom. Since these
knees will eventually be inside the hur-
ricane house, they can be omitted.
11
Fig. 1-11 Using Batten to Align Bulwark Stanchions
Clamp temporary batten
Planksheer
Glue after all stanchions aligned
Waterway
Fig.1-12 Installing the Main Rail & Lashing Rail
Scarf joint
Main rail-stripwood
Laser cut section
Remove any glue squeeze-out
Lashing rail inboard
Pin and glue rail
(cut off heads)
Future plank location
Make sure overhang is correct.
must add planks later
Use one pin for both rails, or
install separately using two
pins. Cut off heads
Fig. 1-13 Installing the Topgallent & Log Rail
Topgallent rail
Log rail
Remove glue squeeze-out
